BBB method convert....Now What?

blownby

Well-known member
Apr 30, 2013
88
NW Ohio
I opened the pool about 2 weeks ago. Grabbed 2 cases of 12.5% chlorine $2.75/gal...
Also picked up a gallon of 31% muratic acid.
For now I will manually dose the Chlorine as needed.
I also just ordered the tf-100 test kit. Will report numbers back when the come.

In past:
I aimed for Chlorine ~ 2ppm using basic test strips....Typically would use 3" tabs in chlorinator
I would just dose a 60% algacide weekly just because and never had an algae issue....
I would also shock with a bag or 2 of shock weekly as well during summer....
I would adjust pH with dry powders. What should I expect with pH now since no Tabs?

So now:
do I still need to shock? And what do I use? And when, weekly or based on the chlorine tests?
do I still need algacide? And if so i read only polyquate 60% Recomended brand? weekly or just if I see some cloudy?
Clarifier?

Anything else?
 
do I still need to shock? And what do I use? And when, weekly or based on the chlorine tests?
do I still need algacide? And if so i read only polyquate 60% Recomended brand? weekly or just if I see some cloudy?
Clarifier?

Once you get your kit post numbers here and we can advise. On BBB you won't normally have to shock (verb not a noun). If you do you just need chlorine and patience. Most members don't need algaecide or clarifiers but in rare instances they can help. Use pool calculator to figure how much chlorine to add, but without knowing what your CYA level is it's going to be hard to say.
 
blownby said:
I opened the pool about 2 weeks ago. Grabbed 2 cases of 12.5% chlorine $2.75/gal...
Also picked up a gallon of 31% muratic acid.
For now I will manually dose the Chlorine as needed.
I also just ordered the tf-100 test kit. Will report numbers back when the come.

In past:
I aimed for Chlorine ~ 2ppm using basic test strips....Typically would use 3" tabs in chlorinator
I would just dose a 60% algacide weekly just because and never had an algae issue....
I would also shock with a bag or 2 of shock weekly as well during summer....
I would adjust pH with dry powders. What should I expect with pH now since no Tabs?

So now:
do I still need to shock? And what do I use? And when, weekly or based on the chlorine tests?
do I still need algacide? And if so i read only polyquate 60% Recomended brand? weekly or just if I see some cloudy?
Clarifier?

Anything else?
If you maintain minimum FC for your CYA level all season long, you may never need to perform the shock process. And if you do, it's based on water quality and test results, not just some vague idea that it's about due.

You won't need algaecide, either. Some people put some in before they close the pool in the winter. But if you maintain FC for your CYA level, you won't need it.

You shouldn't need clarifier if you maintain the proper FC for your CYA level, either.

Do you see a pattern here? :mrgreen:

For the last couple years, my pool has been fed nothing but 12.5% sodium hypochlorite, 31% Muriatic acid, and Trichlor pucks when I'm out of town. That's it. And my pool is clear enough to toss a dime in the deep end and call heads or tails from the deck all year long.

All you need is a little bit of knowledge and hard facts from your own, proper test kit.
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Ok,
Thanks...last look based on quick dip strips CYA was like 30 or a tad lower.
Hopefully new test kit is here early next week for solid numbers!

Also I have a vinyl liner. At what point does chlorine levels become harsh to it?
I still have a little more studying up in the pool school, but have a basic understanding, just need to grasp the ratio stuff and then how to balance numbers accordingly.
 
How do you figure what an ideal CYA level is?
The pool will have full sun on it pretty much from 10am till 4pm and then from 4-dark about half pool has sun....
Avg summer water temp is 78* during summer. need anything else?
 
blownby said:
How do you figure what an ideal CYA level is?
The pool will have full sun on it pretty much from 10am till 4pm and then from 4-dark about half pool has sun....
Avg summer water temp is 78* during summer. need anything else?
For the shock process, 30 is pretty good. Once the water is sparkling, up it to about 50. But if it works out that one bottle will take you to 45 or so, don't sweat it. pool-school/recommended_levels
 
Start with 30ppm, if you feel like you are loosing too much to the sun, raise it up some, but we do not recommend more than 50ppm for non-SWG pools as other problems can develop, like the pain of following the shock process if required.
 
Ok, I will leave CYA as is for now.
Any idea what an avg amount of say 12.5% chlorine I should use per month (24k gal & lot of sun & avg use)?
Is 4gal little or a lot or about right? I know will depend on a lot, but any ballpark avg.

Ok, read thru the and trying to grasp FC, CC TC....

It seems TC is the typical every day test via OTO yellow drops color
and FC via test strips...
So if FC is basically what sanitizes why the test for TC typically via OTO test?? Ease?

FC should be 3-7,
TC should be ??
CC should be ??
 
It is normal to lose 2-3ppm of FC per day. Multiple that amount by 30 and that is your usage per month ... use the poolcalculator.com to figure out how much bleach that is.

In a clean/clear pool, the CC is usually 0-0.5ppm, so using the OTO test is basically giving you the FC.

If CC > 0.5ppm, then something is going on and you need the shock process.
 
Wowzers....

So for a 24K gallon pool, I basically need to raise the pool FC from 0-75(avg) 2.5x30 to calculate....
It says at 12.5% I need 1792oz....or just ~14gals a month?!

So at say $3 a gal I am at ~$42 a month for chlorine. Sound about right? That a lot of lugging!
 

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In general those dip test CYA tests are not that accurate, you really need a CYA liquid turbidity test , and even then it is very important to run the test in the right lighting condition (outdoors with the sun to your back), the sticks do give you a ballpark figure, but it is a VERY BIG ballpark
 
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