For several years I've had a Pool Frog mineral system and this year I'm switching to a SWG. The pool is still under cover until May 15th but I have purchased and will have installed next week by the local pool service company a Pentair IC-40 Intellichlor cell and power center. They will leave the salt for me to add when I remove the cover and startup the pool. My question, what procedures do I follow? I assume I will: top the pool off, start the pump, charge the filter, test the water and balance as per instructions at Pool School. Does it matter when I add the salt, before or after balancing the water. Then do I shock the pool and turn on the SWG? Are there any concerns with the minerals that were added by the Pool Frog. I have a Taylor K2006 test kit. I may not have shown it in my profile but, I'm near Philadelphia, PA. Great Site! Glad I found it.
How to startup with new saltwater chlorine generator.
- Thread starter oneyellowbird
- Start date
- Nov 13, 2012
- 96
I used a combination of instructions from this website and the manual that came with the swcg (I have the IC-20). If your water is balanced, then there may be no need to shock it. I got my water balanced, put in the salt, and cranked that joker up. I first put the chlorine output on 20% (I have a smallish pool) with a run time of 12 hours and slowly started bringing down the run time. Right now I am sitting at 8 hour run time at 40% chlorine output - that seems to be the sweet spot at 5ppm.
The best advice I can give you is don't dump it all in the deep end with the main drains pulling most of the water...kinda clogged me up a little bit.
Good luck.
Sciz
The best advice I can give you is don't dump it all in the deep end with the main drains pulling most of the water...kinda clogged me up a little bit.
Good luck.
Sciz
Welcome to TFP!!!It does not matter when you add the salt, but do not turn on the SWG for at least 24 hours after all the salt is dissolved ... and do not turn it on if you have to go through the shock process.
If you do not have staining from the metals now, you will likely be fine since you will no longer be adding any. You could have the water tested for metals (pool store) and possibly replace some water if they were high. You may need to replace water anyway if the CH or more likely the CYA are high.
Once you open and top off, run the pump for a day and then do a full set of tests and post the results and we can help you determine a course of action
elwood58
LifeTime Supporter
Balance your water, and shock only if needed. If shock is required, complete the shock process before adding your salt. Spread the salt by dumping around the perimeter. I would keep a few bags back until things are fully mixed and you get a chance to check salt content. Run your pump for a good long cycle before turning on the SWG. Sweeping the salt around helps it to dissolve much faster. As stated earlier, you will want to play around with % and pump run time for several days to get things dialed in. As the season progresses, you may have to adjust again due to higher temperatures and higher sun angle.
You are also likely going to need to adjust your CYA up a bit. SWG Pools seem to do best with CYA in the 70-80 range.
You are also likely going to need to adjust your CYA up a bit. SWG Pools seem to do best with CYA in the 70-80 range.
Myself? I'd get it opened, do the shock process if needed, get it all balanced, raise CYA if needed, and when everything's good, add the salt and fire off the SWG.
Do you have kids? Search "Diamond Day" Just like that, quotes and all. Grteat idea.
Do you have kids? Search "Diamond Day" Just like that, quotes and all. Grteat idea.
I opened the pool this past weekend and have been adding muriatic acid to reduce the PH.
FAC 0
TAV 0
CH 225
CYA 40
TA 180
PH 8+
TDS 1100
Pho 0
When I was not home, the pool service company came by and installed the IntelliChlor IC40, about 500 lb. of salt, left (2) 40 lb. bags of salt, and left the instruction manual. The SWG unit was on and set at 40% output and had been running about 5 hrs. when I got home. The top Green LED was flashing indicating the Salt Level is above 4500 ppm. As recommended from the posts above, I turned off the SWG and will allow 24 hrs for the salt to dissolve.
