Chemistry & Equipment Issues.

[alanpaul]

Thanks for your input, folks.
Had an algae farm for a while, as the SWG has failed and the filter broke (pumping DE back into the pool). In preparation for installing the new cartridge filter in a week or so, we've vacuumed to waste a lot, and we're doing the Shock Process. Pool is still a bit cloudy, but is blue.

Haven't gotten a test kit yet, but here are the Pool Store numbers from this morning:
TC: 5.0
FC: 5.0
CC: 0.0
pH: 8.0
TA: 100
CH: 150
CYA: 45
Salt: 2,800 (dead SWG not in use)

After the pool store numbers above, just to continue the Shock, I added 90 oz of 10% chlorine, and 14 oz of Muriatic Acid, to adjust the pH. Brushing the pool now, still a little dark staining in the 'dark areas' of the pool, likely from algae. Still some dust (remaining DE and/or dead algae, we think) rising and re-clouding the pool, but that's inevitable until the filter is replaced.

How do the numbers look to you?

Things I think I know:
We'll have to add Calcium. But when is best?
Don't want to add Stabilizer, at least not yet.

What I know I don't know:
How to protect new filter from complete clogging with residual DE and algae?
How to get rid of staining from algae? (It's a painted pool, and is chalking, too.)
Should we really keep the TA high to help with the chalking, as was suggested by a friend?

Any thoughts and/or suggestions? They'd be appreciated.
THANKS VM

 

[jblizzle]

You can add CH whenever you want ... does not affect anything else.

Have you already bought the new filter? It is a little smaller than we would recommend (minimum 225 sqft)

The best way to protect the cartridge from algae is to not let it start growing in the first place The filters job is to catch the stuff in the water, so you can not protect it from that. You just need to clean the filter when your pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure.

Maintaining the correct (or slightly higher) FC levels and brushing should reduce organic staining.

Not sure about the chalking, but you do not want a high TA if you are going to get the SWG going again as they both contribute to rising pH.

 

[JasonLion]

Deal with the CH level only after you have finished cleaning up the water.

Be careful about adjusting the PH when FC is high. High FC levels can invalidate the PH test results. Unfortunately the FC test most pool stores use only goes up to 5, so there is no telling how high your FC level actually is. This is one of the important reasons to own your own test kit.

DE filters are very efficient and can catch a lot of algae very quickly. You need to keep a close eye on the filter and bump/backwash/clean out the filter as needed. If you can't be around to keep an eye on it you might need to run in recirculate mode instead of filter mode to avoid clogging up the filter while you aren't paying attention.

Stains from algae should go away in a week or two. Chlorine cleans up organic stains, which is what you get from algae.

Chalking might be any of several things, a photo would help.

 

[alanpaul]

Thanks, Jason and Jason.
I was hoping to get the new filter online before adding Calcium, so thanks for verifying that it would be OK to do so.

I'll just have to clean the new cartridge filter often at first to remove the small amount of residual DE and dead algae that's still clouding the pool. We can't wait to get rid of the broken DE filter.

We understand your recommendation of a larger filter, but a) we're about out of room, b) it seems approximately equal in capability to our previous 36 SqFt DE filter, and c) many of our neighbors have considerably smaller cartridge filters than the Pentair 200 SQ Ft CCRP we're installing. [Out of 52 homes on our street, there are 43 IG pools, I think.]

Yes, I'll be ordering the Test Kit, to know the truth about my water, and be better able to care for the system. Until it arrives, I'll just have to depend on the Pool Store testing, and some test strips.

BTW, in the early 1970's, I worked summers as a lifeguard at a huge community pool. Now 40 years later, I bet I can get back into the swing of manual water testing, especially with the guidance of this forum! Thanks. :-D

 

[jblizzle]

Order the Speedstir with the kit ... make the testing easy, faster and more accurate.

 

[Isaac-1]

Until you get your test kit and hopefully reliable numbers I would suggest not adding anything that can't be counteracted without water replacement, this means nothing with CYA stabilizer in it, this means no Stabilizer or Dichor or Trichlor based dry chlorine products, and nothing to add calcium hardness so so no CH increaser, or Cal-Hypo dry chlorine, this leaves you with liiquid Chlorine / Bleach as your only safe chlorine source until you get your SWG fixed.

Ike

p.s. I second getting the speed stir unless your on a tight budget

 

[alanpaul]

Thanks, Ike and JBlizzle.
About the chemicals, that's just what I was thinking.
And I'll look into the Speedstir right now (I don't know yet what it is or what it does). I admit that replacing so much of our equipment all at once is pretty costly!
Alan

 

[ping]

The speedstir is a device that will stir the test water while you add the reagents to the water. The water and reagents are mixed better than just swirling by hand. I have one and it sure makes testing easier, faster, and more accurate. The cost is $30ish.

 

[alanpaul]

Thank you, PING. I did my research and you are absolutely correct.
But, I don't know, I think I can shake it with the best of them!

 

[Isaac-1]

Yes, but swirling between drops when each count for 10 on the CH test gets old when your level is over 300