Leaving the darkside, need advice

May 30, 2013
29
Springfield, Mo
owned my 27' AG pool since 2006
tired of the pool store yo-yo ride.
now pool is:
170000 gal
water is clear
FC= .04
CC = .6
PH = 7.2
TA = 126
CYA = 111
CH = 270

ordered my test kit, wont be here for couple of days.
do I shock it now or just get levels up according to chart(9ppm with CYA this high)?
was thinking shocking would be a waste till I get my kit to test for loss of chlorine?

thoughts?
:whoot: :whoot:
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

If your CYA is at all to be believed, then you are in for a massive amount of water changes before there is any point to adjusting anything. Although the CYA test is the one that pool stores are the worst at (assume that is the source of your numbers?).
 
yes it is from pool store.
tested yesterday.
they mark out HIGH and write in OK next to it each test :)
started at 10 a month ago, then 30, then 60 now 111.

should i wait for the TF-100 to get here?

feel I need some FC in there, but realize it may need drained.
 
So you have been using a lot of pucks and/or dichlor shock I am guessing to get a CYA rise that fast. If true, then the CYA is likely pretty high. You could start replacing water while waiting since you are not able to do a full drain with a liner pool anyway.

Maybe start with a 50% drain and refill and then test it when the kit arrives.

Please add your pool details and location as described HERE as it will help us help you.

I am also guessing you added an extra 0 to your pool volume ... unless it really is a 27' diameter, 40' deep pool ;)
 
wheels: yep, thats a big typo, 17K gallons(27' round AG)

we added like 6-9 lbs of shock several times trying to bust the CC level
last shock was tuesday: 5lbs

large 22" sand filter
1.5 hp
new zeobrite sand this year
tab floater with 4x 3" tabs-.wide open

so just use hose from pump->into pool-.get say half or more water out and refill
retest when kit arrives?

I got here because even with 7-10 lbs of shock and tabs in floater, FC keeps going way down after few hours or a day
 
Read Pool School while you are waiting.

You seem to be a classic case of too much trichlor/dichlor which adds FC and CYA. The FC is consumed, the CYA builds up. The required FC to prevent algae is a % of the CYA level. So as CYA goes up, the required FC goes up. Eventually the pucks and powders just will not add enough FC to overcome the CYA.

You need to get the CYA to a reasonable level and then start using liquid chlorine which does not add more stabilizer.
 

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I think generally you want to leave at least 1 foot of water in the shallow end (if you have one) to avoid the liner able to shift. 50% should certainly be safe, but you may be able to go a little more.
 
That's because you are unable to maintain sanitary FC levels and likely have algae or something growing. With CYA that high it takes a lot of chlorine to reach and maintain shock FC levels. The shock powder is likely dichlor which also contains CYA which is only making it worse.

Notice that min FC for CYA of 100 is 7. Meaning if it ever dips below that stuff is likely to grow and the target would be 12 and shock of 39. If your CYA number is to believed (and I do based on the pucks and dumping shock into it) then water replacement is necessary. Then you can retest when your kit arrives and post up a full set of numbers for us. Highly likely you'll need to go through the shock process so read about that in pool school.

CYA/FC chart here
pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock
 
was reading other posts, found this one.

"For the CYA you should not see the dot at all. Just pour the solution back and forth a few times and see if you consistently get the same reading (you are outside with your back to the sun right?) You likely still need to add some more if you are not up around 80ppm (assuming you have a lot of sun)."

mine is 111, my pool has NO shade at all, to me i need to get rid of half the water or less to get CYA down to a usable level?
way I read this i need to drop CYA to 60-80, am at 111...so I need to go down like 30-40 points?
 
drdispatch said:
was reading other posts, found this one.

"For the CYA you should not see the dot at all. Just pour the solution back and forth a few times and see if you consistently get the same reading (you are outside with your back to the sun right?) You likely still need to add some more if you are not up around 80ppm (assuming you have a lot of sun)."

mine is 111, my pool has NO shade at all, to me i need to get rid of half the water or less to get CYA down to a usable level?
way I read this i need to drop CYA to 60-80, am at 111...so I need to go down like 30-40 points?
Those instructions are for someone with clear water and a salt water generator. For a murky mess that's about to undergo the shock process, 30 is a pretty good number. 40 is do-able. Get much above that and you start buying bleach by the drum, not the jug.

Once the shock process is complete and the water is sparkling, then you can raise CYA if you want to.
 
drdispatch said:
good enough, for the record my pool IS crystal clear.
just HIGH on CYA reading and no real FC

so..was going to go BBB method rather then tossing more $$ at pool store.
also 7 year old water prob needs changing, I assume.
If the water is clear, I'd hold off on doing anything but adding bleach until I had some test results I could trust.
 
I ordered my TF100 yesterday, paid for 2nd day air, wont be here till Monday

I think I will run a sample to pool store to get latest CYA reading, we had 3" of rain last night, I think it will be lower now.
have not added any tri shock or tabs since Tuesday of this week, so have little to NO FC.

best plan knowing test kit will be 4 more days getting here?
was going to drain about 60% of water, replace. then start shock process after I get CYA down to better level?

I feel my small kit can tell me FC level till monday, so I can drain and shock with bleach.
 

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