After I get the PH down (7.5 - 7.6) range, I assume the TA will drop between 60 - 80 ppm. Next step, I guess, is to get the CH to 300. After that, try to get the CYA to 70 - 80 ppm. Then I shock the pool and wait 4 hrs. to turn on the SWG? I'm not sure this is the correct sequence and time frame between chemical treatments. Any suggestions. Thanks
FAC 0
TAV 0
CH 225
CYA 40
TA 180
PH 8+
TDS 1100
Pho 0
When I was not home, the pool service company came by and installed the IntelliChlor IC40, about 500 lb. of salt, left (2) 40 lb. bags of salt, and left the instruction manual. The SWG unit was on and set at 40% output and had been running about 5 hrs. when I got home. The top Green LED was flashing indicating the Salt Level is above 4500 ppm. As recommended from the posts above, I turned off the SWG and will allow 24 hrs for the salt to dissolve.
After I get the PH down (7.5 - 7.6) range, I assume the TA will drop between 60 - 80 ppm. Next step, I guess, is to get the CH to 300. After that, try to get the CYA to 70 - 80 ppm. Then I shock the pool and wait 4 hrs. to turn on the SWG? I'm not sure this is the correct sequence and time frame between chemical treatments. Any suggestions. Thanks
You can and should adjust the pH now. TA will come down on its own if you keep lowering pH every time it gets to 7.8 or above. CYA can be added right now, if you're confident of your reading. Use the sock method. Don't bother retesting CYA for a week or so, just assume that if you aimed for 70, it's 70. After the muriatic acid has had half an hour or so to mix, get some bleach in there. About a gallon and a half of 8.25% Chlorox. Don't let the algae get a grip while waiting for the SWG to catch up!
CH is pretty close to the low end of reccomended; I wouldn't bother buying any increaser. But if you have some, then use it.
CH is pretty close to the low end of reccomended; I wouldn't bother buying any increaser. But if you have some, then use it.
You have one of the recommend pool test kits .... why are you posting pool store results? Trust your own tests!!!
elwood58
LifeTime Supporter
I would also leave the SWG running. I had the same High Salt indication, but it settled down after a few days. Salt dissolves quickly.
Definitely leave the SWG off for 24 hours after adding salt ... high salt concentrations running through the SWG can damage them.
I've been adding chemicals and aerating the pool and after about 12 days, I have these numbers:
3.0 FC
2.0 CC
7.3 PH
125 TA
300 CH
70 CYA
16 Borates (from pool store)
3400 PPM Salt (from pool store)
I bought a $19 PVC pipe aerator from Amazon to lower the TA http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024N ... UTF8&psc=1 It's working but its slow going. I have the SWG running and set at 60%.
My questions - Do I need to shock again to lower the CC to < 0.5 ppm; Do I add more acid now to lower the TA or, wait until the PH rises to 7.8 before lowering again. Do I wait until my TA drops to 60 - 80 ppm before I add Borates, or can I add my 20 mule-teem now while my TA is high and I'm aerating. I've been running the pump about 12hrs/day. The water looks great! The DE filter pressure only went from 17 PSI to 20 PSI. I used the liquid CYA. the water temp is 74 degrees.
Thanks for the help.
3.0 FC
2.0 CC
7.3 PH
125 TA
300 CH
70 CYA
16 Borates (from pool store)
3400 PPM Salt (from pool store)
I bought a $19 PVC pipe aerator from Amazon to lower the TA http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024N ... UTF8&psc=1 It's working but its slow going. I have the SWG running and set at 60%.
My questions - Do I need to shock again to lower the CC to < 0.5 ppm; Do I add more acid now to lower the TA or, wait until the PH rises to 7.8 before lowering again. Do I wait until my TA drops to 60 - 80 ppm before I add Borates, or can I add my 20 mule-teem now while my TA is high and I'm aerating. I've been running the pump about 12hrs/day. The water looks great! The DE filter pressure only went from 17 PSI to 20 PSI. I used the liquid CYA. the water temp is 74 degrees.
Thanks for the help.
