The blue lagoon..

May 21, 2013
48
First, I cannot give you numbers at this given time, but I can get them asap. What I can tell you, is that I had the water tested and the only number that was out of whack, was the FC. Upon getting these numbers, my local pool supply gave me a 5 gallon jug of chlorine and told me to put this all in.
The back story: I opened the pool and could see all the way to the bottom. I could see a few leaves and settled dirt, but I could definitely see the liner, MOST of the liner. The pump, was not the prettiest sounding thing when I turned it on (hayward super pump). I toyed the idea of rebuilding the pump which would be a first time thing for me, however, I am mechanically inclined and smart in my opinion (maybe more determined than smart :? ) Anyway, after much fighting with it, I gave up and decided to just buy an AO Smith replacement. After installing the pump and finding the bottom of my skimmer still plugged (new pool owner), I unplugged it and was able to get flow. My skimmer has 2 pipes and my local pool store said that sight unseen, the higher pipe in the skimmer is probably not in use and could be capped as it serves no purpose. I'm not 100% certain they are right, but I capped it and noticed no change in operation, so maybe... One issue I noticed at this point was that the stair return worked great, but the only other return does nothing. I plan to try a little pressure test with my shop-vac after I wake up from slumber since I work nights. Even without the 2nd return working, the pool gets pretty fast circulation. Now, when I turn the pump on and the pump is trying to get prime, it will suck the skimmer dry faster than the pool can refill the cavity (which is absolutely astonishing to me). To counter this, I raised the water level to roughly 3/4's of the skimmer height. I feel like I have so much to tell and I know I am going to lose sight of my point and bounce around so please bare with me. Anyway, I had ordered a summer opening kit sized for a 30k I/G pool (which I think was undersized in actuality). Prior to adding any of the chemicals, I ventured to my local pool store to get some insight on the proper opening of pools and how much chemicals, proper filter setting and the whole 9. They told me that since my pool had endured tropical storm Irene and Sandy, and the fact that the local fire department had come and sucked the water out of the pool and refilled with fresh, that there still very well could be a lot of river mud somewhere in the pool ( I live 5 houses uphill from a river that flooded my home prior to owning it). now if you can recall, you would remember that I said I could see the bottom of the pool quite well in the beginning of my pool opening task. Upon circulating the pool, I rapidly lost sight of the bottom, I couldn't see a foot beneath the surface at this point.
I left the store with 1 gallon of algaecide 2 bags of super shock specially formulated for heavy algae, and 5 gallons of chlorine. The bags of shock were not to be used right away, they were an afterwards thing according to my pool store. The pool store told me to add the 4 bags of shock, the entire 1 liter of algaecide that came in the opening kit, as well as the 1 gallon of algaecide they sold me, and lastly, the entire 5 gallons of chlorine. I added all these things and it didn't touch it. This is just about where the story is all caught up. Each time I got to the store, I end up getting a new 5 gallon jug of chlorine and I feel like this is a never ending process. I even toyed the idea of putting a sump in and draining some of the water as I fill it. I am lost at this point...
 
Welcome to the forum.

You may have capped your main drain line in the skimmer. Try running with the second hole uncapped.

You are being pool-stored. In spit eof their claim of expertise, most of them are worse than clueless. They use bad information and will give you instructions that are bad for your pool.

The important thing when adding chlorine is to maintain a consistent level and don't give the algae time to recover between additions. That means you need to test hourly at first.

Check out these articles

Defeating Algae

Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis

Shocking Your Pool
 
Welcome Bobby! Be glad you found this site this year, and early in the season to boot!

Once you read those articles John listed above, you are going to come to the realization that you need to be able to test your pool regularly and during the shocking process perhaps even hourly. You need to buy yourself a test kit. There are two options that will allow you to test everything you need and test chlorine at the levels your pools needs right now to kill the stuff in it. This pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison will clue you in.

This website is about teaching YOU how to take care of your pool by YOURSELF. It seems like to me most people end up saving a TON of money doing it the way this website teaches. I got lucky and found this place while i was planning my pool, and consequently have had no issues i couldn't handle.

Are you a memeber of a photo sharing site like photobucket.com? Can you take and post some pictures of your pool/equipment especially that skimmer..... You'll want to know what size your filter is eventually.
 
