CC

[nicpppardo]

Hello all! Random question for everyone as I am just trying to understand how all of these pool chemicals work.

I have been working to get my CYA levels up from 0 (I am now at 60) and with my SWG working at 30%, my FC shot up to 6- pretty exciting, considering this time last year CYA was zero and SWG was at 80%.

Anyway, I have my FC back down to 4 (according to the pool school chart), but I'm just curious why, with proper FC levels, I get any CC at all? My CC levels are 0.2-0.4 at most, but I'm wondering why they show up at all with efficient FC levels? Full test results below, just in case they matter for this question.

FC- 4
CC- 0.2
pH- 7.4
TA- 70
CYA- 60
Salt- 3400
CH- 800 (I know I know- I'm working on it )


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[Isaac-1]

This is a hard one to answer without knowing if you want the simple version or the college level chemistry version, going simple when your FC reacts with organic compounds it produces CC, which the FC will try to break down in time, UV light from the sun also helps break down the CC. As to the reason your seeing .2 -.4 CC chances are your pool is partly shaded, or it may get an above average amount of organic mater blown in, or may have high bather load, etc.

 

[linen]

Isaac gave a great explanation. Some low level of CC always exists (due to the reasons he listed), which is why we say more than 0.5 ppm CC to indicate need for the shocking process. In addition, the FC and CC test is really only accurate to +/- 1 drop at low levels.

Which brings up this comment: There is really no need to have 0.2 ppm accuracy on the FC and CC test. I would switch to the 10 ml sample size where each drop is 0.5 ppm.

 

[nicpppardo]

Thanks for the reply! Like you said, if the only time to worry is >0.5, then I'll switch it up to the 10ml test. That'll save some $$ on chemicals!


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