Hi. New member. Why didnt anyone tell me this...??

shorelined

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 6, 2013
16
Phoenix, AZ
Hello fellow pool-ees. I live in Phoenix and have been going to my local Checker Pool Supply for many yrs when needing pool care. Quite a long time actually. Since going with my parents as a kid.

I've been taking care of my own pool (25k IG, pebble) about 4yrs. I have always been told my pool's various levels are basically fine, but I need higher chlorine levels or shock (when green). So caring for our pool has been this: pool starts to look greenish, we dump in loads of trichlor granules, tabs, sometimes algaecide. Pool looks ok a few wks, then repeat cycle. Always keeping trichlor in float.

Recently the high temps have risen to consistently over 100F. And of course, my pool started looking green. I got trichlor and skill-it to deal with it, as pool store advised. It didnt help, so we put in MORE. Didnt help. I started thinking how over time we seem to put more and more chlorine in with lesser effect.

I got on line for answers and saw a post from Chem Geek describing what sounded like my situation. He wrote how high Cyanuric acid could make chlorine ineffective and how it climbs 5-7ppb per every 10 with tri- di- and cal-hypo, I think. I had NEVER heard of this and so had NO IDEA we were steadily raising the CYA with regular loads of trichlor used over these past 4yrs. I was getting upset.

So, I call the pool store and tell the guy whats up, and he says I need more shock probably. I ask, what about the CYA? Could it be too high? He says, well if its been the same water for 4yrs, it's prob sky high! Im wondering, if he knows this why werent we warned?! Nobody ever cautioned us to keep it in check with SO MUCH trichlor use. So I ask what to do, drain it? He says its too hot. We'll have to put in MORE shock, algaecide... maybe clarifier, til it works, and that theres been a lot of 'resistent' algae going around. By this time Im pretty angry.

We ended up having Leslies test the water and it showed this:
FC 4
CYA 130
TA 110
pH 7.6
TDS 1800
Phosphates 700

Right now the lows in Phoenix are around 80F. Is it possible I could drain it btwn 12am and 3am as much as possible. Then refill it btwn 3am and 6am - while sprayg the sides down to protect it from drying out? We already spent over $140 on shock, tabs, and skill-it, so I fear dumping in more (pool still green!!) will cost a fortune at the levels it needs with 130ppb CYA. HELP PLEASE.

The water is deep green now and I want to clear it up before algae spots are sticking to walls. Should I use phosphate remover? clarifier? (never tried)

Grateful

Shorelined



25k IG pebble pool, Pentair sand filter, Barracuda G3
 
Welcome to the forum. :lol: Well, google "pool stored" on this forum....It's what has happened to you.

The only way out is to stop EVER going into that store again, purchase one of the test kits we suggest, and start learning how to manage your own pool.

I can tell you, you will need a series of partial drain/refill steps but you can do literally none of this until you decide to manage your own pool.

Keep reading on the forum, you'll see a lot of success stories from people who were in the same boat as you are now.
 
Welcome! :wave:

You've been pool-stored.

Sad to say, you will continue to be pool-stored. unless you get your own test kit. That 130 CYA reading is bad, but there's a high probability that it's even higher than that. You think you're annoyed now? Wait until you replace half your water and the next time they test it, it comes back at 150. That sort of thing happens. Proof: inconsistency-in-readings-t61728.html

Phosphates, Nitrates, TDS: irrelevant.

You don't need floc or clarifier or any other snake oil. You need bleach or liquid pool shock. Same stuff, different concentrations. Tip: buy it at big box store or hardware store. A disinterested cashier will ring you up and you can leave without some smooth-talking pool store salesman promoting the latest snake oil.




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Welcome! Take their advice and get a recommended kit. I have the TF100 and love it. The only things I got at the pool store in the last two years was an o-ring and a new skimmer net. If you are able, get the speedstir too. It is awesome and makes testing easy breezy!
 
