Possible suction side air leak?

Strainer basket seal is one of the most common sources of suction side leaks. It sure looks like it in the first video. What was I supposed to see in the second?

I'll copy some of what I posted just a day or two ago, because it's relevant


[center:2snl290q]Round up the usual suspects: low water level, stuck weir in the skimmer, loose drain plugs on the
pump, poor seal on the pump strainer basket, and leaks at the fittings, especially any couplings.
[youtube:2snl290q]vtSmfws0_To[/youtube:2snl290q][/center:2snl290q]
 
Richard320 said:
Strainer basket seal is one of the most common sources of suction side leaks. It sure looks like it in the first video. What was I supposed to see in the second?

I'll copy some of what I posted just a day or two ago, because it's relevant


[center:2cuobpuv]Round up the usual suspects: low water level, stuck weir in the skimmer, loose drain plugs on the
pump, poor seal on the pump strainer basket, and leaks at the fittings, especially any couplings.
[youtube:2cuobpuv]vtSmfws0_To[/youtube:2cuobpuv][/center:2cuobpuv]


Ok I will check those. The 2nd video was shooting bubbles still coming out after SWG was off for a few minutes. I did take the pump top off yesterday. Could be it.
 

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kyle11 said:
Will any oring lube from a hardware store work ? I have never lubed the lid oring since installing it late last year.
Silicon based grease. Petroleum greases will cause the rubber to swell. Which is fine while it's together, but the next time you open it, the O-ring will jump out at you like one of those joke snakes in a peanut can and you won;t be able to but it back in.

Pool stores sell tubes of the stuff, and it's not outrageously overpriced like baking soda.
 
Got some pool pump silicone lube. Doesn't seem to help. I can still see very tiny pencil led size bubbles in the pump. Doesn't look like much at all to me. Pump holds prime always and there is never bubbles bigger than that after running it for a few hours. Also still some coming out of the returns. They seem to shoot out in spurts in a way. Like they are exploding out. Could it be to much hydrogen getting built up because of the way I did my salt cell? If I just do a pipe straight down then put the cell parallel to the ground would that make a difference?

Also I have not cleaned the cell would the affect anything?
a3asara9.jpg


I have checked my jandy valves, they seem find. Might be where the pipe connects to the pump though. I used blue tape as I didn't have any pipe dope left.

Thanks for the help.
 
kyle11 said:
I used blue tape as I didn't have any pipe dope left.

Blue tape? As in blue painters tape? Sorry, that won't do. Pipe sealants and teflon "tape" are homogenous materials that lubricate (prevent galling and stiction in threaded joints) and seal by flowing and filling microscopic leak paths. Although teflon tape is called "tape" it has no adhesive and is made of 100% teflon, a very soft, very slick plastic.

Blue painters tape contains two layers, one is crepe paper and one is a rubber pressure sensitive adhesive. Neither of those will lubricate or flow or seal very well.

Suggest you clean those threads up really well - lots of wiping with a rag - and use the right stuff.
 
Teflon tape comes in a variety of grades/thickness from the basic thin white, on to blue, pink and yellow (yellow is I think the thickest and rated for gas service) I am not sure about the difference between blue and pink, but blue teflon tape is much thicker than the common white type, but not nearly as thick as yellow.
 
gtemkin said:
kyle11 said:
I used blue tape as I didn't have any pipe dope left.

Blue tape? As in blue painters tape? Sorry, that won't do. Pipe sealants and teflon "tape" are homogenous materials that lubricate (prevent galling and stiction in threaded joints) and seal by flowing and filling microscopic leak paths. Although teflon tape is called "tape" it has no adhesive and is made of 100% teflon, a very soft, very slick plastic.

Blue painters tape contains two layers, one is crepe paper and one is a rubber pressure sensitive adhesive. Neither of those will lubricate or flow or seal very well.

Suggest you clean those threads up really well - lots of wiping with a rag - and use the right stuff.


Lol ya I used the blue Teflon tape. Sorry should have said. Never crossed my mind someone would think I used painters tape but I see where your could. I have just seen where some people has had problem with the Teflon tape on the pump connection.
 
kyle11 said:
Lol ya I used the blue Teflon tape. Sorry should have said. Never crossed my mind someone would think I used painters tape but I see where your could. I have just seen where some people has had problem with the Teflon tape on the pump connection.

Whew...my technical faith in humanity has been retrieved. Thanks for confirming.
 
I have been reading about the ecostar and these small bubbles and it looks like many others have has this problem. My bubbles are very small as can be seen in the linked video below.

http://youtu.be/zY9zXzBwqvI

I hold prime at all times and the pump basket is always full. The more I look at it I think it is the SWG.

I still am looking for a answer on if the way I plumbed the SWG at a 45 degree angle is ok as far as building up hydrogen. My thinking is water at a slower speed could be rushing down at that angle and gravity is creating pockets in which hydrogen is getting trapped which in turn makes bubbles at the returns if you follow what I am saying. I see it like a water slide where the water at slower speeds would just be on the bottom half of the pipe. Maybe I am just fretting over nothing though and off base. I just know it drives me crazy when I see bubbles shooting out and there is really no priming or major bubbles in the pump.
 
Here is a line from the installation manual

"The cell may be mounted vertically or horizontally".

I don't it at a 45 degree angle. Should I re plumb that part? Or is it ok to so it that way.
 

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