Can I bypass my filter due to algae?

[Thorp1165]

I have algae in my pool thanks to me dumping all of the winter remnants into the pool while opening, it was covered October until just the other day (while the pool was closed we had a hurricane and good amount of snow here on Long Island). This has lead me to some really gross water. I am in the process of using Clean to Green to kill the algae (calls for shocking the pool three times in 24 hours after adding the product, first shock was already done.) But because the algae is so bad, it clogs the DE filter I have after less than an hour. The C2G calls for the water to be circulated. To keep from blowing the pump up or blowing up the filter, I bypassed the filter just to keep water circulating. Am I on the right track? Or am I setting myself up for disaster?

I know I will have to clean the filter constantly, but to run it over night with the algae this bad seems like a bad idea. I have the filter apart, cleaned and drying. I'm hoping to kill the algae, put the filter back in line and then vacuum it once its dead.

Also, at start up, I am getting zero as a pressure reading and it stays there. I know the gauge works, because when filter backs up it causes the pressure gauge to rise. Any thoughts? I try to regenerate by bumping but to no avail. Handle just goes up and down, not getting any suction.

Oval Pool (15x26)
4.5 ft deep
13,500 gallons (roughly)
1.5HP pump
DE filter (perflex, with bump handle)

Most Recent Readings:
pH End Pad 8.0
FC 0
Alkalinity 100
Stabilizer 30-50

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Hi Thorp - You have been given pad advice... Please first start by reading Pool School.

Yes, you want the filter set to circulate to bypass the filter until the algae is dead, the water is clear and you can see the bottom so that you can vacuum to waste, if your filter set up has that system. If it doesn't, you will go through a lot of DE when vacuuming it out as that filter clogs quickly.

If you haven't opened the filter up, I would suggest you do so. Its not uncommon for the fingers to get clogged and need a bath in a diluted Muratic acid solution. (10 parts water to 1 part acid). Also the DE can become clumped and stuck at the top inside the fingers. Soaking, rinsing with a hose nozzle, then doing the acid bath will often restore any decreased flow to the "normal" pressure. You would then add the DE to the filter through the skimmer on "Filter" setting - be sure you are using the correct amount of DE with a proper "DE Scoop".

Green to Clean is an ammonia based product. Chlorine is all you need to kill algae. What effectively happens when you use the Green to Clean is you are using more than twice the amount of chlorine you would have needed than if you had used chlorine alone... because after you add the ammonia you then have to oxidize it with chlorine. I'm currently clearing pools that have ammonia, due to bacteria converting the stabilizer into ammonia. I had to apply 8 cases of 12.5.% liquid chlorine in 3 hours just to get the FC to hold at shock level.

Ditch the strips - they are worthless. Get one of the recommended test kits.

So, to reiterate - start in Pool School.
Read:
Test Kits Compared
How to Shock your Pool
Defeating Algae

Then go to the Further Reading section - and read Breaking Down Ammonia

Read them a few times and post back with any questions.

 

[BoDarville]

Thorp1165

Welcome to TFP

I am in the process of using Clean to Green to kill the algae (calls for shocking the pool three times in 24 hours after adding the product, first shock was already done.)

I would cease using Clean to Green (or is it Green to Clean?) or anything other than liquid bleach / liquid chlorine to kill the algae.

I am in the process of using Clean to Green to kill the algae (calls for shocking the pool three times in 24 hours after adding the product, first shock was already done.)

Shocking is a process and not a product (see The Shock Process link in my sig for a more detailed description). You need to keep FC within the recommended shock range for your CYA (see Chlorine / CYA Chart link in my sig). You will likely need to test more than 3 times a day to make sure the FC stays within the shock target for your CYA.