Opening Test Results - Unusual!

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fredder9

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May 23, 2013
49
Rockwood, Michigan
Been taking care of a pool for 12 years, sometimes with issues, so finding this forum is great!
I have a Loop Loc cover, so the water is always green when opening.
Been three days. Shocked all the green out of it but VERY cloudy.
Any additional chlorine I add in turns milky white for a while, which is something I've never experienced!
I currently have it in recirculation and poured in de-floc. Soon I will turn off and let sit for 24 hours.
I got test results from local Bio-Guard dealer. I will test myself soon buy my Taylor kit plastic tube part is old and worn so not trusting it.
I was interested in CYA, that is why I took water to be tested.
All chlorine I put in is basically eaten up immediately. It's never taken me so much chlorine (di-chlor granules and Bio-Guard Smart Shock) to get the green out.
I did learn the lesson about de-floc a few years ago so not surprised to have to do this.
My results:
FC = 0.3
CC = 10
pH = 7.6
TA = 192 (although my dip strips say it's fine so not sure what to trust here, will test again)
CH = 194
CYA = 71 (although my dip strips say it way low so that is why I went to the pool store to start with)

So...I think what I am working on is the free chlorine / combined chlorine issue AFTER this defloc and vacuum to waste is complete. I've never had that so out of whack.

I would appreciate any advice for what to do next after I get through the de-floc. Will de-flock alone help the CC problem?

Also, I appeciate the recommended levels on the forum...but why are they so different from what Bio-Guard recommends? Specifically for CYA they say 30-200 (versus 30-50), for TA they say 125-150 (versus 70-90...or 100-120 for dichlor like I use), for CH they say 200-275 (versus 250-350).

I have always thought I maintained perfect chemistry...but more years than not I have battled algae (builds up in "crevices" on the pool surface) after the halfway point of the season. I am very interested in doing things this year like the Pool School says because I'd like to get back to the trouble free years like when the pool was 0 - 5 years old.

Thanks in advance for any help on next steps with my specific issues, and insight on the recommended levels. Thanks!!
 
Welcome to the forum. :lol: You are throwing things at your pool when you are not sure of the outcome. We'll help you get more consistent if you are willing.

Pool store testing is almost as bad as the strips you have and they are worthless.

If you like, we can assume the pool store tests are right (they likely are not) and advise you based on that but a better way is to get your own good test kit and test precisely and we'll help/guide you into an understanding of what to do about those accurate test results.

read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School.....that's the best place to get a good start.
 
The first thing you need to do is get your own good test kit. Strips are useless and pool store tests are even more useless most of the time.

The CYA test is one that the pool stores are most bad at, so I wouldn't believe that result. As much dichlor as you've added I'll be very surprised if your CYA isn't astronomical.

With a CC of 10 you need to go through the shock process outlined in Pool School, but you'll need a good test kit to do that.

The levels you find here are what's known to work. If you decide to follow the recommendations here you'll be able to go a whole forever without an algae outbreak. And once you get accustomed to doing it correctly, it's really easy to do it the correct way.
 
Welcome to the forum :wave:

Yep, you need a good test kit. This is the BEST thing you can do for your pool. The fav around here is the TF100. Best bang for the buck. Link in my sig.

I have always thought I maintained perfect chemistry...but more years than not I have battled algae (builds up in "crevices" on the pool surface) after the halfway point of the season. I am very interested in doing things this year like the Pool School says because I'd like to get back to the trouble free years like when the pool was 0 - 5 years old.
Click to expand...
We see this all the time. This brings folks to the forum looking for answers. If you follow our method, your pool will not suffer with algae. There will be no interruption of swimming in your pool this summer :-D

You have come to the right place :goodjob:
 
Welcome, Fredder9! You are just north of me. I'm in Grand Rapids. Listen to these folks--they are spot on! Run fast & run far from the pool store.. I joined up 2 yrs. ago & my water has never been better. Snatched up a great test kit (TF100) and took control of my pool. If you want some help PM me & we can probably work something out to test your water until you get a kit. I'd be happy to help.
 
