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Thread: Tested PH and the color isn't on the strip

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    Tested PH and the color isn't on the strip

    The PH test came back as Red in color - do I add PH? The water is lime green, whiuch is a huge improvement from the swamp green it was yesterday.

    Thanks!

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Welcome to TFP!

    Can you tell us what brand/model of PH test you are using and what all of your other test numbers are?

    PH tests tend to be unreliable at high FC levels, such as you might have when shocking the pool.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  3. Back To Top    #3

    test results

    Used a stip kit - can't see the name packaging is in bad shape
    Total hardness over 1000
    fFree chlorine: 0/0 - used 2 gallons of bleach already
    PH Red in Color
    Alakalinity 80
    CYA 30-90

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Red normally means that the PH is very high. You can lower the PH with acid, either muriatic acid or dry acid (sometimes called PH Reducer or PH Down or Lo N Slo).

    High PH can lead to calcium scaling, particularly when your hardness is very high as yours is.

    Keep in mind that test strips are not very precise. When they are off the scale one way or the other there is obviously a problem. But you can't depend on them for exact readings. You should think about getting a high quality test kit.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Welcome to TFP!

    My suggestion is to take a water sample to the pool store for testing and post the #'s back here. Then we could give better answers instead of guesses.

    Also recommend the TF Test kit, link in my sig. It will allow you to take charge of your water. It is the best bang for your $ and it will save you time and money. Also, the seller, Dave, is a member of TFP and will be here to answer any questions you may have about the kit or testing issues.

    When you post back, please include your pool and equipment info in your sig. It would also be helpful to see a pic of your pool water.
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    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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