Forget about the TA and borates and focus on the CC ... that is too high and indicates you need to follow the Shocking Your Pool PROCESS ... that is with the SWG off and the pump running 24/7
After that is done, you can focus on lowering the TA (pool-school/lowering%20total%20alkalinity) ... and then optionally adding borates if you really want to.
Backwash your filter when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure ... starting at 17 that would be around 21 psi.
After that is done, you can focus on lowering the TA (pool-school/lowering%20total%20alkalinity) ... and then optionally adding borates if you really want to.
Backwash your filter when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure ... starting at 17 that would be around 21 psi.
Thanks for the quick reply jblizzle.
I read the "Shocking Your Pool process" and another post on how much chlorine needed to shock (5/31/2012 by doublewide6).
I calculate from the pool calculator I need 9 gallons of 6% liquid chlorine. <Chlorine / CYA Chart w/SWG> CYA 70 - Shock FC 28 = 1150 oz 6% bleach to rais FC to 25, salt 41.
Questions:
1. After I shock with 9 gallons liquid chlorine do I use the FAS-DPD test to check FC and CC
2. Will I need more shock than the 9 gallons to drop the CC? If so, any guess on amount of chlorine needed?
Thanks.
I read the "Shocking Your Pool process" and another post on how much chlorine needed to shock (5/31/2012 by doublewide6).
I calculate from the pool calculator I need 9 gallons of 6% liquid chlorine. <Chlorine / CYA Chart w/SWG> CYA 70 - Shock FC 28 = 1150 oz 6% bleach to rais FC to 25, salt 41.
Questions:
1. After I shock with 9 gallons liquid chlorine do I use the FAS-DPD test to check FC and CC
2. Will I need more shock than the 9 gallons to drop the CC? If so, any guess on amount of chlorine needed?
Thanks.
1. Yes, you have to use the FAS-DPD to test for FC and CC throughout the process.
2. Yes ... you need to keep test the FC and raising it back up to the shock level, at least a few time a day, until you pass the 3 criteria to stop. No idea how much more you might need.
2. Yes ... you need to keep test the FC and raising it back up to the shock level, at least a few time a day, until you pass the 3 criteria to stop. No idea how much more you might need.
MY READINGS ARE GOING IN THE WRONG DIRECTION!
The water is clear.
Readings before 1st shock:
FC 0.50
CC 2.0
CYA 80
I started the shock process 24 hrs ago.
Sat 12:00 pm 6 gallons of liquid chlorine (12.0% from pool store)
1:00 pm test
FC 8.5
CC 1.5
2:45pm 4 gallons of liquid chlorine (12.0%)
3:45 pm test
FC 7.0
CC 2.5
3:45pm 4 gallons of liquid chlorine (12.0%)
10:00pm test
FC 1.5
CC 1.5
10:00pm 5 1/2 gallons of liquid chlorine (12.5% from Leslies)
8:30am (Sun) test
FC 0.5
CC 1.0
9:15am 6 gallons of liquid chlorine (12.5%)
10:30am test
FC 0.5
CC 7.0 (yes, 7.0)
The pressure is not building up in the DE filter. Two weeks ago it was 17 PSI, it went up to 20 PSI and remains at 20 PSI during the shock process.
With a CYA of 80 in SWG pool, I can't get the FC anywhere near the 30 after adding the chlorine. I don't understand why the CC is going up. As I type this note, the CC test has again turned red from colorless. Adding two more drops of R0871 made the test clear so I guess my CC is 8.0.
Am I doing something wrong. The numbers are going in the wrong direction. Do I go out and buy more liquid chlorine? I've already added 25 1/2 gallons in 24 hrs!
Need some advice.
The water is clear.
Readings before 1st shock:
FC 0.50
CC 2.0
CYA 80
I started the shock process 24 hrs ago.