Yes I do plan to do things the "pool school" way.
I have a Taylor K-2005 test kit that I always used before I "simplified" a couple years ago.
I woke up this morning and the de-floc was completely ineffective.
On a somber note, my father passed away last night so the next few days are gonna be chaos so not sure I'll be able to do everything right.
Any solid advice on how to get through this quickly I will surely follow.
I will try the "pm" way also for DebbieO who offered that.
Thank you.
 
I am very sorry for your loss. My prayers and condolences go to you and your family.

Don't even give thought to the pool. Take care of yourself and your family and the pool will be there when you get ready.
 
Re: Opening Test Results - Unusual -- MILKY WHITE?

Thank you for your kind thoughts on my fathers passing. I have not been able to check back in here, or really keep up with dealing with my pool for a couple days other than throwing chlorine granules at it in significant quantities without much thought behind it. Today is last day of visitation and tomorrow the funeral. I expect Wednesday the pool can become something to keep my mind occupied.
We have extremely hot weather coming up next week so I'm hoping to get this solved soon. My pool is a source of gathering for family so I'm disappointed I'm having this trouble this year because I know once this is over they would want to be here. Start up has never been an issue.

IF ANYONE KNOWS ANYONE IN SE MICHIGAN NEAR MONROE, 27 MILES UP I-75 FROM OHIO BORDER THAT I COULD PAY TO DEAL WITH THIS I WOULD!!!

Failing that, here is the status:

I have no more green. The de-floc wasn't as effective as I'm used to. The water is still pretty cloudy but I can now see the drains in the deep end so I know I've made some progress even if I haven't been good about keeping a "shock level" because of my other activities.

The most confusing thing to me that I haven't been able to research or post about is that when I put chlorine in the water turn milky white. After a few minutes, this white will rise to the top and look like ice flows on a river in spring....some small, some large....just floating around. After about 15 or 20 minutes, these clear up. This has NEVER happened. I am going to test the water and post the results but if you know anything about this I sure am curious. Any time I test there is no FC....heck even a couple hours after putting 6 bags of Bio-Guard shock there is no FC. I know I'll be told about shock level I just haven't been able to keep up with that yet and wish there was somthing quick I could do. The milky white seems to be the key clue to my problem.

Right now I'm using the last of my di-chlor granules as well as my bags of powdered shock. I plan to pick up liquid chlorine today which I haven't used because of convenience. I'll try that, but not sure I'll stick with that because of the size of my pool and having to deal with the containers.

While I do have a decent test kit, my reagents are certainly not "fresh" (heck, some I've had for years!). I am ordering the TFT-100 with magnetic stirrer online and will be using that when it arrives.

Any clues about the milky white and what to do over the next couple days without a lot of thought until I am past the funeral stuff I would appreciate.
 

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So sorry for your loss.

I think you should stop throwing di-chlor in the pool until you get your test kit and just use bleach for now. I know you said you want to use it up but I'm thinking you are exacerbating the problem by adding to your CYA which is probably already very high. If you can, look at the CYA/Chlorine chart in Pool School. Once you hit a high CYA, you need more chlorine to get the job done. You really need a good test kit so you can test on your own and report back to us so we can help you. If your CYA is high, you'll need to do a partial drain and refill to bring that down. Without a good test kit though, we are all clueless. We don't want you throwing the kitchen sink in there.
 
Just returned from my fathers funeral...so can do a little pool work as a distraction now.
My pool water is miraculously clear (I did dump in the last 5 ounces of that "clear blue" clarifier I had from Bi-Guard last night), though I'm sure the chemistry is all messed up so that is what I will work on "The Pool School" way.
My hope is that come mid-July I won't deal with the algae getting into the crevices of a 12 year old plaster pool, and I won't have red slime (bacteria) or mustard algae that I've battled from time to time throughout the years. I think I've had one trouble-free pool year in the last half-dozen, so I would LOVE to get to that every year.
I am completely out of di-chlor now, heading to the local feed&grain store that also sells 12% liquid chlorine (bleach) in returnable bottles.
I'll get two cases. I'll start the schock process without yet having the perfect test kit.
I just ordered the TF-100 from TestKits.Net with the magnetic stirrer option. I look forward to receiving it in a few days.
The filter is running continously.
We'll go from here and I will post test results as soon as I have something I have some faith in.
 
