Another Green Pool Problem...please help

[lonestargal]

So I've been using the BBB method for the last 2 summers and it has worked fairly well. I haven't bought the test kits you all recommend on here yet because I had just bought a large testing kit and wanted to use that up first, I hate to waste things. Also my local pool store has computerized testing that is really awesome. Anyways, this last winter I made the HUGE mistake of not winterizing our pool. We got super busy with kids sports which included a lot of out of town travelling and basically life just got in the way. Well next thing I know we are having freeze warnings so to save my pipes I did use marine antifreeze but no other chemicals were placed in the pool and not even our brand new $1200 cover was used.
Now spring time has arrived and trying to get the pool ready for the kids and it is literally a swamp. I have tried getting as many leaves as possible out (still a daily chore) without being able to see the bottom though, it's pretty difficult. I have spent about $300 on shock, bleach, baking soda, etc. to try and get this pool cleared up. It has gone from a yucky, smelly, blackish/greenish swamp to just green and not smelly. I've brushed the sides I can't tell you how many times. I don't know what else to do from here. According to the pool store computer, my levels are as follows:
13,000 gal vinyl inground pool
PH 8.0 (just added bleach though)
ALK 120
CYA 60
Total CL 10 (again just shocked)
FC 0

I cannot seem to keep the FC level up at all. Like I said I have spent approx $300 mostly on bleach/shock and it's not helping at all. I'm beginning to think my only option is to drain and refill but I'm REALLY hesitant about that due to the severe drought we are in. We are on water restrictions so that could present a problem. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[257WbyMag]

Welcome to TFP!

You need to obtain a test kit that has a FAS-DPD chlorine test. That's why we recommend the test kits that we do...because they have them. Pool store testing is woefully inaccurate, even if it is computerized. Years of experience here points to this fact. Their testing is geared towards making money off of you and not helping you.

The reason that your chlorine won't hold is because you have algae and your chlorine is getting consumed as fast as you can add it. The only way to stop this cycle is to kill the algae and this takes time, brushing, chlorine, and patience.

You need to get your pH down to 7.2-7.4 with acid. Then you need to shock your pool. If your CYA is truly 60, then shocking means getting your FC to 24 and holding it there until your pool clears, your FC drops no more than 1 ppm overnight, and your CC is 0.5 or less.

Unless you test the way we teach and use the correct products to shock, you will continue to dump money into your pool and not get anywhere with it. Please get yourself a dependable test kit (www.tftestkits.net), read Pool School, and follow the instructions therein. Then, you'll get swimming again. See the following stickies for further info.

pool-school/defeating_algae
turning-your-green-swamp-back-into-a-sparkling-oasis-t4147.html

 

[lonestargal]

Thanks for your reply. I noticed you're in North Texas, I am too. :-D
The test kit I have does test the FAS-DPD chlorine but it's just not the kit that is recommended here. Very possible I need a new one. I have found that even though I'm lucky and my local pool store has VERY knowledgable people (unlike what I've found at Leslie's) they do ALWAYS try to sell me very expensive products. My husband is about ready to fill in the pool with dirt lol.
When I did the shock, I was adding bleach up to 18 not 24 so that could be part of my problem. I'm just afraid of ruining my liner too, just replaced that last summer so with spending $3,000 on that my husband would kill me if I bleached and ruined it.

 

[BoDarville]

Welcome to TFP, fellow Texan (assuming you live in TX judging by your pen name)

I cannot seem to keep the FC level up at all. Like I said I have spent approx $300 mostly on bleach/shock and it's not helping at all.

To begin with, shocking is not a one-time dose of high amounts of chlorine. If you're doing a daily dose of chlorine and calling that shocking, every penny spent on chlorine is wasted. Click on The Shock Process in my sig to see how to properly shock. You may need to test and dose hourly when you first begin the shock process. Plus, with a CYA of 60, you need to have FC of ~24 ppm at all times until you pass the criteria for ending the shock process.

So, I would definitely not drain & refill. Instead, I would read The Shock Process and follow it to a T. It may take several days, perhaps even a week, to get things cleaned up but it will work if the process is properly followed.

 

[257WbyMag]

Ok, as long as you do have a FAS-DPD and not the plain DPD test, you should be good.

You won't damage your liner as long as your FC level is appropriate for the CYA level and the pump is on and the water is circulating when you add it.

pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

You could shock at 18, it's just going to take a lot longer. 24 is best for a CYA of 60. And shocking doesn't mean just bringing your FC up once. It means bringing the FC up to shock and continually adding FC to replace what is lost until you are finished shocking. You have to take the offensive and close the deal. If you bump it up to shock level once and then let it go, you really have wasted your chlorine because you will need to start over. Keep attacking it until you meet the "you know you're finished shocking when..." conditions that I wrote in my first post.

 

[lonestargal]

So I spent the whole afternoon yesterday and most of today working on the pool. I"m beginning to wonder if my test kit is bad. I plan on ordering the one that is recommended here soon but quite honestly that is not in the budget right now because of what I've spent on chlorine. It will just have to wait. I got SO frustrated that I am currently in the process of draining 1/3 of my pool and refilling with fresh water. I went through $100 worth of chlorine just yesterday and had to buy another today. There is NO change in the water at all, other than the aweful smell of chlorine-which I understand to be ammonia?? I was adding bleach every 1/2 hr until about 8 last night got up this morning and continued until my bleach was gone. Grrrrr......I'm so frustrated.

 

[lonestargal]

Ok so because I suspect that my test kit may not be up to par (it was bought last year but was not stored properly ) and until I can get another one ordered from here, I took a water sample to the pool store. Unfortunately, like many of you know, the FC ppm will only be tested up to 10 so I realize it's not completely accurate. I just wanted to get another test done to see if my testing was even working at all. My questions here are what you guys would do from here.

My tests:
FC 0 (which is why I've been continuing to shock with no results)
PH 7.0
ALK 120
total chl 10

Pool store:
FC over 10...only goes to 10 ppm on their test
Total Chl 10
PH 6.2
ALK 0
copper 0
optimizer plus 74 (this was added by the pool store last year when we had our liner replaced and they did all the chemical balancing as part of the fee)

I'm so confused as to what to do now. If I'm understanding correctly from you guys, the CC levels are way to high to I need to continue to shock (with straight bleach) to reduce that and kill the algae. Pool store says I have to much, just let the sun burn it off and run the filter to reduce it.
How can my test show alk 120 and the pool says i have none?
And also I'm confused because according to pool school, I let the pump circulate until the algae is dead and then filter right? Pool store is telling me to turn my filter on now.
In an earlier post I mentioned my pool was 13,000 gal. info from previous owners. I recalculated that according to pool calculator and I came up with 15,100.