Muriatic Acid vs. PH Down -- compelling reasons for MA?

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Swampwoman

Swampwoman

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Apr 27, 2012
3,765
Grand Rapids, MI
Hi all. Just wanted to see if the experts would weigh in on an internal debate.

I know MA is cheap and effective for lowering ph, and used it all sat season in my maiden voyage as a pool owner.

I am also a klutz, and have the acid marks to prove it. I did despite goggles splash near my eye area, and in general, I just hate the stuff.

I am not swg, so don't really have to use it al that often, eg every 10 days was the average last year. (The steady diet of jack's magic may have contributed). I do keep jets pointed up to keep lea debris moving toward the skimmer, which causes mild aeration ongoingly.

Apart from expense, is there any other compelling reason not to use dry acid instead? Eg. Efficacy or unintended results/by products?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
 
There can be a problem with sulfate buildup from using very large amounts of dry acid. If sulfate levels get high enough they can damage the coating on the SWG cell plates and potentially cause plaster problems as well. This is normally only an issue if you are using dry acid constantly, as low levels have no real impact.
 
I prefer the liquid as theres no chance of undissolved solids. I beleive there is a cost benefit as well.

As far as splashing.....if your pouring the acid from standing level on your decking into the pool its going to splash....I always get the bottle close to the water surface and dont have those issues. I reccomend you try that.

No splash = no problem :D
 
To put it simply Muriatic acid (HCl) breaks down into a Hydrogen ion and a Chlorine ion, both things you already have in Chlorinated water so there are no byproduct concerns like you may have with dry acid. Having said that dry acid does work ok in reasonable amounts.
 
Swampwoman,

I think I understand your concerns, I've not had splash issues, but have had a couple of close calls while handling the open jug. I also make sure my kids aren't nearby while handling it. I will probably continue to use MA but I worry about it.
 
Thanks guys, for the input. I just find when the bottle is full and I am having to pour into a cup even with the bottom in the water I'm not very good at controlling the pour rate (uncoordinated) and am crouched over it so somehow I have managed to still splash. Perhaps I need some yoga in my life ;)
 
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I've stop using a cup to measure the MA. I have gotten used to what a cup is roughly about and I shoot to lower my pH down to 7.5, so if I over do it a little, no harm, and if I under do it, I'll need to add some sooner than normal.

Use a jug filled with water and practice pouring, and in no time you will learn what a cup is while pouring the MA straight in to the pool. Your measurements don't need to be exact, rough amount is fine.
 
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jblizzle said:
Yeah, I never measure the acid (or the bleach). Just pour directly into the water with your best estimate.
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I don't measure either. My wife does the testing and I do the chemical handling and I tell her I've added MA in increments of "glugs"... generally 2, 4 or 6 glugs depending on if she says Ph is high, pretty high or very high...
 
I think there is also "no fume" MA, that is just more diluted than the full strength stuff that fumes when you pour it into the measuring cup.

I wouldn't put the MA bottle in the water, too much of a chance to let water in the MA bottle...this is bad as you should never add water to acid.
 
I just added a few more "glugs" of MA to our pool as DW said "it's still high today"... and as I put the bottle back she asked... is it OK to drip that stuff on the pavers? I asked "where?" and she said she saw a lot of small drips after my "glug" of pouring it.

I guess the acid will etch the color on the concrete? I'm hoping some minor drips will just blend in? I guess I'll be more careful though.
 
tmnt25 said:
So none of you mix the MA in a bucket with pool water first? Pool store told me I had to do it this way...
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Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't bother. I like the way I know that what I'm putting in is always diluted, and when I rinse the bucket I toss the water where I poured the acid and know it's really getting dispersed. But it is a bunch of extra handling.
 
I switched brands (was more by attrition...needed some and was near a pool store) and I'm not having near the fume problems or the pour problems I had before. The bottle is shaped differently, and is easier to pour. The strength is only a wee bit different (31%). I've also learned to glue in tread of essing with the measuring cup.

So thanks for talking me off the ledge :)
 
I've had dry acid settle to the bottom of my pool when the water was very cold (40F). It left marks on my colored plaster when not brushed within seconds. I imagine even with a white plaster pool with overall darkening from calcium or metals, that a noticeable light spot might occur if dry acid settles to the bottom. In my case, the light spots gradually darkened and disappeared after about a month.

MA on the other hand is dispersed pretty quickly and is less likely to damage underwater plaster, but I can see where MA has lots more damage potential when spilled on deck, coping or flesh.
 

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