See my results using the TF100 kit; any suggestions?

[Ahchoo]

Just got my test kit today and did the pool water test. The results:

FC 4.5
CC 1
TC 5.5
TA 170
CH 500? (I added 50 drops already and the solution looked like fine pinkish/light red dots floating in the water)
CYA 70-80? (hint of black dot on 70, and unable to see black dots at 80)
PH 8
Salt 1980

The water is a a bit yellow/green with some sediment on the bottom. So what to do, should I shock the pool? I know I need to adjust my PH and TA - but do I also need to add muriatic acid to lower the PH? Any suggestions or steps to take are appreciated. Thx

 

[Vette]

If you have yellow/green water and CC of 1, I would start shocking (I assume you know the shock process used here?) pool-school/shocking_your_pool

 

[pwrstrk]

I agree. At 80 ppm of cya your going to need a lot of bleach.


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[Ahchoo]

I do have several bag of aqua chem. 58% sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione. Is it a good idea to uses these or should I stick with bleach?

 

[pwrstrk]

If it were me I'd use bleach.


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[Richard320]

It's going to be tough to perform the shock process with CYA that high. However, the expense might be a tradeoff between the cost if the water (That's a big pool!) and the salt you'd lose. If, as you say, it's discolored but you can see to the bottom, it might be worth a try. Your CH is also high, and it will get higher as the summer progresses, so a partial drain might not be a bad idea.

Use bleach to shock - your CYA and CH are already too high to use any of the powders.

Whichever you decide - partial drain first or straight to the shock process- do it quick before that greenish tint turns into a greenish sludge.

 

[duraleigh]

1. Lower your pH using muriatic until you get it down in the mid 7's.

2. Shock the pool. Do not use that dichlor as it will add a LOT of CYA to your pool and you already have a bit too much. Shock with bleach and follow the article in Pool School PRECISELY until your water is crystal clear.

3. Your CH and TA are a bit high but disregard them until you get your pool crystal clear.

 

[Ahchoo]

Wow. I have to add 26 cups of muriatic and 400lb of salt to bring it to a recommend level. I will start those 2 first. Let it run a day than shock.

 

[duraleigh]

I would suggest you get a gallon of muriatic acid and put about 1/2 of it in, run the pump for about an hour and then retest.....I think you will be pretty close. I'm not sure how you got 26 cups (about 1.6 gallons?) but I don't think that's right.

You can add the salt anytime. Don't use the SWG to shock the pool so you could add the salt later.

 

[Ahchoo]

I would suggest you get a gallon of muriatic acid and put about 1/2 of it in, run the pump for about an hour and then retest.....I think you will be pretty close. I'm not sure how you got 26 cups (about 1.6 gallons?) but I don't think that's right.

You can add the salt anytime. Don't use the SWG to shock the pool so you could add the salt later.

According to the pool calculator. For 32k pool. Now is at 8 and goal is 7. It comes out to be 215 oz. which is 26 cups. I'll start with half a gallon than retest.

 

[jblizzle]

Why are you trying to drop it all the way to 7? Also note the the TA must be set as that affects the pH adjustment.

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[Ahchoo]

I am lowering the PH to 7.5. Than start the shocking process.

 

[Ahchoo]

Here is what currently stands.
Pool pump been running 24/7 except cleaning filter.

4/26
Light green water. Cloudy
Ph7.5 FC 3.5 CC 0.5
Add 8(121oz)
Retest and FC 40

4/27
6 AM FC 35 CC1
Add 1/2 bottle of bleach raise the FC 37
6 pm FC 32 CC 0.5
Clean CF psi was > 10
10 pm FC 28 and looks like CC is less than 0.5
The water looks white grayish cloudy and maybe a hint of green. The water is improving.
Starting on the overnight test and see what happen in the morning. Hope the FC holds.

 

[jblizzle]

Really no point in doing the OCLT until the water is clear.

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[duraleigh]

Really no point in doing the OCLT until the water is clear.

Copying jblizzles words for emphasis. Rookies often are anxious to do the OCLT but usually prematurely.

The OCLT is intended to confirm the END of the shock process when you can visually see your water is perfectly clear or when you have clear water but suspect you may have the beginning of algae. It wastes your chemistry to do it before your water is clear. (However, my two kids in college are very appreciative of any refill business. )

 

[Ahchoo]

What test is accurate when FC is at 23?

 

[Richard320]

What test is accurate when FC is at 23?

The FAS-DPD chlorine test - the one with powder - is accurate.

The OTO chlorine test is accurate, but the scale ends at 5, so you won't find your color there. It will be somewhere in the orange to brown spectrum at 23. So skip it.

The pH test will be skewed by the high FC during the shock process, so ignore it.

The TA test may change from green> pink to blue> yellow, but it's accurate.

The rest don't care. But really, during the shock process, all you need to test is FC and CC using the FAS-DPD test. Don't worry about the rest until the algae is all dead and gone.

 

[Ahchoo]

I am done with the shock and now I am waiting for the fc level to come down to 5. Than I will do the test.

 

[D_Nyholm]

I am done with the shock and now I am waiting for the fc level to come down to 5. Than I will do the test.

I didn't look it up but isn't the recommended fc level at 80 cya much higher than 5? You could just be letting new algae start up if you go too low.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

I am done with the shock and now I am waiting for the fc level to come down to 5. Than I will do the test.

Which test? No reason to let it drop to 5 to test anything.... and yes, 5 is too low for a CYA level of 80. At a minimum it should be 6, unless the pool is a SWG chlorinated pool. Then the min is 4.