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[ndemond]

Posted on: Sun 25 May, 2008 08:32 Subject: Replacement Cartridges
Good morning.

Long time pool owner. An owner that can fix or find a solution to most of my pool problems. Pool has been open about a week and was a green pond when opened. This is a question that someone may know an answer

I think I need to replace my cartridge filters. The water balance is perfect and I cleaned the cartridges yesterday morning. The water is still cloudy with suspended ?floaties? The question I have for anyone with knowledge of replacement cartridges.



Can I replace a unicel cartridge that has more pleats but the same width and diameter?

I have a Clean and Clear filter.
It takes the 7470 filter (4)
And I was thinking of getting the 7476- more pleats. Thinking it would be work better.

Vinyl liner
36,000 gallons


Does anyone see a problem with that?

Thanks in advance

 

[Guest]

How old are your carts and how have you cleaned them? (for example, have they ever been acid washed?) Also if you could post a full set of test results it could be useful. Often a pool that look cloudy is caused by some subtle water balance issue. What form of chlorine are you using? (stabilized or unstabilized?
Width and diameter are only two of the parameters that determine whether a cart will fit a particular filter. You also have to look at the inner opening diameter, endcap shape, and presence or absence of a center core.

What you are talking about doing is converting a Clean and clear Plus 320 into an (older model) clean and Clear Plus 360. I don't know if that would work because some of the other parts between this models (such as the Air Bleed tube assembly and the manifold) are different. Also, It seems that Pentair no longer makes the 360 and currently offers the 320. Pentair no longer offers a 90 sq ft cart for the Clean and Clear Plus series but it is available from third party sources such as Unicel (but interstingly enough, not Pleato). The extra 40 sq ft of filter area would be inconsequential anyway.

 

[ndemond]

Thanks so much for the reply:

FC: 5.0
pH: 7.4
TA: 100
CYA: 40

Cartridges are a year old, here what happened.

Had a pool service close the pool and the cartridges uncleaned were left in the filter. (Didn't notice they were in there.)
I cleaned the filter w/ Cascade after soaking and they came out quite clean.
It seems to be runnin fine and the returns still have a good flow after a day. NO improvement.

Light green pool. I am running the sweep.

I haven't acid washed them yet. I did use a product called rapid shock to get the cl. level to this point and it is holding.

I am thinking lots of calcium from the shock? And that is stuck in the pleats. Or cartridges are ruined after sitting in the filter dirty for 6 months.

I use unstabilized CL.

The only difference in the 2 cartridges is the # of pleats. Diameter and width and height are the same. And more expensive. Just was wondering if it would work better.

Thanks In advance again.

 

[duraleigh]

Light green pool.

Nancy, if your pool is still green, you still have algae.

You must run your FC up to around 20ppm and HOLD IT THERE until the pool is crystal clear. Run the pump 24/7 brush and vacuum often but the key is to get your chlorine up.

 

[Guest]

Light green pool. I am running the sweep.
HERE is your problem, you have not killed the algae. Get your FC up to 15-20 ppm and KEEP IT THERE (by testing and adding chlorine at LEAST 3 times a day) until the pool clears. NO filter will clear a pool with live algae in it.
I haven't acid washed them yet. I did use a product called rapid shock to get the cl. level to this point and it is holding.

I am thinking lots of calcium from the shock?

What is your CH?


I use unstabilized CL.
Liquid, cal hypo, or lithium?

The only difference in the 2 cartridges is the # of pleats. Diameter and width and height are the same. And more expensive. Just was wondering if it would work better.
Like I said above, the number of pleats and additionl SQ Ft is not significant and their appear to be some part incompatibilities between the model 320 and model 360.
Thanks In advance again.

 

[ndemond]

Light green pool. I am running the sweep.
HERE is your problem, you have not killed the algae. Get your FC up to 15-20 ppm and KEEP IT THERE (by testing and adding chlorine at LEAST 3 times a day) until the pool clears. NO filter will clear a pool with live algae in it.
I haven't acid washed them yet. I did use a product called rapid shock to get the cl. level to this point and it is holding.

Light green VERY CLOUDY
I am thinking lots of calcium from the shock?

What is your CH?

[color=Font Color]320 CH
[/color]

I use unstabilized CL.
Liquid, cal hypo, or lithium?

cal hypo

The only difference in the 2 cartridges is the # of pleats. Diameter and width and height are the same. And more expensive. Just was wondering if it would work better.
Like I said above, the number of pleats and additionl SQ Ft is not significant and their appear to be some part incompatibilities between the model 320 and model 360.

]Filters ruined from sitting all winter?
Thanks In advance again.

Again thanks for the quick replys

 

[Guest]

Do you have any CC? Light green cloudy water is an indication of algae. If there is no algae the water would not be green, period!
You are using cal hypo for chlorinating and shocking.
with high TA cal hypo can cause temporary clouding of the water. Dropping the pH will clear it. You might want to consider switching to liquid chlorine or bleach since your calcium, while fine right now, will only continue to rise with the continued use of cal hypo
You might also want to lower your TA to around 70-80 ppm. This will give you better pH stability and might help prevent as much clouding from the cal hypo.

I don't think your carts are ruined since you have not acid washed them. Acid washing can cause the polyester material to stretch and reduce filtering ability over time.

One final note...there is NO DIFFERENCE between the cal hypo you are chlorinating with and the 'shock'. Shock is a verb, not a noun...in other words, it's something you DO to a pool, not a special product. It simply means raising the FC high enough to either destroy CC or kill algae. The only difference in cal hypo products is the strength. Most are around 47% but Poolife and a few other companies still have them as high as 68 to 73%. These are getting harder and harder to find because at this concentration they are considered class III oxidizers and are more dangerous to store.

 

[duraleigh]

Nancy,

If I read you correctly, you are thinking the cloudiness might be from too much calcium,

Your test results would not indicate that at all.

When you say the FC is holding, the criteria we use for that on the forum is the ability to maintain FC overnight with 1.0 or less drop in FC ppm.

So that means if you take your FC up to 20 tonight (btw, I'd stop using cal hypo and start using bleach), your FC tomorrow morning should be no less than 19ppm.

If you do that test, I think your FC will be closer to 14ppm or so indicating the clear presence of algae in your pool.

 

[ndemond]

Thanks again for the quick replies.

I will shock the pool again to raise my FC level.
And also lower my TA.

i have had a pool for about 8 years and never ran into a problem of clearing it in the spring. So this one just has me stumped. Also I have been reading lots of post here and every one mentions or uses regular bleach or liquid CL. I have never used it before but once clear I will give it a try.

Poolife and a few other companies still have them as high as 68 to 73%. These are getting harder and harder to find because at this concentration they are considered class III oxidizers and are more dangerous to store.

The above is what I have used for years.

Through the swim season I normally never have to do a heavy shock as I keep every thing pretty level. Only after extreme hot weeks or heavy bather load, and then it is just an extra scoop or two.

Thanks again and I'll return in a day or two if troubles continue.

Great site and will keep this book marked.