I have a small (5800 gal) indoor pool. What chemicals do I need to control the chlorine and for shocking? Is there a different chlorine for indoor vs outdoor pools? I have no windows or sunlight hitting the pool.
Indoor Pool
- Thread starter JimT
- Start date
Indoor pools are basically the same as outdoor pools, with a few minor exceptions
Read pool school (link in the upper right), and follow the suggested levels for everything but CYA stabilizer, for CYA you want to keep your level between 20-30 ppm (you need some CYA in an indoor pool to buffer the active chlorine, helps prevent unwanted bleaching, etc, it is hard to measure CYA accurately at below 20-30 ppm so while 5 or 10 ppm would likely be enough indoors running 20-30 ppm makes for less testing headaches)
The second thing you may need with a small indoor pool is supplemental oxidation to remove CC since you have no UV light to help out. Here you have 3 options (2 equipment based and 1 chemical), you can either install a flow through UV sanitizer, or an Ozonator (comes in 2 types UV and CD (Cornona discharge) expect either one to cost $500+ for a pool your size, or you can use MPS based chlorine free shock at around $5 per pound. How much MPS you would need is hard to estimate, but I would guess you could get away with about 1/2 pound per use, and would be needed likely somewhere between once per week and once every couple of months as determined by slight CC build up when doing regular testing. (there are special test for MPS shock as it shows up as CC on regular FAS-DPD test, thankfully it does vanish after a couple of days, so the special test is only needed within the couple of day window around time of its use)
Beyond that treat your indoor pool much like you would an outdoor pool
Ike
p.s. note Chlorine consumption will be much lower with an indoor pool, mine uses around a quart per day of 6% bleach during swim season
Read pool school (link in the upper right), and follow the suggested levels for everything but CYA stabilizer, for CYA you want to keep your level between 20-30 ppm (you need some CYA in an indoor pool to buffer the active chlorine, helps prevent unwanted bleaching, etc, it is hard to measure CYA accurately at below 20-30 ppm so while 5 or 10 ppm would likely be enough indoors running 20-30 ppm makes for less testing headaches)
The second thing you may need with a small indoor pool is supplemental oxidation to remove CC since you have no UV light to help out. Here you have 3 options (2 equipment based and 1 chemical), you can either install a flow through UV sanitizer, or an Ozonator (comes in 2 types UV and CD (Cornona discharge) expect either one to cost $500+ for a pool your size, or you can use MPS based chlorine free shock at around $5 per pound. How much MPS you would need is hard to estimate, but I would guess you could get away with about 1/2 pound per use, and would be needed likely somewhere between once per week and once every couple of months as determined by slight CC build up when doing regular testing. (there are special test for MPS shock as it shows up as CC on regular FAS-DPD test, thankfully it does vanish after a couple of days, so the special test is only needed within the couple of day window around time of its use)
Beyond that treat your indoor pool much like you would an outdoor pool
Ike
p.s. note Chlorine consumption will be much lower with an indoor pool, mine uses around a quart per day of 6% bleach during swim season
