Starting up old pool

[dbh369]

I have an inground concrete block pool, about 18x40 ft avg depth around 6 (steep drop off on shallow end). It has been painted with a blue rubbery paint, but that's peeling off. We are power washing the paint, filling all the cracks with hydrolic cement, etc. First question, should I just paint the pool again, and with what?

I'm also intrigued with SWG. It looks like a lower maintenance method, especially if I have to be gone for several days. I've read the problems with autochlorinators (high CYA). This one looks decent, is there a better recommendation?
http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/CompuPoo ... CPSC48.htm Everything is concrete or pavers around the pool, and we can install all new plumbing, see below.

The pool literally has NO plumbing except for two pipes which I think are old inlets from the well house (yes we are on well water) and a drain in the bottom WITH a stop cock (rusted shut.). I'm looking for recommendations on getting plumbing into the pool. Can we just hang a skimmer from the side? Run pipes along under water for return and hope no one stands no them?

Lastly, our well water is very high pH, around 8.5. Since BBB is all about raising pH, what's the recommended pH lowering, muriatic acid? HCl?

Thanks

 

[Vette]

HCl (when in an aqueous solution) is hydrochloric acid. Muriatic acid is basically watered down HCl. That is exactly what is recommended to lower pH. You can also use dry acid if desired.

Sorry, I can't help on the plumbing.

 

[BoDarville]

Welcome to TFP

Since BBB is all about raising pH, what's the recommended pH lowering, muriatic acid? HCl?

I have not seen any reference that BBB is all about raising pH. Actually, as far as pH is concerned, BBB is about keeping pH within the recommended target range of between 7.2 and 7.8. Muriatic Acid (MA) is the best way to lower pH (and TA).

 

[dbh369]

Fair enough, just meant that nothing in the BBB profile lowered pH. Sounds like muriatic is the way to go. Any recommendations on the other questions?

Thanks!

 

[Vette]

BBB is just a cool name for the general idea of learning how to take care of your pool without the pool store dragging you around by the ears. And it happens to be based off 3 chemicals BBB'ers use (although not all BBB'ers use all the chemicals. Many people only use bleach and muriatic acid all year because they don't need anything else).

 

[dbh369]

Yep, I had a pool a long time ago, back before CYA. Liked the BBB write up as I've always thought there wasn't a diff in the chemicals.

PS, while on the topic, how does BAQUACIL compare cost and maintenance-wise?

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Baq is very expensive and problems start fairly soon - check the threads out in the Baq section of the forum. Click on Board Index and scroll down till you see it We have countless threads of people converting to chlorine after being unhappy with Baq.

 

[dbh369]

Thanks, after reading a bit more, it seems like SWG with borates is the way to go balancing cost and maintenance effort. Love the resources on this site!

 

[Vette]

Please note that borates are the last thing you add once your water is perfect. Don't rush on adding them.

 

[dbh369]

So, its going to take a few days to fill, should I pour bleach in right away as the pool is filling? Also be doing what I can on water balance? Or should I go with a shock profile and let it chill out. I'm filling from a well.

 

[Vette]

Add bleach once its full and you turn the pump on (as long as you are going to fill it quickly). If its going to take more than 4 days to fill, I'd start adding bleach (just a little) as it fills. There shouldn't be a need to shock once full, but you can just to err on the side of safe. Test your pH of the well. If its really low, buy some Borax. If its high, buy some Muriatic Acid since you'll need that to adjust once full. Also you are going to want to purchase stabilizer (CYA) to get it up to 50 (or 70 if you are using an SWG)

Oh, and has your well been tested for iron or other metals?

 

[dbh369]

I don't have abnormal iron (not sure about other metals) but there is a trace, is that something to worry about?

 

[duraleigh]

is that something to worry about?

How many ppm is your iron? Anything much greater than .3 ppm seems to cause issues.

 

[Isaac-1]

Your back before CYA comment surprises me a bit, how long have you been around pools, I think CYA stabilized chlorine came on the market in the early 1960's

 

[dbh369]

Yep, I'm old

while I'm here, suggestions on filter size and pump power? pool is 40 x 18 ft roughly, and I caninstall 1 or 2 skimmers. thinking 2 right now.

PS, iron was .07 mg/l, issue?

 

[Bama Rambler]

We're kinda bouncing around all over the place here. At what point are you in the rebuild?
Are you wanting to go back with a sand filter?
Did you decide how many skimmers you're wanting and how you're going to install them?

 

[Isaac-1]

Choice of pump and filter type are often influenced by local conditions (cost of water / electricity), in filters you generally have the choice between Sand, DE and Cartridge, with Sand consuming the most water due to loss backwashing and Cartridge consuming the least. DE is in the middle, but discharge of DE into your local sewer system may not be permitted. With pumps we generally suggest a 2 speed pump, running it on low most of the time, except when high is needed for vacuum , etc., or a variable speed pump if you have very high electricity costs, or special needs, like water features.

Ike

 

[dbh369]

Thanks for the info, yes, we have cleaned up the pool and are patching now. It would be a good time to cut skimmer(s) and lay pipe. The layout of the pool has an exposed wall on one side, cutting returns or skimmers in there would be easy, but I suspect that we would want them to be on opposite sides of the pool. We were thinking two skimmers on one side, returns on the other to push debries their way. My previous experience suggests a circulating pattern to prevent accumulation in corners, etc. So yes, looking for suggestions.

As for filter, can you run a cartridge on such a large pool? There's apparently some new 'micromedia' that's 'as good as' DE...which you put in your sand filter. Issac's pool is about the same size, seems like 1.5 HP 2 speed would work. Just not sure how to size a filter with the pool and water.

Basically, we will have a fair amount of leaves, but we live a a reasonalbly low dust area (Philly suburbs) and so woudln't expect a lot of dirt. We are on well, so water expense is not directly a problem, and we have septic, so probably can't dispose of the DE?

 

[dbh369]

Just got my test kit and tested the well water for TA (250!!) and CH(30). I'm going to need a lot of muriatic acid. I'm also going to need a lot of CaCl2, my question is since I'm using SWG, will this reduce my total salt need since there's another source of chloride ions?

 

[Bama Rambler]

You'll still have to have the correct amount of salt.