Aquarite Chlorine Generator Power Light Only

May 21, 2013
8
If my power light is on, but no other lights are on, and my cell is good, but my system is not generating chlorine, what's the most likely problem? I have a Goldline Aquarite chlorine generator which is 9 years old. I've seen posts about zero lights on, but not with just the power light on. The pool store I go to says my salt level is fine and the panel reads 2600.

My readings are as follows:

2600
76
32.5
0.00
94p
0
AL-7
r1.33

Pool shop says the board is bad. But I've been reading about the current limiter. Should I just replace that?
 
The cell is 2 years old. Also, I had it tested and the pool store that sold it to me said it's still good. I'll try to bump up the salt and see what happens.

Which number is the amp reading? Limiter looks good...no cracks but I haven't pulled the board out.

I did not mention that the readout shows 2600 no matter what position the off, auto and superchlorinate switch is at. Is that normal?

Thanks!
 
Hi Chris 640,

The problem you describe is a classic blown fuse. Check the fuse on the control box, on a unit 9 years old it may be on the bottom of the box on the right hand side, there will be a black cap that says "fuse." If you don't have the fuse at the bottom of the box then the fuse will be on the main circuit board, it will be a mini fuse and have a yellow cap and it will be located on the right side of the circuit board.

The numbers your unit is displaying tell me the unit is not making chlorine. Whenever you want to get your readings always turn the output to 100%. By the numbers your gave us you have it set at 94%. The percentage is the percentage of time the unit will spend making chlorine based on a 200 minute cycle. They only time the unit will take a salt reading is while it is making chlorine. Your unit is not making chlorine so the display will not change until you get the unit to begin to "generate" chlorine.

Let me know if that solves your problem.

Jim Garrison
The Guru of Pools
 
The picture in your link you can see at the corners of the PCB there is a yellow wire (left) and a orange wire (right) going down behind the board. Those two wires lead to the fuse holder. On that model the fuse holder is mounted to the box, so that it's accessable from outside without having to take the front cover off. The fuse access will be on the bottom next to the flow switch connection. (that's how my hold board was set up)

The black circle partially obscured by the salt cell cable is where the fuse holder was.
SWG_underside.jpg




I replaced the board with an updated version where the fuse is on the PCB. This link shows the fuse, orange and yellow wires. My issue in this post was with one of the contacts being burt going to the fuse. You may also want to check those connections.

aqua-rite-no-power-wasn-t-cl-or-k1-relay-t47305.html

CLB
 
Hi Jim...I pulled the fuse out and the power light went off, so I assume the fuse is good. I replaced it while the unit was on which may have screwed things up because now it says "Errr 2" and the lights flash. At least I know it's not the fuse. Well, at least I know it's not the fuse. :/
 

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