DIY in the show me state

[anguspoe]

Getting ready to start the dig in a few weeks. Give me some time to put some finishing touches of everything. Any feedback would be great. attached are the ruff elec and plum plans

The Run down
16x32 steel from royalswimmingpool
Corner Radius: 24-inch
Brace System: A-Frame_deck_support
Cantilever-forms-steps
8' Straight Back Sit-n-Step
1.5hp Tri-Star
24" Hayward Sand 1-1/2"
Pool-Depth: Non-diving_5ft-8in
6 - Pentair Two Port Diverter Vale 1-1/2”
Pentair IntelliBrite Controller
2 - Pentair IntelliBrite LED Light 120V, 30W, 100’ Cord
Pentair IC40 Complete Salt System
TF-100 Testkit
AquaChek Salt Test Strips
1 - 1/2 PVC 40

 

[4knights]

I think you might lose a lot of power running #8 125ft. You should be running #6 minimum for that long of a run and possibly even #4. (not an electrician, just advice I got from one when building my pool)

I have the Easytouch panel 85 feet from the house main panel with a 220/60amp GFCI feeding the Easytouch load center. I ran #6 for both load wires, the common and groundwire.

 

[anguspoe]

You are correct typo on my part. 40 amp service from the main
Best voltage drop calc I've found. http://www.southwire.com/support/voltag ... ulator.htm

 

[linen]

Which tristar are you looking at? If it is the SP3215EE, that appears to be way to much for your pool.

First we highly recommend a 2-speed since most of the time you will want to run on low. Something more in line with what you need would be the superpump SP2607X102S. Do you plan to have any water features other than what you showed?

Also, I would go with at least 2" inch pipe, even it you are plumbing seperate returns and supplies.

 

[4knights]

You are correct typo on my part. 40 amp service from the main
Best voltage drop calc I've found. http://www.southwire.com/support/voltag ... ulator.htm

With all the lighting, and your equipment running off the one panel i would still recommend 60 amp breaker in a 100 or 125 amp panel. It's far easier to put more power out there now than it is later on when you decide to add other items.

The calculator you posted shows #6 wire for 40 amp with a 2% drop over 125 ft.

My load center is 220 volt / 125 amp max, spots for 10 single breakers or any combination of double/singles only using 4 beakers now but I know I will add to it later as the landscape design changes.

 

[anguspoe]

Which tristar are you looking at? If it is the SP3215EE, that appears to be way to much for your pool.

First we highly recommend a 2-speed since most of the time you will want to run on low. Something more in line with what you need would be the superpump SP2607X102S. Do you plan to have any water features other than what you showed?

Also, I would go with at least 2" inch pipe, even it you are plumbing seperate returns and supplies.

SP3215EE was the one that was ordered - Will be calling to see about changing it out for a Pentair SuperFlo 1HP 2 Speed 340042

You are correct typo on my part. 40 amp service from the main
Best voltage drop calc I've found. http://www.southwire.com/support/voltag ... ulator.htm

With all the lighting, and your equipment running off the one panel i would still recommend 60 amp breaker in a 100 or 125 amp panel. It's far easier to put more power out there now than it is later on when you decide to add other items.

The calculator you posted shows #6 wire for 40 amp with a 2% drop over 125 ft.

My load center is 220 volt / 125 amp max, spots for 10 single breakers or any combination of double/singles only using 4 beakers now but I know I will add to it later as the landscape design changes.

Based on the calc. 240 w/ 3% drop, cable run of 125 and an end amp of 40 - #8 - Loss of of 6.9 = 233.1v at the panel.

Pentair pump has only an amp draw of 6 on high and 2.3 on low - 240 20 amp breaker
IC40 SWG has a draw of 1 amp
Max 7 amp on a 240v 20 amp breaker

Intellibrite G5 30 watts each - has a draw of .25amps
LV Landscaping lights 300 = 2.5 amps
so far only 2.75 amps on a 20 amp circuit

can understand it would be better upfront - as of now there are no plans for a heat pump, but maybe some more lighting

 

[4knights]

Just trying to help you think about it up front. Price of copper continues to rise plus cost and time to fish larger wire later on. For a couple extra bucks I'd go with #6.
If you buy a whole reel at HD or Lowes you can simply color tape the other three wires on each end. I did that using a 500 foot spool red #6 wire and then split it evenly between 4 wires, taped both ends for white, black and green. All four slipped nicely in the 1 1/2 inch conduit.
Either way enjoy your build! I did my own and am proud every time I look out the back door. Another project done for less than 2/3rds of what the local builders wanted. It looks better than what they have installed as well.

 

[anguspoe]

Thanks for the input-. I ended up moving the pump station to the other side of the house which is about a 40' run. Should make things a little easier.

Well after getting plot maps, found out we have an easement right in the middle of were the pool was going to be. So we turned it 90 and had to move it close to the house.

With the A/C that close to the pool will the compressor need a GFI beaker and bonding?

Compressor is about 10' from water edge

 

[alanpaul]

DIYitsms,
Seriously, I'd very strongly suggest one (1) more return into the pool, specifically at the lower left corner of your drawing above, coming out from the short end of the pool.

It is absolutely necessary to direct the water to move down the long side of the pool, on the opposite side from the skimmer. You want to create a circular motion, hence circulation.

Without it, due to wave action, water will just rush back and forth across the pool, and any debris falling into the pool will never flow around to the skimmer corner.

With the pool being 32 feet long, I'd fear that only 2 returns, running on low speed wouldn't move the water sufficiently to skim the pool efficiently, but that's just my opinion.
Thanks.