Durring Alge Shock - what tests are reliable?

[philTwinLakes]

I shocked my pool yesterday.
Got my 1st ever real test kit last night (K-2006), not sure why by excited about it.
I ran my 1st set of tests with the kit this morning.

Here are the numbers.
FC 14.0
CC 1.0
PH 7.2
Alk 150
Calcium 280
CYA - 0 ? black dot never disappeared

What numbers are accurate during shocking phase? What tests should be skipped?

Thanks
Phil

 

[mynewpool]

From what I have read on the board.

If you are shocking the most important test results are FC and CC and should really only be the ones you are worried about when shocking. After you get done shocking you can get everything else back in line. Most import thing to do is get rid of anything that should not be growing in the pool. If you have not read pool school already make sure to read it in the upper right and corner. Read the article about shocking your pool.

Shocking article

pool-school/shocking_your_pool

When FC is over 10, the pH results will not be accurate. So while shocking your pool concentrate on the FC and CC levels and read the how to shock your pool article I posted above.

 

[woodyp]

You.SHOULD......have checked your CYA level before starting to shock the pool. And everything else too. How can you tell what your FC shock level is without a CYA test? See the chlorien/CYA chart in pool school. DURING the shock process........you're only concerned with 2 things.......FC and CC.

 

[JasonLion]

You can't really use the PH test when FC is above 10. Otherwise the test results should be correct.

 

[Richard320]

The pH test is inaccurate above 10 FC. TA may go blue> yellow instead of green> pink

If CYA is that low, your FC is probably already down low enough to retest pH. You need to get pH fixed before the shock process since you won't be able to test it during. And you need some CYA - roughly 30 - or the sunlight will break down the chlorine before it can kill anything.

Have you studied Pool School? Especially The Shock Process?

 

[duraleigh]

Now that you have done a complete set, you only need to check FC and CC during the shocking process.

I might add that with a CYA result of zero, it will be almost impossible to shock your pool correctly.

I suggest you immediately calculate and dose enough CYA to get to 30 ppm and then continue the process using 12 ppm as you FC level.

read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School, then read "How to Shock Your Pool".

PS - it is very understandable to be excited about getting a really good test kit.....It's a mandatory step to taking charge of your own pool. We'll get you much better help with those reliable results, too.

 

[BoDarville]

Welcome to TFP

Wow, we have some fast typists online this morning! Although I think we are all saying the same thing, I'll post since I have it queued up...

Got my 1st ever real test kit last night (K-2006)

Item 1...check

What numbers are accurate during shocking phase? What tests should be skipped?

pH should not be tested during the Shock Process. High FC levels invalidate that test.

CYA - 0 ? black dot never disappeared

I would suggest getting CYA in the 30-40 ppm range before shocking. Otherwise, your FC loss will be extremely high, especially if you are battling algae in addition to the normal loss of FC due to sunlight.

I shocked my pool yesterday.

Shocking a pool is a process and not a product. The labeling of so-called "shock" products adds to the confusion on this. For the straight scoop on the Shock Process, click on the link in my sig.

 

[philTwinLakes]

Thanks for all the feedback, I think my OP may have not accurately stated what I am doing.

During the week I read articles in the pool school, not all but several, the list of abbreviations, over night FC test, How to deal w/ Algae, the calculator, and the how to change your swamp back to a beautiful oasis.

Yesterday (Saturday) morning I only had test strips and a 3 way Wal-Mart test kit.
I wanted to open my pool and didn't want to lose a full Saturday waiting for my test kit (k-2006) to come in the mail. So I started following the swamp to oasis post.

So the first thing I did was test w/ test strips (it's all I had on hand) - FC 0 , CC 0, CYA 20-30, Ph was a little high.
I added some PH down and ran the pump for an hr.
Then I added enough chlorine to bring FC up to 15 as per pool calculator.
I ran the pump all day, scrubbed down the side every few hrs, rechecked the chlorine mid day (again test strips) , added more chlorine to maintain FC 15. FC 15 was best guess as the strips only had to 10.

By the end of the day 8pm the pool was looking good, not great but much better. Also around 8pm my k-2006 test kit arrived.
It was a long day and I wasn't in the mood to rush thru the test kit.

The next morning (Today) I woke up and the pool was much better, water clear, can easily see the bottom, a fair amount of dirt laying on the bottom.
I then used the test kit (k-2006) for the 1st time.
So I am thinking, ok I am using this test kit during an active algae fight where I know the FC is going to be very high.
And that prompted the post, because I wasn't sure what test to trust.

After reading the responses I understand a little more, but have a few questions.

FC 14.0 // Added some more chlorine to get back to 15
CC 1.0 // Looking for this to be .5, should be there tomorrow, if not already (it's now 3pm Sunday)
PH 7.2 // As per post ignore
Alk 150
Calcium 280
CYA - 0 // Could this be a true reading and the strips were bad, or ignore this test until FC gets to 7 and retest?

I predict by tomorrow (Monday) that my FC will be high and I'll have passed the over night FC loss test. This is based on it's been cloudy the last few days (little rain) and cool (65F).

My plan is let my FC drop to 7(if it remains cool it may take a few days), then retest everything and use the pool calculator to adjust to correct levels. Sound about right?

Also, a tip of the hat to any / all that posted the pool school articles. They have been incredibly helpful and are well written and easy to follow. Thanks so much.

Phil

 

[Richard320]

...
After reading the responses I understand a little more, but have a few questions.

FC 14.0 // Added some more chlorine to get back to 15
CC 1.0 // Looking for this to be .5, should be there tomorrow, if not already (it's now 3pm Sunday)
PH 7.2 // As per post ignore
Alk 150
Calcium 280
CYA - 0 // Could this be a true reading and the strips were bad, or ignore this test until FC gets to 7 and retest?

I predict by tomorrow (Monday) that my FC will be high and I'll have passed the over night FC loss test. This is based on it's been cloudy the last few days (little rain) and cool (65F).

My plan is let my FC drop to 7(if it remains cool it may take a few days), then retest everything and use the pool calculator to adjust to correct levels. Sound about right?

Also, a tip of the hat to any / all that posted the pool school articles. They have been incredibly helpful and are well written and easy to follow. Thanks so much.

Phil

CYA test shouldn't be affected much by high CYA. Probably the strips were wrong.