Running my Pump

[rigger7]

I was wondering how often I should run my
pump.I just got the pool two weeks ago and
just got the electric hooked up two days ago.
I've been running it 24 hrs non stop on low.
It is a 2 HP power pump and I use filters.

 

[BoDarville]

rigger7:

Welcome to TFP

How long you run the pump depends in part on the size of your pool, whether you have a SWG, whether your pump is a single-speed, 2-speed, or multi-speed, and bather loads to name a few. Please add information about your pool and related equipment to your signature as that will allow us to provide better advice. Here's how to do it: http://www.troublefreepool.com/what-we-need-to-know-to-answer-your-questions-t10341.html

With that said, most people tend to run their pumps longer than necessary. When I switched to BBB, I used this method to determine my pump run time: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pump_run_time. You may be surprised how much you can cut back on the pump run time by following this method and by keeping the water properly chlorinated and balanced.

 

[rigger7]

Just checking what I came up with,
I used the run time info on Pool School
and the pump GPM info that Waterway has
on their website and I came up with a 108 minutes
would cycle through 15555 gal of water,does this
sound right?

 

[BoDarville]

Your actual flow rate (GPM or GPH) will depend on the length and diameter of your plumbing system and the net elevation change of the water. Water moving from a high location to a low location has what is known as a static head gain while water moving from a low location to a higher one has a static head loss. Most manufactures of pumps include head curves in their pump manuals. The curves have two axes, Feet of Head (a.k.a, feet of water) vs. Gallons per Minute (GPM). The longer the feet of head, the lower the flow rate. It is difficult to get a precise flow rate for a given pump/filter/pool system without a flow meter. If you want to dig into this relationship a bit deeper, check out this article: http://www.troublefreepool.com/hydraulics-101-have-you-lost-your-head-t915.html

The good news is you do not need to know the exact GPM to find your ideal run time. Simply cut back on your current run time until you notice a change in the clarity of the water. At that point, increase the run time to the previous time setting. Of course, all of this assumes that everything else was held relatively constant (no algae or similar organic outbreaks). Once you find your ideal run time, you may need to make adjustments for abnormally high bather loads and/or debris levels. Also, keep in mind that maintaining proper FC levels and maintaining overall water chemistry balance plays a large role in the clarity of the water.

Using this method, I have reduced my pump run time to about 1/3 of what it was previously. This approach has worked well for me as the pool has never looked cleaner.

 

[mas985]

I would ignore GPM and turnover. It really isn't a good indicator of run time despite the pool school article. Some pools require 1/2 turn like mine and some much more. There are basically two objects for run time:

First, to add chlorine to the pool to reach the FC target. For BBB, this is basically only about 30 min

Second, to remove debris from the pool surface (skimming) and bottom (vacuuming). Very little debris is actually suspended in the water. Most will either float or sink.

I would start with 4 hours of run time and see if that is enough and adjust from there.

Also, you might want to have a read through this study:

Pump Run Time Study