TC is over 10

Catherineb

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LifeTime Supporter
May 22, 2013
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Hello again,
My TC is way over 10. I was advised to add 30lbs of shock to bring the level down so that the FC and TC equal themselves out? make sense? anyway, my pressure has gone sky high and the filter seems to be making this knocking noise. The granular shock was diluted before I added it to the pool. It seemed an awful lot of shock to add but was assured this was what I needed to do to get the TC down?? is this normal and do I need to worry about my guage going over 20? the filter was clean before I started this process. It also seems to me that it will take days to clear.
 
We around these parts call that being pool stored.how did you get your results I am guessing test strips.first off I would clean the filter to lower the pressure and then read pool school and the read it again it will make better sense the second time around.we need a full set of ACURATE test results to better help you and the best way to test your water is with the tf100 test kit or the k2006 both are available from tftestkits.net.......Mike
 
BTW
Pool school can be found at the top right of every page, what does your water look like?
But look on the bright side we have all been right where you are now but like you we all found this website and have learned the proper way to maintain our pools, this site is going to help you with any questions you may have so just take a deep breath and ask away.......BTW welcome to tfp
 
I cringe when I read stories like this, by chance do you know what type of "shock" product was added, most likely it was either Cal-Hypo which adds Chlorine and Calcium to your pool potentially causing problems if the Calcium gets too high (cloudy water, scaling, damage to pool equipment, etc.) the second most likely is Di-Chlor, which adds both Chlorine and CYA, 30 pounds of Di-Chlor in a 15K gallon pool alone even if there were no CYA in the water before hand (like in a fresh fill) would be enough to require a partial water replacement to get it back down to managable levels.

Like has been said you need to read the pool school link in the upper right, and you need to get your own quality test kit in order to find out what is really going on in your pool. I personally use and endorse the TF-100 test kit, but the Taylor K-2006 will work also, it just is not as good of value.

Ike
 
Catherineb said:
Hello again,
My TC is way over 10. I was advised to add 30lbs of shock to bring the level down so that the FC and TC equal themselves out? make sense? anyway, my pressure has gone sky high and the filter seems to be making this knocking noise. The granular shock was diluted before I added it to the pool. It seemed an awful lot of shock to add but was assured this was what I needed to do to get the TC down?? is this normal and do I need to worry about my guage going over 20? the filter was clean before I started this process. It also seems to me that it will take days to clear.
In a previous thread yo stated that you were going to order a TF100. Did you?

Reading between the lines here today, it sounds like a) your pool is a green slime pit and b)you have high Combined Chloramines, CC. And a clogged filter.

Anytime the pressure goes 25% or above the pressure right after it's been cleaned, it needs cleaning again. Start there. Without good circulation and filtering, you simply can't perform the shock process.

My suggestion is to run the full set of tests and post results like this:
FC
CC
TC (FC+CC)
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Temperature

Also what it looks like. Then we know what you know and can help. While waiting for a few replies, clean the filter.
 
Hello,
Still having problems. My TC is over 10. Yes, I ordered the K2006 test kit. I think the TC is more like 30. I have one question. Please don't tell me to read the Pool School. I need expert advice. I have shocked the pool as per my posts above and it has not worked. I have also tried non chlorine shock which hasn't made a difference. Nothing I am doing is reducing the TC. It has been over 10 for nearly 4 weeks.

Here are todays readings:
TC way over 10 I think it is around 30
FC 3
AK 50
CH 650
CYA 100
FH 7.2

My question is because my CH is way high, I know I need to drain some of the water. Could this be the reason my TC will not go down? Any other ideas what I can do to lower it besides empty half of the pool? I know the CYA is also high.
 
You have not followed the shock process correctly because you do not have the proper test kit and your CYA is far too high anyway. Lowering the CYA is first priority, that will also help the high CH, but that sure not matter much at this point.
 
Thanks Jason but I do have the Taylor K2006 kit. While I am learning how to use it (not finding it easy to figure out) I can only reply on advice from the pool shop. These readings have been confirmed many times by the pool shop too. I shocked extensively to break=point but nothing is working.
Is it because my CYA is totally crazy high that nothing will work to lower my TC until I drain the water. Yes/no please?
 
Break point is meaningless. Follow the shock process in Pool School and start using the FAS-DPD test. Post your numbers. Basically, yes the CYA is too high.

And please choose if you are going to follow our methods or the pool stores. Otherwise, you are just wasting everyone's time and your money.
 
Jason, I am trying to learn your methods but give me a break. There is a lot to learn here but I am trying. In the meantime, I am just asking for advice as I am fighting this problem and am not understanding yet......yes, I know I am wasting my money. That is because everyone gives different advice and until I become an expert (long way off) I can not become an expert overnight.....
 

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Catherineb said:
Thanks Jason but I do have the Taylor K2006 kit. While I am learning how to use it (not finding it easy to figure out)

Umm, how is it THAT complicated? The instructions are printed on the underside of the lid.. and there are videos to show you what to do?
 
