Help we bought house last spring past owners opened pool but didn't leave instruction and I can't get them to email me back. They use to do a 'no drain acid wash'. Pool is 30,000 gallons salt water, no winter cover, have vacuumed, shocked and not murky darkish blue color but sides of walls have white scaling on them. I have tried everything. Please someone tell me all the steps to do the 'no drain acid wash' ALL THE STEPS so i can get this pool fixed. Desperate for help.. The pool is the smooth finish like those of the viking pools.
Saltwater pool murky - how to do a no drain acid wash
- Thread starter mwitt21w
- Start date
Welcome to the forum. :lol:
Is your water clear? Can you post test results to give us the chemical condition of your water? Those things need to be done before you attempt an acid wash.
Welcome to TFP.
Acid washing is hard on the pool surface. Before you even consider an acid wash, you need to understand the water chemistry you are dealing with. It's much easier to prevent than to acid wash at all. It sounds like you have a fiberglass pool, so any calcium you have in the water is either naturally occuring or it has been added to the pool. For certain, stop using any form of calcium hypochlorite shock or chlorination granules.
It's important to know the calcium hardness of your fill water and the calcium hardness of your pool water, along with the pH of the water. You need an accurate and complete set of test results to choose your course. It may be possible to simply maintain a low pH level and avoid the problem in the future.
It would be helpful if we knew the region where you live. In some parts of the country, there are resources for dealing with high calcium levels that aren't available in other areas.
Acid washing is hard on the pool surface. Before you even consider an acid wash, you need to understand the water chemistry you are dealing with. It's much easier to prevent than to acid wash at all. It sounds like you have a fiberglass pool, so any calcium you have in the water is either naturally occuring or it has been added to the pool. For certain, stop using any form of calcium hypochlorite shock or chlorination granules.
It's important to know the calcium hardness of your fill water and the calcium hardness of your pool water, along with the pH of the water. You need an accurate and complete set of test results to choose your course. It may be possible to simply maintain a low pH level and avoid the problem in the future.
It would be helpful if we knew the region where you live. In some parts of the country, there are resources for dealing with high calcium levels that aren't available in other areas.
Welcome to tfp, mwitt21w 
No to beat a dead horse, but the water clarity issue needs to be dealt with first before even considering an acid wash. You might even find that the acid wash is not needed. We need to see some chemistry test values to begin to help. Please see: http://www.troublefreepool.com/what-we-need-to-know-to-answer-your-questions-t10341.html
No to beat a dead horse, but the water clarity issue needs to be dealt with first before even considering an acid wash. You might even find that the acid wash is not needed. We need to see some chemistry test values to begin to help. Please see: http://www.troublefreepool.com/what-we-need-to-know-to-answer-your-questions-t10341.html
Missouri- Middle of the state. Last year when we bought pool it was clear all summer no problems with anything. It is a salt water pool and we cleaned the filters several times by rinsing with garden hose.
What kit are you using? You need to get some more reagents, ASAP as you will not know what to do until you can test the CYA.
You clearly need to read these and follow the process:
Defeating Algae
Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
Shocking Your Pool
Also, Please add your pool details and location as described HERE as it will help us help you.
You clearly need to read these and follow the process:
Defeating Algae
Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
Shocking Your Pool
Also, Please add your pool details and location as described HERE as it will help us help you.
CYA: 10
I read those handouts that is why I am here now, since I can't get it to work it's self out..
30000 gallon fiberglass, Pentair Clean & Clear Plus 420, Pentair Whisperflow WF-23, Pentair Intellichlor Generator
I read those handouts that is why I am here now, since I can't get it to work it's self out..
30000 gallon fiberglass, Pentair Clean & Clear Plus 420, Pentair Whisperflow WF-23, Pentair Intellichlor Generator
Put the information in your signature like that link describes so we do not have to search for this 1 post with your details in it, thanks.
Well, if you have read those, why are you not following the shock process to clear up the water?
Did you buy more CYA reagent? Do you have one of the recommended test kits that includes the FAS-DPD chlorine test?
You need to raise the CYA to 30ppm and then maintain a FC level 12 ppm until you pass the 3 criteria to stop.
Well, if you have read those, why are you not following the shock process to clear up the water?
Did you buy more CYA reagent? Do you have one of the recommended test kits that includes the FAS-DPD chlorine test?
You need to raise the CYA to 30ppm and then maintain a FC level 12 ppm until you pass the 3 criteria to stop.
Test kit is HTH, it tests hardness, ph, alkalinity, etc. Then I have aquachems test strips as back up comparison.
Well, you need to invest in a better kit as at this point you can not test the FC and CC accurately.
And the test strips tend to not be worth anything as they are too unreliable and subjective.
And the test strips tend to not be worth anything as they are too unreliable and subjective.
I have shocked twice already (did that first) then added algaecide which helped tremendously since water was gross from winter, vacuumed and dipped out leaves and stuff. Then add some MA to reduce the PH and add a 3 part 1 step salt water opening/maintenance stuff (lowers metals, etc). We have been trying to contact first owners to get more information on pool, I calculated pool gallons and depending on the one we use I show less gallons than original owners told us.
Please read the tfp shocking process, it is not a one time application of chlorine but holding chlorine at a higher level until you have verified you have killed the algae. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/shocking_your_pool
Okay, so I have done everything to the T, even in the cold misty rain all weekend. PH is down, alkalinity is down, FC and Chlorine registers good have shocked and shocked cleaned filters and still Cloudy water..I just don't get it.
Be more specific. What FC level are you maintaining? Did you raise your CYA to 20-30ppm to protect the FC from the sun?
Ignore pH and TA until the shock process is complete.
We want numbers not "registered good".
Ignore pH and TA until the shock process is complete.
We want numbers not "registered good".
If the water is still cloudy, you are not done shocking. I believe I have the link in my signature. As Jason said, you will need to post specific numbers for us to help.