I just did a test strip test, and although it is not as precise, here is what I have... P.H. 8.4 (max for test), FC 5 (high end of the ok range for test), TA 240 or off the charts for test and cya 100-125. I plan to buy a new testing kit like the ones mentioned above, but my confusion at this point is that the pool store had me put so much of everything in that I dont know which step to take now. I backwash 2-3 times daily, I brush the sides and the side angles and I was instructed to run the pump 24/7 (as I am) with at least 1 backwash per day. They said "backwash until the water coming out is as clear as possible, then switch to rinse (same routine) and then finally back to recirc. I have been doing this so often that I can't maintain a level in the pool. I will add some pictures as soon as my phone works properly (just did a factory reset because it wont link to my pc for nothing I have tried). I read all the links you included up above and I guess for me, the thing that concerns me is chemical measurements and handling of said chemicals (I make very dangerous chemicals at work so this part concerns me) How do I know what the measurements are when trying to add so I can maintain certain levels and such?! If chlorine comes in a 5 gallon jug, am I transferring to a more manageable container? Isn't transferring chemicals a bad idea all the way around?
Lastly, I purchased a chlorine tab distributor. Should I have a tab in this and floating at all times during this shock process?
 
Running with such high CYA requires very high chlorine levels. You need to be around 40ppm to shock the pool. The only way to measure that is with an FAS-DPD kit.
 
bobby32x said:
should I invest in the chlorine tabs? I will need them eventually, but I don't want to add to my confusion during the shocking process

Your CYA is already too high, and the tabs will add to it rapidly. You should stick with liquid chlorine only.
 
bobby32x said:
How do I know what the measurements are when trying to add so I can maintain certain levels and such?!

You use this handy dandy calculator http://www.poolcalculator.com/ You input your pool volume, then your current and target levels, and it tells you how much of each chemical would be needed to add to get your levels to your target. It doesn't tell you in which order to adjust chemicals.

You can do some more reading up on the chemicals here pool-school/recommended_pool_chemicals
 
ok, so here are a few pics and I am sure one will perk your interests...

IMAG0004.jpg
[/url][/img] Sand filter S-244T

IMAG0001.jpg
[/url][/img] the color of the water passing over the steps for reference.

IMAG0005.jpg
[/url][/img] Hayward super pump replacement pump from AO Smith 1 hp

IMAG0006.jpg
[/url][/img] and... the reason my 2nd return is not returning. I am currently draining the pool below the level of the jets so I can make certain this pipe is free flowing and that (And I hope) the T where this tied in let loose over a long period of hot, cold, hot, cold and so on... Once this stops draining and dries, I will uncap the T and try a glue join on this setup, I will then give it the appropriate curing time before firing it up, or even filling it up for that matter. The pool algae is going to suffer, but what am I to do? I will post back with more current info as things change.

Also, I forgot to mention and I will add this just for reference as well. This home, though I did not purchase it off of my uncle, was at one time owned by my uncle and his ex wife. This dates back to somewhere in the late 60's and they were married for 25 years. I point this out because he was the installer of the pool (the money portion, not the actual work), so that might give a slight indication of the age of the pool and the piping and what have you.
An even more neat fact is that my father told me that my grandfather rented my home when my father was quite young (prior to my uncle owning it) and the price of rent was 36 dollars. The landlord raised the rent to 39 dollars and that was enough to make my grandfather pack up the family and leave lol
 
also, not knowing much about pools and coping, the pool store near my house told me that the coping is attached to the liner (which I believe), and they said if I remove any section of the coping, the liner will collapse. Is this true? I would like to eventually redo the cement around the pool but I do not want to rebuild my pool as they described. In the pictures I think what you see if the original coping ( a square piece of metal decking), with a more current coping that was installed with the new liner. I am ok with building the concrete under the coping so it has a place to rest on and be mounted to. I plan to have concrete stamping around the pool. Just trying to do my research
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
ok, I have repaired the plumbing and it looks like the repair is holding. I would like a full day where there is no rain to make certain that I am not leaking anywhere. I suppose I can let the pool circulate and see if it loses water over time. I know what you guys said about the CYA being really high and that I needed liquid chlorine to counter this for shocking my pool, but should I be putting in a non copper based algaecide during the shock process? I ask because I feel like the water has a blue hue, not so much a green color, which makes me feel like it may have black algae and from what I read, I understand this is the worst type of algae to have because it is very stubborn. is there a such thing as too much algaecide?
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.