Short Sale Swamp - just beginning

[marfybunchanumbers]

Hi! We just bought a beautiful new home with a beautiful new swamp. The pool has not been used in 4+ years, so you can imagine what the whole thing looks like. I have been reading and reading this site and am ready to do this myself. One problem: We called the pool guy to come and check out the equipment - it is all toast. We need a new pump, new filter and a new heater. To the tune of $4k. Yikes.

So, I am looking for some opinions on a few things he said.
1. We already bought a new pump (pentair intelliflo VS), so that is taken care of. The pool guy is recommending a new sand filter (Hayward SF244) and Heater (Rheem 266). I am not convinced we need the heater this year...we have a short swim season and want to do it w/ a solar cover & possible solar panels as long as possible. Yet, the pool guy said that he would have to re-plumb everything if we changed our minds later. Does this make sense or is it an easy add-on later?

2. He said we need a Hayward Chlorinator - ?? Is this a must? From what I read here, I dont think so.

3. He wants to drain & refill - to the tune of approx $2200 (water cost being the majority - we are on well & the iron is very high). Pool guy says the water is too old & too much muck on the bottom. I am thinking I can do it myself without draining. I have the TFT test kit & have done some initial testing - no CYA and 0 Chlorine.

Any insights would be helpful - I am very new to this, but would like to learn. My husband wants to fill the pool in. I am determined to prove to him that we can take care of this ourselves.

Thanks
(I will attach pics once I take some).

 

[Richard320]

Welcome!

Boy, I don't know what to tell you. People have cleared black pools here. But you can't even see what shape the plaster is in right now, can you? After all the work and expense to clear it, you might still end up needing to drain it to fix something.

What's wrong with the sand filter? He has one on the shelf that's getting dusty?

You can plumb things for a heater without installing one immediately, no problem. A couple of 90° fittings and a short length of pipe so it makes a U where the heater will sit and you're good to go. If you know what heater you want, you might even be able to find the dimensions online in a manual and have it perfectly spaced and ready to cut and glue next year.

No, you don't need a puck chlorinator. Tell him you plan to buy a liquidator next year after you've gotten used to balancing the chemistry this season. On the other hand, if you travel a lot, a puck feeder will keep things going while you're gone, and allow you to put a cover on, something a floater complicates.

 

[jblizzle]

I agree with Richard, sounds like you are being fed a lot of non-sense.

Adding a heater later is easy ... in fact, if that was planned the plumbing could be stubbed out to accommodate it no problem.

Also, for your size pool, we would actually recommend a sand filter closer to 28" diameter.

 

[marfybunchanumbers]

That is what I thought. I felt like I was going in pretty well educated, but now I feel just run-over w/ high pressure sales.

No to the heater, for sure. My husband has some ideas for something more energy efficient next year, but we need to do the research.

As far as the drain & refill, the water truck would cost $1800+. Same cost as that heater I just got rid of

No to the chlorinator, maybe no to the filter (as long as he can show me what is wrong with it).

I wish I knew what shape the bottom was in - the pool is a concrete bottom w/ fiberglass sides.

Thanks for the advice. Very appreciated!

 

[Bama Rambler]

With water cost that high I'd say it's worth it to try and clear it up without draining.

If you can post some pics of the equipment and pool we may be able to help figure out what needs to be done.

It could be that there's absolutely nothing wrong with the filter. Since you've bought a new pump, you just need to get it plumbed in.

I'd start scooping as much stuff out of it as possible with a leaf net. Then get the pump hooked up and running. and stock up on lots of liquid chlorine (bleach).

Did you test the CH?

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Just cleared up a pool closed for 5 years with the existing equipment. Why does he say the equipment I shot?
You don't need to drain and refill. Just nonsense.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Look around for a good price on 12.5% chlorine - if you can get in 5 gallon jugs from a garden center for around $15 that's a good price - may need a jug deposit.
Order some Stabilizer (CYA) online - use the pool calculator to determine how much you will need to get your pool to 30 to start with then 50. But you can order more than that, it stores well and you may need to add some in the future.

We can walk you through. A pool closed for that long may have some organic staining but I wouldn't worry too much about that. Everything can be dealt with in time. We are here to help - post back with any questions!

 

[marfybunchanumbers]

Thanks everyone! I spent last night thinking about this & have gone back and forth re: draining vs cleaning it myself. My biggest concern is that I just won't have the time to do it. I really want to try, though.
I work for a big industrial supply company, so I got a vacuum, PVC, bleach, borax and baking soda at cost. I am lucky there...

I have done very limited testing so far - my chlorine test never turned pink, so I am assuming I am at zero. They black dot never disappeared on the CYA test, so I am assuming that is also zero. My PH was 7.5. I did not test for anything else...mostly because I was getting overwhelmed.

