FIrst test with Taylor kit, How are my numbers looking?

CH does not matter for vinyl pools.

Did you really buy the K-2005 and not the recommended K-2006? IF so, you should add the FAS-DPD chlorine test to your kit. Otherwise you do not have the ability to measure FC and CC above 5ppm.

Besides that things look fine assuming the water is clear.
 
Richard320 said:
:nopic:

Vinyl pools don't care about low Calcium. How does it look? Because ultimately, that's the goal. No one oohs and ahhs when you tell them your chemistry is perfect; they want to see ultra clear sparkly water! :snorkle:

I must have had high CH at the end of last season, the water was cloudy but everything tested fine. I didnt check CH often last season.



Still a ton of work to do around the pool but at least the pools up and balanced. First season with a taylor test kit and I love it. So much easier to match the colors then the hth 6 ways Ive had in the past.
 
poolnew-b said:
I must have had high CH at the end of last season, the water was cloudy but everything tested fine. I didnt check CH often last season.
Not so...I've hit CH levels as high as 1100 and my water has stayed crystal clear. Right now it's about 825 and you can call heads or tails in the deep end, from the deck!

More than likely you had too low FC last year, although reports around here indicate that the stock cartridge intex filter is barely big enough for the pool, too.
 
Richard320 said:
poolnew-b said:
I must have had high CH at the end of last season, the water was cloudy but everything tested fine. I didnt check CH often last season.
Not so...I've hit CH levels as high as 1100 and my water has stayed crystal clear. Right now it's about 825 and you can call heads or tails in the deep end, from the deck!

More than likely you had too low FC last year, although reports around here indicate that the stock cartridge intex filter is barely big enough for the pool, too.

Yes the stock filter stink. I got the intex 1600gph sand filter at the begining of last season and I love it. I was going to get a bigger sand filter for my new ultra frame but the 1600 is doing fine with all the spring debris and sap from my neighbors pine trees.
 
poolnew-b said:
Should I be concerned about Si? its -1.2 on the watergram. If I raise my CH to 400 it will give me a 0.0 Si. I just dont know if I should be concerned.
You have a vinyl pool - there's nothing to leach!
http://www.poolcalculator.com/chemistry.html#CSI
The calcite saturation index is a tool for estimating the likelihood of plaster corrosion or calcite scaling. The LSI, Langelier Saturation Index, is a very similar but slightly less accurate measure. The CSI uses pH, TA, CH, CYA, temperature, Borate, and Salt levels to estimate the likelihood of problems. A low saturation index means the water is likely to dissolve calcite out of plaster, pebble, tile, stone, and concrete surfaces (and perhaps fiberglass) which will eventually cause damage. A high saturation index means the water is likely to deposit calcite scale on the walls of the pool and in the plumbing.

CSI is most sensitive to changes in pH. With a plaster pool, it is best to try and get your CSI a little below zero, so that changes in pH won't shift your pool too far towards corrosion or scaling. With a vinyl pool the CSI can be kept more negative, which makes it very unlikely that pH changes could get the CSI into the range of scaling risk.

Some people have problems with foaming and CH stops that. Maybe I'm just paranoid about adding CH, since it's a constant battle for me. My tap water was 230 the last time I checked it!
 

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