Wiring/Breaker Size for Sub-Panel

May 19, 2013
2
Hello.
I'm soon to have our new 14x28 in ground vinyl lined pool installed.
A shed aprox 8 feet from the pool’s edge will be installed hosting a sub-panel. I will be doing the wiring myself. Shed is ~40’ from the house.
My question is regarding wire size and breaker sizing; I’m reading mixed things around the wonder WWW.
What I’m planning: adding 60 AMP double to my existing panel in the house. Running 6-3 PVC Jacket - 600 Volt PVC/Nylon Insulation - 90°C UL Type TC - with Ground ER Rated Tray Cable to the shed. In the shed will be a 100 AMP rated sub-panel. Equipment is a 95,000 BTU electric heat pump, 1HP pool pump, 2 LED pool lights, and salt chlorinator.
In the sub-panel is a 40 AMP double for the heater and 15 AMP double for the pump and 15 AMP single for the salt and pool lights okay? Would this over load the 60 Amp in the house panel, I was assuming no as not everything is running a full draw.

Also any advise on a GFI within this mix and any grounding plates if you please.

Thanks in advance.
 
The 6/3 will be fine, but I think I'd go ahead and run #4 if you think you'll ever add any more stuff to it.

You'll either need for one of the main breakers to be GFI or each of the individual breakers to be. I'd go with the individual breakers as if one trips it won't shut down the whole panel.
 
If it were me, I'd put a 100 amp breaker in the main and run that out there instead of 60 amp. You;ll need bigger wire, but in the long run you wont be limited on power.

Not sure on the wire either. The ground wire feeding a subpanel for a pool needs to be insulated. Not sure what you described has an insulated ground.
 
There is limit to how many amps to put thru a 6/3 and or 4/3.

On 6/3 it is 70 amps and that more than enough for any pool and or spa combo, don's add up the circuit breakers and think you need that size main, just look at you main house panel most always add up to more than the sum of the breakers, because you never draw power to all at the same time.

I would use a 6/3 with a 70amp in the main service panel to the sub,

just did it and was approved with UL cert.
 
Thanks for the feedback so far, always helpful.

One thing I should mention is that my current home panel is only 100AMP service. With putting in a 60AMP double to my sub-panel (or a 70AMP double) am I asking for trouble or does this fall under the "not everything runs at full draw and at the same time".


Thanks!
 
Nova13 said:
just did it and was approved with UL cert.


Nova13, just wondered what you meant by "approved with UL cert". I've heard of using UL listed electrical components but I haven't heard of getting a UL cert approval on a wiring job. Does this mean your local authority approved your work. Thanks.
 
gtemkin said:
Nova13 said:
just did it and was approved with UL cert.


Nova13, just wondered what you meant by "approved with UL cert". I've heard of using UL listed electrical components but I haven't heard of getting a UL cert approval on a wiring job. Does this mean your local authority approved your work. Thanks.

Yes, part of the building permit included a underwriter stop by an then issue a cert, It will be forwarded to my insurance Co.
 
Nova13 said:
Yes, part of the building permit included a underwriter stop by an then issue a cert, It will be forwarded to my insurance Co.

I think the underwriter who visited and the certificate issued relates to your mortgage and home insurance but not UL, which is a trademarked designation and stands for Underwriters Laboratories, a non-profit organization that issues safety standards and performs tests on manufacturer's products among many other things. In other words, someone who has the occupation of underwriter doesn't necessarily have any association with UL; and a certificate from an underwriter is very much different than a certificate from UL.
 

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