Aqualogic Losing Time?

[tagprod]

The time setting on my aqualogic control panel keeps changing
It's hard to get the pumps to run at the right time when the time keeps changing any ideas?

 

[Bama Rambler]

I'd call Hayward and see what they say. I don't see a reference to one in the manual but a lot of units have a battery backup for the time and if that little battery gets low it throws the timeclock off.

 

[tagprod]

Yeah, I think I will do that. I searched TFP and didn't see anything so I thought this was a weird thing. I will update my findings

 

[tagprod]

According to Hayward, my problem is indicative of a bad board - need to replace it.

 

[jblizzle]

That is pretty disappointing that the clock can go bad and require a new board ... wonder if there is an easy fix like the current limiter (which Hayward also recommends a new board)

 

[mas985]

According to Hayward, my problem is indicative of a bad board - need to replace it.

How much time are you losing? Mine loses a few minutes over the month but it really isn't a bit deal. I just don't think the units keep time very well and I am not sure it would improve with a new board.

 

[tagprod]

6 to 12 hours in a day or two.

 

[mas985]

Yea, that's not normal. I would check the solder joints on the board since that seems to be the biggest issue with the Goldline units.

 

[tagprod]

Got it swapped. Hardest part was paying for it

 

[Frankvann]

By luck I found the problem for clock losing time. On the board it has a capacitor on the left top corner, it's like a double battery in wrap. You can buy on Ebay for about $3 and 5 mins to replace it. After replacement you run for 1 hr it will charge the battery and walahh, your pool back in business. Good luck.

 

[wmchardy]

Frankvann,

I seem to be experiencing the same problem with my Hayward Aqua Logic (#956001A[L]); losing 3 - 4 hours a day. I am interested in the "capacitor" solution. Do you have any further details regarding which capacitor to get? I don't like the thought of spending over $700 on a new mother board. LOL Any help will be appreciated.

Will

 

[Kered5]

Frankvann,

I seem to be experiencing the same problem with my Hayward Aqua Logic (#956001A[L]); losing 3 - 4 hours a day. I am interested in the "capacitor" solution. Do you have any further details regarding which capacitor to get? I don't like the thought of spending over $700 on a new mother board. LOL Any help will be appreciated.

Will

I have exactly the same issue with my unit. From looking at the board, I am assuming that he means C3 which is a small electrolytic cap at the top left. Not sure of the value....but it sure looks like it's blown on my board!!

 

[Kered5]

FYI...It's 0.33uF 5.5V.

 

[Kered5]

Correction. It's a SUPER Capacitor 0.33F !

 

[PoolNewbie99]

Correction. It's a SUPER Capacitor 0.33F !

Did replacing the super capacitor .33F work? My clock is barely keeping time. My clock changes maybe 1 or 2 minutes in a 24 hr period. Thanks.

 

[powersof12]

So, my Aqualogic GLX/PCB/Main is doing the same thing. Random time loss each day.

I did find Digikey.com has the mentioned capacitor for $4.00 ([FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]‎283-2814-ND‎ [/FONT]‎KR-5R5V334-R‎) but I need to take my board off and look at it closer before I know it is really a 5.0V / .33 uF Super Cap. So, I am not recommending anything yet until I dig deeper.

C3 - Supercap
X2 - Date / Time 32.768 kHz
U2 - Real Time Clock (I am guessing)

Probably an old +5V logic circuit board but I need to measure.

There is conformal spray coating (for water protection) all over the circuit board so I can't read the chip parts clearly from my photo. This is going to take me a bit because I like to take my pool apart after the cycle each day and not interrupt it.

 

[powersof12]

So, I have confirmed a few things. (lost 10 minutes on the clock over night)

1) U1-Microprocessor is PIC18F2620 (28 pin version)
2) U2-Real Time Clock is DS1302Z
3) C3-Super Cap is 5v and .33UF

My super Cap was near 5V and I cleaned a little corrosion off with rubbing alcohol. I am going to let it run all night and see if that made any difference. If not, tomorrow I will take my digital O-Scope out and see how often the microprocessor is reading from the real time clock chip.

 

[powersof12]

One more thing, I am pretty sure the 32.768 kHz Crystal (X2) is an Epson MC-306 / 6 pF (SER4099CT-ND at Digikey) and costs $.046

The Dallas / Maxim RTC part (U2) is $3.50 at Digikey (DS1302Z+CT-ND)

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, dk]The microprocessor is most likely fine and we can't replace that anyways because it is factory programmed with software. [/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, dk]My gut says a little capacitance problem on the crystal X2 would be a larger problem than the super cap (which should just be used for power loss situations).[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, dk]Not sure of my plan yet...[/FONT]

 

[powersof12]

Ok, cleaning the circuit with Iso-Propyl Alcohol did not work. So, I order the super capacitor, real time clock, and 32 kHz crystal from Digikey and replaced them today on my soldering bench. The pool is back running but until it makes it one week without losing time, I won't know if it is fixed. Be back in One Week hopefully.

- - - Updated - - -

 

[powersof12]

Been three days with not a single minute of time lost. Now to see how many days, weeks, or months the fix works. I may help my pool guy fix some since he replaces these once in a while for time loss. I will buy a heat gun and some more conformal coating spray for water proofing the repair. Note: This is not an easy soldering job if you are not used to surface mount parts, don't try it. I may also buy a few 0.1uF 0805 (maybe 0603) capacitors because the bypass cap (C14) on the real time clock was a bit corroded too.