Sat 12:00 pm 6 gallons of liquid chlorine (12.0% from pool store)
1:00 pm test
FC 8.5
CC 1.5
2:45pm 4 gallons of liquid chlorine (12.0%)
3:45 pm test
FC 7.0
CC 2.5
3:45pm 4 gallons of liquid chlorine (12.0%)
10:00pm test
FC 1.5
CC 1.5
10:00pm 5 1/2 gallons of liquid chlorine (12.5% from Leslies)
8:30am (Sun) test
FC 0.5
CC 1.0
9:15am 6 gallons of liquid chlorine (12.5%)
10:30am test
FC 0.5
CC 7.0 (yes, 7.0)
The pressure is not building up in the DE filter. Two weeks ago it was 17 PSI, it went up to 20 PSI and remains at 20 PSI during the shock process.
With a CYA of 80 in SWG pool, I can't get the FC anywhere near the 30 after adding the chlorine. I don't understand why the CC is going up. As I type this note, the CC test has again turned red from colorless. Adding two more drops of R0871 made the test clear so I guess my CC is 8.0.
Am I doing something wrong. The numbers are going in the wrong direction. Do I go out and buy more liquid chlorine? I've already added 25 1/2 gallons in 24 hrs!
Need some advice.
Ignore the fact that the sample turns back to pink when you leave it sit on the counter for awhile.
How much powder are you using? Does the sample start with a nice deep pink?
What color is the OTO chlorine test?
How much powder are you using? Does the sample start with a nice deep pink?
What color is the OTO chlorine test?
1:00pm Test (2 1/2 hrs after last test)
Using a Taylor K-2006 FAS-DPD kiit (one year old kit)
Added 14 drippers of R-0870 DPD Powder. (previous test took 2 drippers) 10 ml sample is a slight pink
1 drop of R-0871 Titrating Agent turns color to a murky white
5 drops R-003 DPD Reagent turns sample a deep pink
9 drops of R-0871 turns sample to clear.
FC 0.50
CC:4.5
I do not have an OTO chlorine test.
CYA 75
Test by pool store yesterday (my numbers the previous day):
FC 0.37 (I had 3.0)
TC 2.09 (I had 2.0)
CC 1.72
PH 7.4 (I had 7.3)
CYA 87 (I had 70)
Is my test kit OK? Do I need to buy new/different kit or upgrade my reagents? Or, is the problem with the pool water? The water is clear.
Using a Taylor K-2006 FAS-DPD kiit (one year old kit)
Added 14 drippers of R-0870 DPD Powder. (previous test took 2 drippers) 10 ml sample is a slight pink
1 drop of R-0871 Titrating Agent turns color to a murky white
5 drops R-003 DPD Reagent turns sample a deep pink
9 drops of R-0871 turns sample to clear.
FC 0.50
CC:4.5
I do not have an OTO chlorine test.
CYA 75
Test by pool store yesterday (my numbers the previous day):
FC 0.37 (I had 3.0)
TC 2.09 (I had 2.0)
CC 1.72
PH 7.4 (I had 7.3)
CYA 87 (I had 70)
Is my test kit OK? Do I need to buy new/different kit or upgrade my reagents? Or, is the problem with the pool water? The water is clear.
You are adding way too much powder. Your FC is zero, so the powder will not change the water pink. The OTO that comes with the TF100 would have confirmed that without wasting so much powder.
If the sample does not flash pink with one scoop, then likely your FC is zero. If it did flash pink and then go clear, you likely need a second scoop, you should not really ever need more than 2 scoops.
If the sample does not flash pink with one scoop, then likely your FC is zero. If it did flash pink and then go clear, you likely need a second scoop, you should not really ever need more than 2 scoops.
OK, my FC = 0
I've already added 25 1/2 gallons of liquid chlorine (12% - 12/5%) in the past 24 hrs. The water is clear.
Do I continue shocking?
I've already added 25 1/2 gallons of liquid chlorine (12% - 12/5%) in the past 24 hrs. The water is clear.
Do I continue shocking?