My planned solar layout
- Thread starter Coolpool2008
- Start date
Correct, the right side of the panels should be higher.
You really do not need the 2 2-way valves or the lower check valve. Move that lower check directly after the filter.
Actually why to you have the 2 3-ways after the filter?
It should go:
Filter - Check Valve - actuated 3-way solar valve - solar panels - check valve - T back into the main return to the heater.
Seems like you have way more valves than needed. The 3-way solar can be used as a partial bypass as well.
You really do not need the 2 2-way valves or the lower check valve. Move that lower check directly after the filter.
Actually why to you have the 2 3-ways after the filter?
It should go:
Filter - Check Valve - actuated 3-way solar valve - solar panels - check valve - T back into the main return to the heater.
Seems like you have way more valves than needed. The 3-way solar can be used as a partial bypass as well.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,838
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You always tilt toward the lower end drain point so yes the right side is higher.
I would run all 2" if possible.
Also, it is a good idea to put a check valve between the filter and solar valve to prevent draining through the filter.
Your configuration is a little complicated. I am partial to this type of layout although you can add the bypass if you want to. I would go with the alternate VRV location.
I would run all 2" if possible.
Also, it is a good idea to put a check valve between the filter and solar valve to prevent draining through the filter.
Your configuration is a little complicated. I am partial to this type of layout although you can add the bypass if you want to. I would go with the alternate VRV location.
You also should put a bypass loop around the heater so it does not add excessive back pressure to the solar panels. Otherwise I would move the check valve to after the filter that way you don't have solar water backflowing into the filter when you need to open it up. (is only for a few minutes, but still minutes count). I would also put the auto 3 way at the T, do away with the manual valve next to it, do away with the other 3 way coming off the pump and add a T in its place with a manual bypass control valve at the bottom of the loop.
The 3 way right after the filter was put there by the builder for a future solar. I'll eliminate one of them and move the check valve after the filter and add the vrv in the optional spot and add the heater bypass. Thanks for your help. Are my 2"-1.5 reducer in the right spot? I have them right after the 3way and before the one way valve and on the roof right before they go into the headers and exit. This make sense?
Thanks
Thanks
- May 3, 2007
- 16,838
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Are the panels 1.5" or your existing plumbing? If the panels, then yes, get the reducers as close to the panels as possible.
One more thought, based on my Gremlin like experience from last night, use drain valves that can't easily be bumped open. We had a major storm here last night and a small limb fell from a pine tree in the middle of the night , and just happened to hit my solar drain valve see picture below, knocking it half way open, as a result by mid morning the skimmer was sucking air. Therefore I have now wired the valve into the closed position.
Ike
Ike
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Isaac, do you leave that red valve slightly open to aid in panel draining? I just have a ball valve in 1" PVC between the pipes that I leave cracked open to help drain the source pipe into the return pipe.
Yes, I leave the red valve about 1/4 turn open, just enough for a trickle to get through to allow the supply side to drain. It is a 1/2 inch gate valve so I can fine tune flow better than I could with a ball valve, the brass ball valve with the black (wired closed) handle at the bottom was one I just happened to have laying around when I replumbed the panels. Please forgive the excess blue glue, it was challenge enough getting the 3 way elbow in place. Note there is also a screw in plug on the hot return fitting so if need be in the future I can plumb an additional "hot only" return if I decide to ever add a spill over spa.
Hi guys:
I am almost complete with this project. I will post pics and results when im done. One last question though. I am going to bypass the heater for the solar return but looking at drawings and reading posts I see most dont completely bypass, they appear to put in a bypass pipe w a valve so they can control flow. Is this the best or should I completely bypass the heater with the solar return? And If I do do I need another check valve after the heater but before the "T" that I'll plumb for the solar return and heater return?
Thanks
I am almost complete with this project. I will post pics and results when im done. One last question though. I am going to bypass the heater for the solar return but looking at drawings and reading posts I see most dont completely bypass, they appear to put in a bypass pipe w a valve so they can control flow. Is this the best or should I completely bypass the heater with the solar return? And If I do do I need another check valve after the heater but before the "T" that I'll plumb for the solar return and heater return?
Thanks
The concern with bypassing the heater 100% is that you will end up with stagnant water sitting in the heater.
I don't think you would need a check valve after the heater assuming you just put a 2-way valve between the heater supply and return (which would always allow some flow through the heater. If you use a 3-way on the heater supply, that you could close off the heater completely, then a check valve might be a good idea.
I don't think you would need a check valve after the heater assuming you just put a 2-way valve between the heater supply and return (which would always allow some flow through the heater. If you use a 3-way on the heater supply, that you could close off the heater completely, then a check valve might be a good idea.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,838
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Also, some heaters will go into error mode when there is power applied to the heater and there is no flow rate through the heat ex-changer. So if the heater is wired in tandem with the pump and it experiences no flow rate, it may engage the ex-changer fan. I don't know if all heaters do this but I do know that Hayward heaters do.
Ok so I finished up this past weekend. Yesterday I ran from 12pm to 5pm and saw about 4 degrees and it was semi cloudy. I was impressed. I also did a test with my spa and it went from 70 degrees to 84 in about 40 minutes which was really impressive. I roughed out the heater bypass but I haven't done that yet but probably will. Take a look.
Thanks again to everyone who helped!
Thanks again to everyone who helped!
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So we still havent had more than a day to two of bright sun but even om cloudt days im getting great results. Yesterday monring (cloudy day in NJ) i started out at 70 and finish the day at 78. Not bad for a cloudy day.
Nice job, looks like the Mrs gave you the thumbs up as well, can't beat that.
You'll be glad you put the panels in.
You'll be glad you put the panels in.
I am glad it all went smoothly for you, let us know how it does once the sun comes out.
That is pretty clever to put the pipe down through a drain spout, if what I am seeing is correct 
Yes its through the downspout. It was a real pain in the Rear!! I used flexible schedule 40 for the turns. Looks nice on the house.
Thanks! Yesterday the pool was 82!! Sweet!
Thanks! Yesterday the pool was 82!! Sweet!
That looks really good and seems to be working great!!! Tell us what that ended up costing you. Inquiring minds want to know.
Looks great, impressive results for the cloudy days! Do you mind posting the brand of the heaters and where purchased?
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