As has been mentioned there are youtube videos showing how to perform the various tests in the K-2006 kit, the primary ones we really need right now are FC, CC, CYA and to a lesser point CH. The CYA test only reliably reads up to 100 , so if you get a reading of 100, try again by diluting your sample 1 to 1 with CYA free water (tap water will work) and multiply your reading by 2 (you loose some accuracy, but get an idea if the real reading is 110 or 180, etc.)

Your addition of chemicals other than the ones we suggest in the shock process has the potential to slow and confuse the process, you ask for it to be simple, and that is what is outlined in the shocking process, it does not include all the potential side effects you might find from tossing in other chemicals. For example the MPS chlorine free shock you used, has the side effect of showing up as CC on the standard chlorine tests for days,to measure chlorine levels when using MPS chlorine free shock requires the special test that allows you to calculate and subtract the effects of the MPS.

Ike
 
Catherineb,

Take a few deep breaths. The only way we can help is with some good test results from your test kit. The results will tell us what we need to know to help you get your pool back in sparkling clear condition. The whole test kit can be a little intimidating at first but soon it will be as easy as baking a cake from a box mix.

We need to know:
FC (free chlorine)
CC (combined chlorine) Those two chlorines together equals TC (total chlorine)
Ph
CYA
CH (calcium hardness)
TA

Stop listening to the pool store. Everyone here is much more capable at getting your pool cleared than most pool store employees. We really want to help you get a clean and clear pool. We are not trying to sell you anything other than a good test kit (unlike the pool store). With the knowledge you can get here you will be able to understand what your pool needs and WHY! You will have to read Pool School more than once to fully understand what is going on with your pool. It sounds like rocket science the first time you read it but shortly you will be explaining it to others.

It sounds like you will need to follow our shocking process with bleach only (from Pool School) but first you will need to replace a percentage of your water to lower the CYA and CH. What does your water currently look like. You will need to clean your cartridge filter frequently during the shock process if your pressure rises above your normal pressures.

I am sorry for telling you to read Pool School again but most of your questions are answered there. You have more than 20 post and have been reading for almost a month now so none of this advice should be new to you. You have heard it before. Just listen to what the regulars are saying and you should be swimming shortly. Please ask specific questions and you will get your answers. Good luck!
 
jblizzle said:
Break point is meaningless. Follow the shock process in Pool School and start using the FAS-DPD test. Post your numbers. Basically, yes the CYA is too high.

And please choose if you are going to follow our methods or the pool stores. Otherwise, you are just wasting everyone's time and your money.

:lol:

Meaningless? I think not. I love my getting to my break point. Break Point to me means it's time for this: :cheers:

Please don't take my break point away. :mrgreen:
 
Hello Catherine :wave:

I know it's frustrating, but you can do this! There is a lot to learn and sometimes we expect more than we should.

Now that you have a good test kit, concentrate on running a set of tests. Just take one test (the FAS-DPD for example) and follow the instructions for that test one step at a time until you think you've got a good result. Then write that down, and move to the next test. Don't worry too much about being perfect. That comes with time we just need some good numbers to start with.

Lets start by concentrating on;
pH
FC
CYA

Run those tests and post the numbers and we'll go from there.

It's very likely that the first thing you need to do is drain and refill a good portion of your water. The CYA number will tell us that.

You CAN do this, and soon it will start making more sense.
 
Like Bama said, lets focus on the three suggested.

Lets do the ph test, it's easy.

pH. Fills the test block up to the thin black line, add 5 drops of the red topped pH reagent, compare the colors, write down the number from the color block that best matches.

FC: add 10 ml water to the Chlorine only cylinder, add one generous scoop of the gray powder, swirl to mix. It should be very pink and a few crystals may remain. Swirl and add the correct yellow capped reagent one drop at a time swirling each drop. Continue swirling and adding one drop until the solution turns clear. Write down the number of drops ( ie 11drops) multiply the number by 0.5. This is your FC (5.5 in this example). Keep this clear solution for the CC test

CC: add five drops of the second yellow capped bottle. If the solution stays clear, you have zero CC. If it turns pink, add drops like in the FC test. Count each drop. When goes clear, the number of drop ( ie3 drops) times 0.5 is your CC ( ie 3 x0.5 = 1.5 ppm)
 
Oops. I forgot the CYA, see Pool School for the directions. If it reads 100 ppm, dilute your solution by adding an equal amount of tap water and testing again ( see the extended directions for more help). And double the results. So if it reads 100 the first time and you dilute it and the second test reads 60, your CYA is about 120.

The CYA test can be repeated several times with the same solution by pouring it from the tube back into the shaker bottle.
 
Thanks guys. Ok, its a new day. I will get you these numbers and post and take it from there. Thanks Techguy for the step by step instructions. You clarified a couple of minor but important points for me.
 

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