Bonding/electrical questions

[carlnpa]

I am doing our vinyl lined steel frame inground pool build except for the excavation work.
I have some specific electrical hardware questions.
One luminary (500w), one pump (220v/20A), about 120' (70' in house, 50' to service pad) total from house service panel.
We are under IRC code, live on a farm, do our own wiring etc.
1) for the #8 solid copper bonding wire, is this insulated or not?
2) can the bonding wire be attached to the steel pool frame with a crimped copper lug through the pool frame bolts or is there another attachment method?
3) Is the luminary and pump on seperate runs from the house service panel?
4) from the house service panel to the disconnect box at the pump, continuous UF-B#10 3 wire with ground or NM-B #10 through house to an exterior wall mount LB box, to THHN cable in conduit to disconnect box/subpanel at pump?
5) Can I use GFCI breakers at either the house service panel or a subpanel at the pump?

 

[mnormington]

Bare copper bonding wire was specified when I did mine. Also, I believe it was 6 gauge wire.

 

[Titanium]

carlnpa,

Here is a link for a very good rundown on the National Electrical Code (NEC) Section 680. Section 680 is the part of the NEC dealing with swimming pools, spas, hot tubs, fountains and similar installaitons. The first 15 pages of the 31 page pdf should be ignored (well, not ignored, but it doesn't deal with swimming pools) and the information on Section 680 beings on page 16. http://www.mikeholt.com/files/PDF/Pooldownload.pdf

What is "IRC code"?

1) for the #8 solid copper bonding wire, is this insulated or not?

This is usually bare.

2) can the bonding wire be attached to the steel pool frame with a crimped copper lug through the pool frame bolts or is there another attachment method?

I'm not completely sure about this one, but my 1983 vintage pool has the #8 bonding wire connected to copper pool pipe with pipe clamps. Other parts of the #8 bonding wire are attached via "split-bolt" connections. I THINK a crimped coper lug attached to pool frame bolts is satisfactory, but a real electrician from TFP should comment on this. I'm just an electrical engineer and sometimes I'm not completely up to speed on installation details such as this.

3) Is the luminary and pump on seperate runs from the house service panel?

You can do it this way, but I would recommend running at least #10 size conductors from your main panel and installing a subpanel specifically for your pool. Then you would have one 240 volt circuit breaker for your pump and a GFI 120 Volt breaker for your lights. Intermatic makes combo timer enclosures/breaker sub-panels in both mechanical and digital versions.

4) from the house service panel to the disconnect box at the pump, continuous UF-B#10 3 wire with ground or NM-B #10 through house to an exterior wall mount LB box, to THHN cable in conduit to disconnect box/subpanel at pump?

I'm not quite sure of your layout or intentions with this question. Either method should be OK to use. I am assuming the UF cable would be direct buried? You would regret trying to install UF cable in conduit.

5) Can I use GFCI breakers at either the house service panel or a subpanel at the pump?

You could install breakers at the house service panel, but per my reply 3 above, I would prefer installing a subpanel and putting your GFI breakers in that.

Titanium

 

[Titanium]

Quote:
2) can the bonding wire be attached to the steel pool frame with a crimped copper lug through the pool frame bolts or is there another attachment method?

I'm not completely sure about this one, but my 1983 vintage pool has the #8 bonding wire connected to copper pool pipe with pipe clamps. Other parts of the #8 bonding wire are attached via "split-bolt" connections. I THINK a crimped coper lug attached to pool frame bolts is satisfactory, but a real electrician from TFP should comment on this. I'm just an electrical engineer and sometimes I'm not completely up to speed on installation details such as this.

I changed my mind on your question #2. On further reflection (and consultation with a real electrician), the crimped copper lug will not work very well with the solid #8 wire. Crimped connections are usually designed for stranded wire. I think your bonding wire should be attached to your steel pool frame with what is shown in the picture below.

http://www.inyopools.com/Products/00100028009200.htm

Titanium

 

[brianspool]

Yep, that's what I used too, with #6 wire because Lowe's didn't have #8 bare. I originally attached them to the aluminum walls with zinc-plated nuts and bolts, but the inspector had me replace them with brass. I also sprayed them all with some undercoat I had in the garage.

 

[Poolidiot]

Titanium is correct, with a solid wire you will need to use a mechanical lug and not a crimp lug.