After adding shock, how long should I leave the setting on my filter to recirculate before I turn it to filter?
Recirculate or filter
- Thread starter Sheri915
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!!!You never have to put your filter on recirculate ... unless it is clogging very quickly while you are not able to attend to it.
How does your water look? What are you current test results? Are you following the shock PROCESS as described in Pool School?
pool-school/shocking_your_pool
Please add your pool details and location as described HERE as it will help us help you.
Welcome to TFP!
If possible I would leave the filter on filter all of the time. You don't have to use recirculate at all unless you are unable to monitor the filter for pressure increases that will require backwashing/cleaning. In practice this sometimes means that DE filters can only be on filter during an algae outbreak while you are around because the pressure can go up very rapidly, while sand filters, which don't catch algae quite as quickly, can normally be left on filter all of the time.
If possible I would leave the filter on filter all of the time. You don't have to use recirculate at all unless you are unable to monitor the filter for pressure increases that will require backwashing/cleaning. In practice this sometimes means that DE filters can only be on filter during an algae outbreak while you are around because the pressure can go up very rapidly, while sand filters, which don't catch algae quite as quickly, can normally be left on filter all of the time.
jblizzle said:
You never have to put your filter on recirculate ... unless it is clogging very quickly while you are not able to attend to it.
How does your water look? What are you current test results? Are you following the shock PROCESS as described in Pool School?
pool-school/shocking_your_pool
Please add your pool details and location as described HERE as it will help us help you.
FAC .5
TAC .5
CH 70
CYA 0
TA 30
PH 7.3
Pho 0
10,000 gal IG plaster pool
Added 10 lbs of alkalinity up at 5pm today
Added 1 lb shock at 8:30 pm
You need to order one of the recommended test kits, read pool school while waiting for the kit, and then follow the shock process.
I had the water tested at my local pool store and am trying to make the necessary adjustments. Getting the water hardness in balance in next as well as vacuuming. I have been reading pool school also. It's been a while since I had a pool so I'm a little overwhelmed right now.
I know it can be overwhelming but hang in there and it gets a lot easier soon.
Tackle one thing at a time. I wouldn't worry about hardness or alkalinity until you get the water clear.
What does the water look like?
Spend a little time reading how to shock your pool and learn the proper way to do it. throwing a bag of something in it once in a while isn't the proper way. we realize that it's what the pool store says to do, but it isn't the proper way to do it.
post back more questions and we're glad to help along the way.
Tackle one thing at a time. I wouldn't worry about hardness or alkalinity until you get the water clear.
What does the water look like?
Spend a little time reading how to shock your pool and learn the proper way to do it. throwing a bag of something in it once in a while isn't the proper way. we realize that it's what the pool store says to do, but it isn't the proper way to do it.
post back more questions and we're glad to help along the way.
water is still cloudy - I shocked it on Saturday and it was clear then I vacummed; shocked it again last night but not clear yet. The pool guy yesterday said to shock it every 24 hours until it stays clear - is that right?
Welcome!
To clear things quick, you need to maintain a certain level of Free Chlorine and check and replenish every hour or two. As often as possible, anyway. Once a day is not enough.
You won't know what your FC level is, what it should be, or how much to add to get it there without your own test kit onhand. A proper test kit. Details are in Pool School. In fact, almost everything you need is in Pool School, or in replies to other, similar, threads.
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He's getting warmerSheri915 said:
To clear things quick, you need to maintain a certain level of Free Chlorine and check and replenish every hour or two. As often as possible, anyway. Once a day is not enough.
You won't know what your FC level is, what it should be, or how much to add to get it there without your own test kit onhand. A proper test kit. Details are in Pool School. In fact, almost everything you need is in Pool School, or in replies to other, similar, threads.
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Sheri915 said:
What you added, a product called "Shock" isn't really going to cure what ails your pool unless you can keep the CL level up long enough to kill and oxidize whatever is growing in that water. The cheapest, most effective way is to use bleach and you want to add it, test, and re-add as needed to kill all the cooties. Reading the "Pool School" lessons <points up to top right of computer screen> is a good start. Also you need to get some CYA in that pool if the pool store testing is anywhere near accurate, which it often is *not*. Get a test kit yourself. I like the TF-100. You can find a link on how to order it here, and Duraleigh can get it shipped to you pronto!
I have a test kit and I am going to the store to buy good old bleach - but how much do I need for a 10,000 gal pool? And I read how to shock
What test kit do you have?
Post up YOUR test results. You need to verify the CYA level and get it around 30ppm and then follow the shock process.
Use poolcalculator.com to determine how much bleach you will have to add to acheive the desired FC increase. There is no way for use to tell you since we do not know your CYA which determine the shock FC level, nor do we know the % strength of bleach you will get.
Post up YOUR test results. You need to verify the CYA level and get it around 30ppm and then follow the shock process.
Use poolcalculator.com to determine how much bleach you will have to add to acheive the desired FC increase. There is no way for use to tell you since we do not know your CYA which determine the shock FC level, nor do we know the % strength of bleach you will get.
To be repetitive: What test kit do you have?
So you should add 30ppm of CYA and then maintain a shock FC level of 12ppm until you pass the 3 criteria to stop the shock process.
So you should add 30ppm of CYA and then maintain a shock FC level of 12ppm until you pass the 3 criteria to stop the shock process.
Please read this to see why we recommend the kits we do:
pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison
Test strips have historically not been worth the paper they are made with ... they are just not accurate enough to fully understand what the levels are in your water ... this results in wasted money by adding chemicals that are not needed.
I would not recommended adjusting anything based solely on test strips.
pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison
Test strips have historically not been worth the paper they are made with ... they are just not accurate enough to fully understand what the levels are in your water ... this results in wasted money by adding chemicals that are not needed.
I would not recommended adjusting anything based solely on test strips.
i'll get the tf 100 test kit and in the mean time add another dose of measured shock (powder form) until I can get a more accurate reading