What they said, see my signature for the link to get the TF-100 test kit,

Simply put pool stores are in business to sell as many chemicals as possible, the more expensive the better while at the same time getting the customer to learn to tolerate the negative side effects. Some of them are better than others, some don't even know they are doing it as they get most of their knowlege from the chemical distributors. Think of them much like drug dealers, the more they can push on their users the better for the dealer, they don't care what it does to the users health, etc, as long as the user stays alive and keeps paying everything is good.
 
shorelined:

Welcome to TFP :wave:

Your story is a classic case of being "pool stored". The endless cycles of dumping chemicals in the pool followed by periodic drain & refills and the cycle repeats. That cycle sets up a constant revenue stream for the pool store but all it does for you is drain your wallet and mess up your pool.

Suggest putting the drain & refill on hold for the moment. Job 1 is getting one of the recommended test kits which are found here: Test Kit Comparison. TF-100 is the best value for the $. Please order one...today! This is the first step on the road to a sparkling pool.

While waiting for your kit, read the Pool School articles. I would start with the ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry which will give you an overview of pool water chemistry and what needs to be tested - all on one page. From there I would move on to Basic Pool Care Schedule, Chlorine CYA Chart, and Recommended Pool Chemicals. These articles will provide you with a good foundation from which you can continue on to the remaining Pool School articles which will then make more sense.

You will also want to familiarize yourself with the Pool Calculator. This is not an article, but rather a tool that you can use to determine the appropriate dosage based on your test results

When your kit arrives, run a full series of tests and trust those results over the pool store's and post the results on the forum. On a few occasions, I have tested this theory of the difference between my test results (using TF-100) and the pool store's. The test with the largest variance: CYA...every time. Pool store's results were always about twice what mine were.

If you find you need to replace water, a series of stepped drain & refills will likely work best while mitigating risks to your pool's surface from the heat. We can walk you through that.
 
Thanks to all for the welcome!! Wanted to get a quick reply to all of you before getting into more detail.

I knew it. 'Pool-stored'! It even has a name.

I was disheartened at first to have these suspicions that our 'good old' pool store has been steadily bs'ing us. The boyfriend was/is in disbelief. Told me I was making a big mistake and should follow the conventional course of action. (He will have to read your posts and then he'll see)

A few days ago, after that guy said the line about resistant algae going around, a little voice said, "boycott the pool store"! I read around ALL that night, and found this site and many of the charts and references kindly suggested above in your replies. The BF still had no confidence in me after telling him about what I was finding on line, and when I went to Walmart for several jugs of bleach at 2am, the boyfriend looked scared.

I feel on the verge of being empowered and like it. I will do more reading on how pool care works. Debating on the TF-100. Wondering if I need the quick cheapy 6-panel Walmart test w/CYA for now. Suppose I can go to Leslies for tests a few more times until the TF is delivered...

I am excited to have found a way out of what has become a misery. I used to LOVE my pool, but grew to hate it last yr. (even thought about filling it after the massive amt of chemicals used and expense its been)

Forgot to ask: Is there a place on the forum that reviews Barracuda replacement diaphragms? My original tore. Im seeing inexpensive "Heavy-duty" ones (vs original yellow life-time) with decent remarks but it's impossible to tell if theyre of good quality.

thanks

shorelined
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!! :wave:

Get the TF100 ... it will arrive faster than you think and you WILL be empowered :goodjob:

Really adding bleach at this point is just a bandaid on a severed jugular ... you should just start replacing water to lower the CYA and keep reading while waiting for the test kit to arrive.

We are happy you found us ;)
 
Don't debate....Don't go to the store for their testing.... Don't buy the cheaply

Trust in us
TF100 :) There's some videos in my sig to give you an idea on the testing. Service is amazing too. I know it sounds like more snake oil, but we'll back this one up.
 

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Get the test kit they all directed you to. Get the speed stirrer too. Any hesitation you have at the price will disappear the first time you use it. Totally worth every penny. No one here has ever posted they bought it and regretted it.
 
