Existing plumbing re-do - Sizing Questions.

yukonsc

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LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2012
51
Oakton,Va
So the time has come to redo the plumbing on the pool. Does the sizing the looking correct in the attached picture? High level - there is 2" coming from the skimmers and main drain to filter. From the Filter it steps down to 1.5" then steps up to 2" at the SPA/POOL return valve.

Also I was thinking I should install a Spa make-up valve are there pros/cons? and what should the pipe sizing be?

Any feedback would help.

Its a 40k pool with FNS PLUS and 2hp Pentair
 

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It does not make a huge difference, but stick with 2" everywhere you are replacing pipe ... especially on the suction side .... in fact you could run 2.5" between the last suction valve and the pump so two 2" pipes are not merging into a single 2" (not worth redoing if you are not already).

The Spa make-up is just for some overflow right? You can achieve the same thing by just not closing off the spa return valve completely.
 
I would suggest moving the pump over in line with the suction valve and thus removing 2 90 degree turns. And put a union in that pipe and on on the vertical above the pump ... then you can fix a leak on the pump without replumbing.

There are a LOT of turns in you suction lines ... can not think of a clever way to reduce them yet though ... fewer turns the better.
 
One more thing pumps perform best if they have some length of straight pipe feeding into the inlet side (suction side), there is a formula for this, but rule of thumb is 6 times the diameter of the feed pipe, so if you have 2 inch feeding the pump, you want a foot of straight pipe before any elbows or fittings.
 
Yes I noticed the elbows also on the suction side. I think to fix it I would have to do a lot digging...

What do you suggest for unions and I was going to with Schedule 80 for both sides of the pump.

BTW - of course my HD doesn't have the 2.5 PVC.... I guess its supply house time for that item.

Thanks Guys - keep the info coming!
 
Why Sch 80? Any regular Sch 40 union should be fine.

You really do not have to go up to 2.5" pipe, it will not likely make any noticeable difference for just the straight pipe.
 
For the elbows close to the suction side of the pump, you could turn the pump 90 degrees, and run an extra long U length of pipe into the suction fitting, should be the same number of turns as you have now, just spread out some.

Ike
 

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Thanks for the help. Along with the plumbing the electrical needs to get re-done also - along the load center just being corroded beyond usability I didn't think it was a good idea to have the lights on a standard breaker (Along with the pump be a standard breaker also). So I am buying the parts and tearing into it next week.

Thanks Again!
 
A GFCI breaker for the pump is required in some regions, optional in others, depending on which version of the electrical code they are using. Even if they are not required in your area, they are recommended.

Underwater lights have required a GFCI breaker just about everywhere for quite some time.
 
For the lights, is a GFCI "breaker" required ... or is wiring it after a GFCI "outlet" acceptable?

Mine had neither and changed it to use an outlet GFCI since the subpanel is actually round fuses. Wondering if I should change my method when the Pro Logic subpanel gets installed and use a breaker instead of powering the light off the outlet.
 
FYI: 2008 NEC requires GFCI for Motors, lighting, outlets - its my entire panel All 2 Double pole 20's and 4 double pole 15's - yes I am enjoying the expense but safety first......

Jblizzle - Section 680.22 and 680.23 should cover your lighting questions.
 
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