Test results using old, old Taylor K-2005 test kit (until my new one comes).
FC = 0
CC = 1.5
pH = 7
(11 drops base demand to get to 7.4, but don't know what that is telling me just yet)
Alkalinity = 160
(though I don't trust the reagents because sample turned blue instead of green, then yellow instead of red -- maybe not fresh reagents)
CH - could not test because my reagent was so old that I could not get a drop out of a never used bottle!
CYA = 4.5
(though I don't understand this because it tells to fill until black dot disappears and read "liguid level" and top of tube is only 9 so how the heck could I ever get a reading of 30-50?)
(also pool store said it was 71....but by strips said it was low...so I guess this is still a big blank for me.

Anyway....just swagged a shock level of 12 so put in 128 ounces of bleach.
Going to go play hockey, we'll see what it says in a couple hours.
Any advice I'm all ears....the new test kit is on the way in a few days though. Wondering about the whole CYA and small comparator tube "liquid level" thing.
 
Re: Opening Test Results - First Sensible Test Readings

OK. Found the very tiny marking on the CYA tube on my Taylor 2005 kit and using bleach have got to this point.
FC = 1.0
TC = 1.0 so TC-FC = CC = 0.0
pH = 7.4
TA = 120
CYA = 70 - 80 (somewhere in between there).

Water looks OK. I know I gotta get the FC up and stay up now and for CYA in the 70 - 80 range needs to be Min FC = 5; Target = 8; Shock FC = 28.
I'm gonna do another shock here.
Question on CYA. Should I try to get it down? I know that means dumping water and refilling.
If I don't get it down, it means min FC=5 and Target=8. Is that gonna be OK for kids swimming? Don't want to burn their eyes out!
If things work the way I'm thinking, must be the CYA that eventually rendered my chlorine ineffective late in the season and/or I wasn't maintaining high enough level to battle stuff.
Should I now NOT use any algaecides? Or, given my situation would it be smart to use algaecides and keep FC lower? I know this wouldn't be the "pool school way"....but, just askin'!!

Thanks.
 
Yes, with CYA that high you were not likely maintaining proper FC levels to sanitize properly. Once algae started it would be very difficult to raise FC to shock levels.

CYA of 70/80 and the FC target and MIN are perfectly fine for swimming. You can swim up to shock levels of FC. It would be a good idea to get CYA down to 30-50 via water replacement. You "can" manage FC levels with CYA that high but should you need to shock it will take a ton of bleach to get to shock levels and keep them there.

Algaecide is not needed as long as you keep your FC levels to target and don't let get below MIN. If it drops below MIN, you are asking for something to grow in your water whether you can see it or not. The single most important thing to do with your pool is never let FC drop below the minimum for measured CYA.
 
Whatever the recommended FC is for your CYA is perfectly safe to swim in. In fact it's safe to swim up to the shock level for your CYA.

We don't recommend algaecides because it's just a waste of money. Keep the FC at the recommended level and it will be fine.
 
OK. I am dealing after effects of funeral stuff so not on this hourly, doing he best I can.
At 8:30am this morning I posted FC=1.0; CC=0.0; pH=7.4; TA=120; CYA=70-80
I then followed pool calculator and put in 5 gallon jugs of 12% liguid chlorine...then had to leave to tend to things.
At 6:30pm my readings are now FC=3.0; CC=0.0; pH=7.0; TA=130; CYA=70-80
I have plenty of liquid chlorine. What should I do now? Go to shock level again?
I have one bottle of de-floc left from my old days...since it would be good to lose some water and try to get that CYA down, I'm thinking maybe I'll go ahead and use that and then vacuum to waste in the morning.
Doing that, I would lose probably only 15% of the volume of the pool...unless I let more go. I don't know that I want to drain way too much water that I just have to refill.
My heater is on and the pool water temp is now 79 degrees.
Would appreciate knowing what to do as last act for the night....then first act in the morning. I will be away most of day again tomorrow after morning action with pool like I was today.
Thank you for continued help.
 

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