Some real numbers, so next steps should be....

[Notri4MeBikeSwim]

Taylor kit arrived and I ran a few tests, but super super tired, so may need to run more tomorrow.

TEST RESULTS
cya==70
FC==9
CC==0
PH==8.0
AD==3.5

POOL CONDITIONS
some algae growing
moderately clear [ very hard to tell as plaster is moddled ocean water color]
temp is about 76
highs next 8 days in low 90's
filter needs more spraying
debris baskets are clean
about 36k gallons [18x38x8]

Need to addressed
1- ph, again
2- algae
3- cya
4- filter media

Don't know if I need more tests, if you think any would be helpful, please advise.

Plan:
1. rinse out filter media, [no time to order new media]
2. drop ph. Think I need to add 1 gallon acid
3. wait 3 hrs with pump running
4. add 12 gal liq chlorine [but pick up another 12 for followup and more plastic gloves]
I think this will raise FC from 9 to 30


Questions:
1 is your preference disposable or rinseable gloves
2. what do you do with used sample/regeant mix?
3. does the CH number seem about right?
4. what else should I look out for?
5. would you leave the cya level alone, or plan to drain some of the pool to lower the level?

Thank you for reading and any comments

 

[257WbyMag]

What are the gloves for? Just curious.

pH does need to come down. Since you have algae, you need to shock your pool. With your CYA, this means raising your FC to 28 and holding it until you have no more algae,the water is clear, you have 0.5 CC or less, and your FC holds to within no more than a loss of 1 overnight. You could do a little draining and refilling to get that CYA down. Up to you though.

I don't see a CH in your results.

 

[Vette]

If you have algae, shock before you play with the rest.

-Sent from Galaxy Note 2

 

[duraleigh]

If you have algae, shock before you play with the rest.

Almost right. Lower your pH before you begin to shock. Since you imply your pH has risen before (don't be stingy with info), lower your pH down to around 7.2 - 7.4. Use the pool calculator to tell you how much acid.

Now, start the shock process. Follow the article in Pool School precisely.....it's not a one time dose of chlorine.

1 is your preference disposable or rinseable gloves
2. what do you do with used sample/regeant mix?
3. does the CH number seem about right?
4. what else should I look out for?
5. would you leave the cya level alone, or plan to drain some of the pool to lower the level?

1. I don't use gloves
2. Toss them out....quite harmless
3. What does "AD" mean in your test results? there is no CH.
4. Not shocking the pool correctly....read the article
5. I'd leave it alone....it's where you want to be for an SWG.

 

[Notri4MeBikeSwim]

1. gloves are for safety with liquid chlorine and muriac acid in case gets on skin, vs 20 minute skin wash
2. great, good to know. all kinds of warnings on unmixed chemicals
3. AD is acid demand drops for ph test. I was dropping too fast and was clear at 3 drops even though I used 4 drops.
5. it's a fresh water pool.

the ph seems to be rising from the chlorine, or something. have to remove some leaves weekly and sometimes daily. polaris gets run on long cycle at least once a week. ch was my abbrev for chlorine. fc is free chlorine, cc is combined chlorine.I also lose water and had to had hose running about 30 min to raise the water level. Haven't tested ph of city water. now that warm weather is here, 90's for next 8 days, it'll probably be 60-90 min of water add a week.

 

[duraleigh]

5. it's a fresh water pool.

Sorry, I assumed SWG. Then CYA is a bit high (should be 50ppm) but it sounds like you are adding quite a bit of water as routine maintenance so it may reduce on it's own.

 

[Notri4MeBikeSwim]

Very interesting experiment.

Treatments since last update

1.5 gal muriac acid
12 gallons of 10% chlorine
boy did the pool smell of chlorine
started the polaris
left the pool pump on all night

This mornings sample
STRIPS
FC ==10
Alkaline 100
PH 7.4

TAYLOR
FC == 000 <------------#####
CC == 000 <------------#####


Added 6 gallons chlorine

Tonight
STRIPS {aquacheck 5}
FC == 10
others the same

TAYLOR
{NOTE: previous FC measures are 5x too high}

FC == 22
Total Alka == 125
Calc Carb/hardness == 750
PH == 7.8
CYA == 55 {more careful testing}


Observations:
1- water is now clear. But, alas, even with clear clear water the pool doesn't look great. I think it's because the
moddled sea foam plaster looks ugly, but I imagine a plaster job would be 4k plus 30 days without the pool, but
that is just a stab in the air with no supporting facts.
2- algae is gone
3- ph has risen again

Interested in theories for:
1. difference in FC between strips & Taylor
2. why Taylor showed 0 chlorine this morning. My best guess is the 90 min run of the polaris
stirred up the water so much, the chlorine evaporated.

Not planning on swimming for a few days, so probably will leave the FC high but need to get some acid to lower the ph.

Any suggestions for next steps and why the difference between the test results?

 

[Smykowski]

why the difference between the test results?

Test strips are a half step below worthless.

It is possible that there is still low level algae in your pool consuming your chlorine and you just can't see it. Only an OCLT will confirm this.

 

[fast1971chevelle]

I would not trust your ph test, when Chlorine is above 10 ppm it throws of the pH test.
Are you following the shock process ....add chlorine.....wait a hour and test and repeat....etc ? Also a good daily brushing is in order....lol

 

[Notri4MeBikeSwim]

haven't tested today, just ran polaris two cycles. The polaris is an electric pool cleaner with two rollers with about a dozen wavy semi hard plastic surfaces. It gathers a lot of debris and seems to break up the algae previously. Excellent point about algae "not seen". I'll get tests tomorrow. Water still appears clear and pump was running only about 8 hrs today, vs normal 5-6. One turn is about 5 hours of pump time. Very windy today so fair amount of stuff blown into pool. Most is out, but some will surely be there tomorrow.

I don't know the OCLT abbreviation.

 

[Richard320]

haven't tested today, just ran polaris two cycles. The polaris is an electric pool cleaner with two rollers with about a dozen wavy semi hard plastic surfaces. It gathers a lot of debris and seems to break up the algae previously. Excellent point about algae "not seen". I'll get tests tomorrow. Water still appears clear and pump was running only about 8 hrs today, vs normal 5-6. One turn is about 5 hours of pump time. Very windy today so fair amount of stuff blown into pool. Most is out, but some will surely be there tomorrow.

I don't know the OCLT abbreviation.

Overnight chlorine loss test.

Chlorine is consumed by sunlight and by organics. Eliminate sunlight and if you don't lose any, you don't have organics aka algae. Simple, huh? You'll need the FAS-DPD test for it. Take a reading after the sun stops shining on the pool then recheck it in the morning before the sun hits it again. There's a longer explanation in Pool School.

 

[pwrstrk]

haven't tested today, just ran polaris two cycles. The polaris is an electric pool cleaner with two rollers with about a dozen wavy semi hard plastic surfaces. It gathers a lot of debris and seems to break up the algae previously. Excellent point about algae "not seen". I'll get tests tomorrow. Water still appears clear and pump was running only about 8 hrs today, vs normal 5-6. One turn is about 5 hours of pump time. Very windy today so fair amount of stuff blown into pool. Most is out, but some will surely be there tomorrow.

I don't know the OCLT abbreviation.

Over night chlorine loss test


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[pwrstrk]

Whoops Richard beat me.


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[Notri4MeBikeSwim]

Must have worked, even though sloppy method. Tested today and FC is still 7 and CC is 0. You're right don't need phosphate reducers. Water looks nice and clear, thank you all for your help.