IQ900-RS and Aqualink-RS question

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tomtc

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Apr 25, 2013
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I've had no luck in finding the actual installation manual for the IQ-900RS system board that I used to upgrade my Aqualink RS (and which is part of the iAqualink package since my system board was a very old version and had to be ungraded to control the VS-FHP pump that I bought at the same time)...

I tried to find an installation manual for the actual upgrade PCB and its programming but Jandy/Zodiac only make it available to "trained pool professionals" and research on both their website and Google came up empty. There is nothing for it on Jandy/Zodiac's site and Google comes up empty. I only found the basic installation/programing manual for the IAqualink itself.

I got the system installed and operating but I have two questions:

1) There seems to be some question as to whether or not the power to the VS-FHP pump should be switched on or off by the Aqualink RS power control center or hardwired to the circuit breaker in there and left on, with the pump on and off and speed to be controlled over the RS-485 link to the Aqualink. Intuitively it seems to be that the power to the pump should always be one and not switched on and off but if that is done, where and how do you program the Aqualink-RS system to turn it on and off remotely? This is about the only part that is unclear to me at this point.

2) I have a solar heating system but how to connect and control the Jandy valve for it is confusing. There is a valve port on the new controller board that says "solar" but in the setup menu under "JVA assignment" that is not specifically mentioned and the only port the software will allow you to select is the "Aux Port." So, which do you use and how do you control it?

Any help on this would be appreciated.
 
Thanks for the information!

I also discovered that apparently Jandy and Hayward got in to some kind of a ******* match and thus the new replacement Aqualink RS control board will no longer talk to my Goldline Salt Chlorinator over the Aqualink RS port in it. The Goldline used to be permanently hard wired to a power breaker and the RS would then control it when the old pump was running, but it appears the way to go now is to wire the power for it to the same relay that controls the new pump and have that turn it on and off. The knob in the Goldline then becomes chlorination level control in place of the former remote control via the Aqualink RS...

I do love it when companies screw you over like this! I've attempted to reach Hayward to see if there is an update that would restore the control functionality but have had no response from them to date...

daddybug said:
The VS FloPro should NOT be hooked up directly to the breaker, it should be controlled by the relay for the circulation pump. As for the solar JVA, once you hook it up, the RS8 will automatically assign it
Click to expand...
 
I don't know what that is or where to set it but the response I got from Hayward was: "The loss of control was done by Jandy our software had nothing to do with it so unfortunately there is nothing we can do from our end. The upgrade of the Jandy system is what caused the issue in communication so my hope is that Jandy can provide you with some type of resolution. Wish there was more we could do to help." And Jandy said: "Our current revision of RS systems does communicate with select Hayward and Pentair equipment such as their lights. However, you will need to use a Jandy chlorinator if you are seeking control via the Aqualink RS system. Otherwise, you will be limited to manual control which is on/off power being sent to the Hayward chlorinator. The chlorine output will have to be adjusted from the actual control panel for this equipment, not through the Aqualink."

daddybug said:
Actually, I would think t would still work. Did you set the aquarite emulation to AL-5 (I think that's it) on the aqua rite? That emulates a jandy aqua pure
Click to expand...
 
On the aqua rite, scroll the diagnostic button, until you find AL-0, then you can change it to AL-1 or 2 and so on. I think if you set it to AL-5 it will emulate a Jandy Aqua Pure. Once you hook up the 4 control wires and select the correct setting. You change to AL-5 by moving the switch from auto to super chlorinate back and forth until it reads AL-5
 
My Goldline Chorlinator is fairly old (circa 2002) so it may not support that, but I'll give it a try and see. I'll report back! Thanks!

daddybug said:
On the aqua rite, scroll the diagnostic button, until you find AL-0, then you can change it to AL-1 or 2 and so on. I think if you set it to AL-5 it will emulate a Jandy Aqua Pure. Once you hook up the 4 control wires and select the correct setting. You change to AL-5 by moving the switch from auto to super chlorinate back and forth until it reads AL-5
Click to expand...
 
The solution proposed by daddybug worked for me, just don't forget to reboot the control panel after you make the change on the Goldline Chlorinator or it won't recognize the new code. It should also be noted that daddybug's solution wasn't in the Aqua Rite / Goldline owners manual. Thanks very much!!
 
xtrsports said:
The solution proposed by daddybug worked for me, just don't forget to reboot the control panel after you make the change on the Goldline Chlorinator or it won't recognize the new code. It should also be noted that daddybug's solution wasn't in the Aqua Rite / Goldline owners manual. Thanks very much!!
Click to expand...

:goodjob:
 
Anybody have an troubleshooting tips. This wont recognize the wifi signal from my new Motorola - SURFboard eXtreme DOCSIS 3.0 Wireless-N Cable Modem and Gigabit Router.

They say it doesnt support wireless N and etc.... thoughts?
 

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Some routers require that they be specifically enabled to allow B connections... Perhaps there is a setting for that in the router menu?

mephipps1 said:
Anybody have an troubleshooting tips. This wont recognize the wifi signal from my new Motorola - SURFboard eXtreme DOCSIS 3.0 Wireless-N Cable Modem and Gigabit Router.
They say it doesnt support wireless N and etc.... thoughts?
Click to expand...
 
tomtc said:
Some routers require that they be specifically enabled to allow B connections... Perhaps there is a setting for that in the router menu?

mephipps1 said:
Anybody have an troubleshooting tips. This wont recognize the wifi signal from my new Motorola - SURFboard eXtreme DOCSIS 3.0 Wireless-N Cable Modem and Gigabit Router.
They say it doesnt support wireless N and etc.... thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

You need to broadcast in all modes
 
I have an older RS8 that just went bad. I need a whole new set up as PCB is bad including new power center box with breakers. I want also iaqualink. I'm confused because iQ900-RS looks like it comes with a new PCB. In your post you said "I tried to find an installation manual for the actual upgrade PCB and its programming" I'm trying to do it myself. The PCB look easy to install in new power center. I found a RS8 installation manual which shows putting on PCB. Can't my electrician do that? What programming is required and can i do that? Are you talking about CPU chip and not PCB?
 

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