Trouble maintaining PH and Chlorine levels in my hot tub

harleysilo

0
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Mar 1, 2012
1,943
North Georgia
Stand alone hot tub.

Test Numbers last night

Chlorine 5 PPM
CC ~.5 PPM
TA 100 (finally got it there)
CYA 40ish
CH haven't tested it, fiberglass tub, probably 140 like pool
Borates showing up at 50PPM on the strips

now you noticed i left out PH

That's cause i have NO IDEA what it is.

I am pretty sure it was above 8.2 prior to adding MA, but 1 hour after adding MA i have no idea where it is at. I've tested with my TF-100 kit and my API fish keeping test kit which has separate drops for High PH or Low PH.....

So prior to adding some MA...



Afterwords





Testing with fish tank kit



So it's either 6.4-6.5 or 7.8 or maybe 7.6....
 
Okay so CH actually matters in my hot tub, and i actually use the CSI index as an indicator of what TA i need.....I've been wondering why the CSI thingy is there....

So IF my CH is 140 and my PH is 7.6, then i would require a TA of 60 to have a CSI close to 0. So i follow instructions in sticky to lower TA to 60 (after i double check my CH).

I RAISED my TA to 100 because that's what i thought it was supposed to be based on what i've read about non salt water pools.....it had been around 40.
 
So easiest thing to do is drain, adjust CH, then the rest and all will be well vs. trying to get TA down?

And what sucks is I tossed a half empty bottle of CH cause I have a vinyl pool and "won't ever need it" LOL.
 
There is no point in trying to balance CSI in a fiberglass hot tub. Fiberglass doesn't really care what the CSI is. You want CH at 100+, and then adjust TA to whatever gets your PH to be stable, which is likely to be below 60.
 

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Thanks peeps! I'll drain tonight then! And I'm thinking my tub is really plastic of sorts, not fiberglass, cause ther is one nick in it and I see no fibers. But I'm guessing plastic doesnt care about CSI either.
 
And it should be easy to aerate in the spa. I can move my TA real fast down (as in an of hour with the air vents open on the jets) then dose down with MA and repeat...

I think I am understanding better now what you are doing, let me see if I get this right. You are going to pump your pool water into your tub? Primarily to get CH up? By the way, in the summer I do that in my tub, not because of CH (my fill is always around 300 ppm), but because I already have it "balanced" and borated.
 
Okay well that was easy, got Ca up to 110 and then got TA down to 60 with a ph of 7.2 in about 30 mins. Hopefully this will fix or help ph rise, thanks everyone. Dang shark just sprayed me while I'm typing this time to adjust his tail
 
When your TA is low, then stop the aeration and see if the pH is more stable. Once you've got a low TA with a reasonably stable pH, you can use 50 ppm Borates which will add more pH buffering so should slow down the rate of rise even more.
 

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