Using Trichlor and Cal hypo on regular basis

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wtfpakemo

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Apr 8, 2013
17
Hello,

new pool user here ...

I currently have a basic pool test kit and planning on getting the Taylor k2006c prolly in a month or so ...

Our commercial pool water is currently turning green, I plan to use trichlor tabs and calhypo to shock my pool, trichlor tabs will be used for the CYA since I am suspecting that my chlorine gets burned off from the sunlight (no CYA test on my test kit, also no pool store near by), I dont have any access to to CYA sellers on our place (Philippines), so my last resort is using trichlor tabs ...

my question is if its ok to use Cal hypo to shock the pool then use a floater for the tablets afterwards ...

we have a estimated 50k+ gallons pool, not so sure since its a free shaped pool with a lot of curves ...
 
As long as the 2 forms of chlorine do not come into physical contact with each other, it is fine to use both.

You are aware that if you maintain the correct FC levels, there is never a need to "shock" the pool on a regular basis. Now that it is green though, you need to follow the shock process described in Pool School ... doing that will be very difficult with the proper test kit.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
so far I have been using Cal-hypo to chlorinate the pool ...

1 kg of cal-hypo per day ... my reading goes up to 5.0 or more I think (its a basic OTO test kit) every night (7pm) then goes to zero every morning (10am) when the sun is up ... dont have anything to test my CYA levels but im guessing the chlorine is being burned by the sun fast ... I tested it FC at 4am in the morning and its still there but whenever the sun is up it goes to zero ... or drops gradually ...

I also plan to use cal-hypo to shock my pool later tonight ... planning on using 6kg of cal-hypo then using 6pcs 3' tablets on the floater ...

ill post my readings later when I get to the resort currently at home ..

but I always try to drop my p.h to around the orange levels (7.0) before chlorinating ... I use aeration to raise my PH if needed ...

am I doing it wrong ...? :?
 
am I doing it wrong ...?
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Yes. You should be testing your water to find out where your important parameters are. You are currently doing way too much guesswork on a green pool and see no importance in testing.
planning on getting the Taylor k2006c prolly in a month or so
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So what will you do in the meantime? Pool School has a lot of articles that can help get you started but sooner or later, you are going to have to make a decision as to how you want to manage the pool.
 
duraleigh said:
Yes. You should be testing your water to find out where your important parameters are. You are currently doing way too much guesswork on a green pool and see no importance in testing.
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Well cnt really help it if the good test kits are not available in our area ... and shipping from the US to here takes like a month or so (cheapest) ...

my test kit can only test FC,CC,PH,TA,Acid Base Demand ...

FC = 0 (plain transparent)
CC = 0 (waited 2mins still plain transparent)
PH = 7.6 - 7.7 (pinkish color)
TA = 150

and its currently an on operation pool so I cnt let the green water stay for too long so jst trying to find a good advice here or so ....

I am in the process of ordering a Taylor K-2006c but as I said will take about a month at least before it gets shipped here ...

so basically Im screwed and cnt really do much until I get a good test kit?
 
No one sells CYA as a single item in our area (heck they dont even know it) ..

I cant measure CYA, my test kit does not have anymeans to measure CYA ..

I have added like 20 pcs of 3' tablets on my pool in the last 5 months or so ... first 5 pcs was via skimmer (not a good idea they say), last 15pcs was via floater(newly bought) ....

thats the only CYA I know that have gone to the pool ..

I only use Cal-hypo, muriatic acid on my pool ...

I always loose 1' to 2' of water daily if I get like 5-10 bathers ...

I always refill the water loosed via well water every night cause I cant use my skimmer if I loose 2' of water it tends to suck up air if the water goes down to much ...

*EDIT: the tablets were massco no. 1 - 104, 99% inert, 90% chlorine ... or something like that ...
 
Ok, then based on that, you can easily assume you have ZERO CYA in the pool. The splashout would have gotten rid of what little the pucks put in.

Now, you need to get your CYA up to 20 ppm or so but you say you can't buiy it, right? Then go to the pool calculator and go to the bottom. You will see an "effects on adding chemicals" at the bottom of the page. From there figure out how many pucks it will take you to get to 30 ppm and start using them as many as you can put in the pool.

Your pump has to be running 24/7 during this process.

Next, go to the store and purchase enough bleach (use the calculator) to get to 12ppm and buy at least three times that much....you will need it.

Tonight, or whatever evening you start, put enough bleach in the pool to get to 12 ppm. Then start testing using the elcheapo test kit you have. As soon as the FC drops down to the top range of that kit, add enough bleach to get right back up to 12 ppm.

Continue this procedure until your pool is crystal clear. Once the pool is clear, continue to use the pucks (but not Cal Hypo) to chlorinate....the excessive splashout you have should prevent your CYA from getting to high.

All this is just shooting from the hip and NOTHING I would suggest when and if you can get a kit you can depend on and access to CYA. In the meantime, it might be close enough to get your pool clear and get you by.
 

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tnx a lot ... thats a really helpful reply ..

one more question how much oz is a 3' tab ...? pool calculator says I need 22 oz of trichlor to reach 3 FC and 18 CYA ...

I only have 1 floater would that be enough to chlorinate my 50k gallons pool ...? 1 floater can hold up to 5 pcs 3' tabs ...
 
The pucks are 6-8oz each usually ... can you weigh a few of them to find out what yours are?

But, I do not think something is right with what you did in the calculator ... oh, it was just a decimal place. 22 oz will add 3ppm FC and 1.8ppm CYA

If you use the bottom and iterate the weight of trichlor, you can see that you will need 360 oz (22.5 lbs) of trichlor to add 30ppm of CYA.
 
oh darn my bad ... yah missed the decimal point there ... ill go and check the weight of my trichlor, I do have gram based scale ^_^ ... tnx a lot ..

@duraleigh

maam/sir, I used my remaining cal-hypo to shock my pool since it is the only thing available, cause if you believe it or not its hard to find a unscented clorox here that have a label on how much chlorine it have ... the branded ones (ones with chlorine labels) are quite expensive in our place ...

using the pool cal my FC should be at around 20ppm using my elcheapo test kit its on the brownish color ... sadly my test kit can only register up to 5.0ppm thats a dark yellow color, so im just putting my best bet on the pool cal ...

Ive used 5.5kg of cal-hypo and dropped the ph to 7.3 before putting the cal-hypo ...

and Ive also putted 5 pcs of trichlo on the floater and let it float around the pool ... hoping thats ok ... since I want to minimize as much as I can the FC that will be lost to the sunlight and keep my FC high even when the sun is up ... I hope its ok ...

well praying for the best, I really hope they start to sell those test kits here in the Philippines ...

BTW awhile ago before shocking my pool water was warm, now after 4hrs into the shocking process the water is cold ... is there any significance on the temperature change ..?
 
Try a Chemical shop and ask for Isocyanuric acid, it come in tablet. I'm in Bangkok, Thailand with the same problem (Pool shop don't know what CYA is).

A Chem shop in my town have Isocyanuric acid for sale in bulk of 25 kg. for about 3,000 Baht (4,000PHP , 100USD).
 
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