Once the pump gets plumbed in, I will post some pics of the equipment and the pool. It has potential.

I am calling the pool guy back today and he is going to have to explain to me EXACTLY what is wrong w/ the filter before I give him any money.

Now, I need to keep reading this site - it is helping me make up my mind!

 

[Bama Rambler]

Once he tells you what "he" thinks is wrong with the filter, post back and see if we may agree with him before you agree to spending any money.

Keep in mind that the difference in him and us, is that he has his wallet as his interest, and we have yours.

 

[marfybunchanumbers]

I am back...after many unreturned calls, I finally got through to the pool guy.

re: Filter - he says my valve assembly is bad (frozen?) I have a corrosion, a broken lateral (?) and he mentioned calcification.
He says he will give me a deal on a new filter and not charge for install - should I try and replace the mechanics or just go ahead and drop $200 on a new filter?

On the drain & refill option, we need to check the plaster at the bottom - we found old paperwork from the previous owners saying they were having plaster issues - it was an estimate from the year they vacated, so I am assuming they never had it fixed. I think we may end up draining to inspect & refilling...not what I really wanted to do, but may save me a headache in the long run.

Thanks in advance for any help...

 

[Bama Rambler]

On the filter, does frozen mean it won't turn or that it froze and cracked? Go out and try to press down the handle and turn the valve around to all the positions. report back if it would turn and what it felt like when turning.

There's no way for him to know if it has broken lateral unless he removed the sand and visually inspected it. Did he do that?

It's very rare for the sand to be calcified. I'd be very suspicious of that info.

However $200 for a brand new S244T is a very good deal, but make sure it's a S244T and not a S180T or smaller. I assume that the sand is extra.

 

[marfybunchanumbers]

Thanks for the insight - I went out & the handle just spun - it never clicked into place at all. No idea about the lateral - I was not there while he inspected it. I doubt he took it apart.

I think he is taking me for a ride. I think I can replace the valve assembly, but $200 for a new filter is a good deal. I am just not sure I want to give him the business, you know?? I would rather pay more to someone who is not trying to hose me. I am calling some other referrals now.

I am in no hurry and armed w/ this site, I feel like I can go into this with a little more knowledge. I will make sure to have them inspect the equipment in front of me & tell me exactly what is wrong.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Bama Rambler]

A new multiport valve is about $80 and laterals are pretty cheap. If you're pretty handy (or know someone that is) you can repair the filter yourself. It bears repeating that if that is a new and complete S244T filter for $200 and he's offering to install for free, it's a really good price.

 

[marfybunchanumbers]

I think I can get a replacement valve at McMaster-Carr pretty cheap. My husband or one of our engineer friends could get it installed.

And I do realize the price is amazing. Believe me, I am tempted to get the whole thing new for $200 plus sand, but this guy irks me. I think he is backpedaling and offering me this deal because he knows I am about to pull my business completely.

 

[techguy]

I see you have excellent help here and have opinions but I am going to guess you can do this, with the help here. I have gone from swamp to clear in a week using my limited knowledge.

I have a DE filter that is a huge inconvenience when green but boy... does it make for clear water.

 

[harleysilo]

Thanks for the insight - I went out & the handle just spun - it never clicked into place at all. No idea about the lateral - I was not there while he inspected it. I doubt he took it apart.

I think he is taking me for a ride. I think I can replace the valve assembly, but $200 for a new filter is a good deal. I am just not sure I want to give him the business, you know?? I would rather pay more to someone who is not trying to hose me. I am calling some other referrals now.

I am in no hurry and armed w/ this site, I feel like I can go into this with a little more knowledge. I will make sure to have them inspect the equipment in front of me & tell me exactly what is wrong.

Thanks for your help!

You are on the right track.

 

[marfybunchanumbers]

Thanks everyone! After much discussion, I decided to try and replace the valve assembly. If I can't get it working, I will replace the filter.

We will be draining for the plaster inspection next week. I will post back once we get this thing figured out.

Hopefully we can get things open by the end of the month, with the help of this site!

 

[marfybunchanumbers]

Hi all! Pool is drained, plaster is repaired, filter valve assembly replaced (whoo hoo!) and everything is plumbed. One problem - The pool guy just called and told me that I need an electrician to come out to wire the pump - he said the pump is 220V. Apparently something needs to be re-wired from the house?

I have a call into the electrician to take a look, but I am clueless. I do not want to fill if we do not have a pump running. Can anyone translate this for me? How involved is this problem?

 

[spidey07]

New wire and breaker to be installed for the pump. Depending on the wire that's there it could just be a breaker.

 

[marfybunchanumbers]

OK - that would be helpful. I am hoping the electrician who did the renovation on the house can come out today and look at it. Water delivery is scheduled for tomorrow. I am wondering how long it can sit w/o the pump...Ug. I hate contractors.