Shorelined,

Welcome to the forum. Listen to these guys and you will save a TON of money! I am lucky to have found them last year while building my pool. I have spent around $120 dollars total in 9 months of pool ownership on pool chemicals. I have NEVER had to shock my pool and having a SWCG helps with that. It has always been perfectly clear and my CC has never registered above .5. Thank goodness I found this site. Stick with it and follow their instructions and you won't regret it. I have this site set as my home page and read it every day.

Good luck.

Dave
 
Im waiting for my card to be able to order the test kit.

I need to order a Baracuda G3 replacement diaphragm (asap) for the first time. I see various generic ones with mixed reviews. Does this site have any reviews or advice on which are best.
 
Maybe this is redundant, but does anyone have any knowledge of the off-brand diaphragms. I have no cleaner system but to brush and filter for now.

Yes, I ordered the test kit, but it says it will be about 5 days (coming from east coast, I'm in Phoenix).

I could really use some advice. I will have to rely on pool store figures for now. My pool looks awful, like never before. I have read a lot of the suggested info, but it's a lot to take in at once, and with the stress of my pool 's condition, blowing $300 w/no results as yet...

Should I be concerned how much algae is growing and will in the next 5 days?
 
It would be best to have your test kit because anything you add not might just be wasted.

Have you replaced any water yet? Likely your CYA is indeed too high, so if you want to feel like you are doing something, start replacing water.

If you want to add some chlorine, then one of the 121 oz 8.25% jugs of bleach will add 3.2ppm FC ... but if you can not maintain shock level, then you are using more chlorine that you would have to.
 
Hi Jason

Ya, it's gonna be a few days since I couldn't order the test kit until today.

This weekend I took your advice to start replacing water and rented a hm depot pump to drain it as much as I had time to, knowing I'd have to refill before the sun was up. It looked like about 1/2 the water pumped out. Hard to tell. Its a very free-form pool w/an irregular depth.

I realize this was not 100% advised, but knowing the AZ heat is only going to get much worse, I saw this as my last opportunity for months to make a significant difference in the CYA (130). Seems stepped drain/refills would leave me buying a crazy amount of chlorine for some time.

After refill, I bought 6gals of 10% chlorine, poured in all of them and got a VERY light orange color with my old test kit. Seems to me it wasnt even a shock. Saw no improvement. I do question Walmarts liquid pool chlorine's shelf life. I saw many aged looking, greyish cardboard boxes (bought the brown ones). Tried to call co to ask if exp date cold be read from the lot # but nobody answered.

Im wondering if I should use the rest of my algaecide (skill-it). Am about to take sample to pool store to have something to go on.

25k IG pebble pool (refinished '09), Pentair sand filter, Barracuda G3
 
I drained 90% of my pool back in March ... although the heat was not as much a factor back then.

The algaecide is better at preventing algae than removing it. Stick with chlorine.

Please add your pool details and location as described HERE to your signature as it will help us help you.
 
Sorry about the signature lacking. I got as much info off the system I could see but not sure about flow rate. A new Triton II on line said up to 20 GPM flow, but mine is 4yrs old.

I have the new Leslie's test. (Awaiting tf-100) Same guy who did test 8 days ago did it last nt. Here's their results:

Date-------6/3------6/11
FAC---------4---------0
CYA-------130-------40
TA--------110------110
pH----------7.6-------8
Phos------700------100

TDS-----1800-----1800 (Curious. Is this from water hardness, being the same after apprx a 50% drain/refill)


IF this is accurate, is the 40 CYA now a little low for my direct Phoenix sunlight?

I did my own pH test (1st time, w/old kit) and I got 8.2. Anyway, I added 5 cups of muratic acid and my test now says 7.4.
All those bottles of bleach and chlorine I put in since refilling did nada I guess. I just bought another 6 gallons of hm depot 10% AND 8 -121oz bleach bottles which say 8.25% (by weight I think), 7.25% available chlorine. I'm about to look at the calculator to see what it says to add. It feels like I'm adding chlorine to no end.

Update: I put in the recommended 4 gal of 10% liq chlorine to shock it at 16, but soon after it was only at 3ppm!?

Any advice welcome

Thanks
 

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