quick question about OCLT

[chuckdog]

Been keeping pool at shock levels (even a little higher to account for +/- in cya test with my k-2006)...and I keep failing my OCLT test by 2-3 ppm. I have been maintaining the shock level for about 4 days ranging from FC between 18-30 with my cya reading of 35ish.

Pool is crystal clear and no visible algae for 2-3 days.

During the OCLT test, do I keep my pump running over night, but just turn my auto chlorine feeder to the "off" postion? Is that ok, or should I remove the pucks I have in there in addition to putting feeder to "off" position.

Converting to BBB, bust just using the rest of a couple of pucks I have left.

Am I doing this right?

 

[linen]

Are you certain, your cya is that low? Seems unlikely if you were formerly a puck user.

What has your CC been reading?

I would take the pucks out and save them for a vacation (if your cya is would not get too high using them). I am not certain if having a feeder in the off position is really "off" since I don't have one.

 

[chuckdog]

cc has been 0 using the 10ml fas-dpd test during last week.

taken 3 cya tests using my taylor k-2006 and my reading is between 30-40. To be certain, I have had my wife re-pour into the black dot tube and she gets same result. measuring looking down at waist level.

pool has only been open for 2+ weeks and before I got my taylor test kit last week...I depended on pool tore tests for cya levels

for the first week it was open, my pool store cya levels were (taken 2 days apart), in order oldest to newest:

189...after this test I drained about 20% of my pool using 2 pumps and replaced with water from garden hose and from a rainstorm. I also shocked with about 13 lbs of dichlor powder shock. I know now...bad idea. I think this caused the high cya reading.
42
106
62

since I got my taylor test kit last week cya been between 30-40 about every other day (tested twice as I mentioned)

All along, I have been vacuuming to waste and replacing with hose water as needed.

In the 2+ weeks my pool has been open, I think I have gone through only about 4 pucks tops. I've been shocking with 12.5% bleach in addition to having the chlorine feeder open to "max" with 2-3 pucks in it.

I have cleaned the ladder (and actually left it submerged in the pool with at shock level as well as brushes, vacuum, and pole.

I have a light under the water (under diving board)that I'm not sure what to do with. I brush it clean on the outside, but not sure how to remove it or if I even can/should to clean behind it. I am kind nervous to fool around with it since electricity and water isn't a good combo!

I will try to post a picture of it later. Its got a bulb in it and the bulb is encased by white plastic. Its never worked in the 5 years since I have inherited it. Do I have to drain the pool below the light? seems kinda silly to do that...

 

[linen]

Good, it sounds like your cya is at a good level (regardless of how you got there?...that is why we don't trust pool store cya testing).

I would keep the FC up at shocking levels until you pass that OCLT.

Turn off the power to the light fixture and remove the retaining ring that holds the fixture into its niche. Pool light fixtures are made to be removed underwater and it should have a long enough cord that you lift the light up and set it on the deck. It seems light niches are a common place for algae to reside.

 

[duraleigh]

or should I remove the pucks I have in there in addition to putting feeder to "off" position.

If the feeder really does go "off", that's fine. To validate the test perfectly, wouldn't hurt to take the pucks out

 

[chuckdog]

here is a photo of the pool light. To remove the light from its niche, do I remove the inner or outer most screws?

In doing this, won't water start leaving the pool. excuse my ignorance, I have never done this and never seen what is behind the pool light and the niche. Just don't want to get electrocuted and have water start pouring out of the pool and into the niche/hole!