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Thread: pool refurb questions

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    pool refurb questions

    I purchased a house recently with an inground 22x40 oval pool (~32,000gal) in poor condition. I am having the liner replaced and am working on replacing all of the plumbing and pump myself. Currently, we have a cartridge filter (Jacuzzi Triclops), chlorine feeder (Hayward C500CF) and heater (Raypak RP2100). I'm replacing the dead Sta-Rite pump with an IntelliFlo 4x160 and eventually hope to replace the cartridge filter with a DE filter and install a solar heater.

    The plumbing was all 1.5" spa-flex and had more joints and fittings than I would think are necessary. My current plan is to use 2" through the pump, filter, and heater. This means each 1.5" intake pipe (there are three) will be upsized and connected into the 2". And the 2" return side will split into two 1.5" reducers for the two return runs. Does that sound right?

    Next question - my local Lowes and HD only seem to have 2" fittings in schedule 40 DWV - can this be used for my pool plumbing?

    Any thoughts, suggestions, critiques are appreciated.

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Your plumbing plan sounds good.

    Schedule 40 is pressure rated and DWV is non-pressure. I haven't seen anything labeled both ways. You can use schedule 40 for DWV applications, but it would be a waste. If you can find something that is labeled schedule 40 then it is fine.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  3. Back To Top    #3
    Upon further research, I learned that DWV sched 40 can be either pressure rated or not pressure rated. Generally the cell-core DWV is generally not pressure rated and solid-core DWV generally is pressure rated. I was able to get some non-DWV fittings from a plumbing supply store in town.

    I plumbed everything together and it's all functional but I am having a fairly significant problem with air getting in the system. If I have the pump on the two lower speeds, I will eventually (after 6-8hrs) get enough air in the system that it loses prime. The two higher speeds seem to get far less air in the system. If I leave it off overnight, I get enough air to lose prime as well. If I shut off the three intakes (I installed ball valves immediately after they enter the equipment room) overnight, prime is not lost and it appears air does not enter the system. Any way to further diagnose the source of the air? Intakes are 2 skimmers and 1 main drain (floor).

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    frankthailand's Avatar
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    Well it sounds like one of your intakes is leaking so if they are all plumbed seperately to the pump room just leave one intake on at a time, run the pump for awhile, it won't hurt anything and see if you still get air in the pump strainer, and then you will find the intake which is causing you the grief.

    After that you will have to check the pipework on that line.

    Cheers happy swims
    Frank
    Hello all from the land of smiles. Thailand. 5mx9mx1.5 63000L 16300 gall, pebbletex,
    pentair 1hp whisperflow, tagelus TA60 SF, swg monarch esc24 {a bit small for the tropics} 3 returns, 1 skimmer, 2 astral 100watt lights. Planned and built by me
    an AUSSIE expat living thailand for 18 years.

  5. Back To Top    #5
    So, I've tested each line and I get air in the strainer no matter what line I have open. That would seem to indicate that either all 3 intake lines have leaks or I have a leak in my plumbing somewhere after the shut off valves. I don't have any water leaking out of the plumbing when the pump is off so it must be a small leak or something that leaks only under suction (bad ball valve?)... so, what's the best way to locate that leak?

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    Try having someone cycle the pump (turn on, turn off, etc) and see if you see water squirting out of anywhere when the pump is turned off. It wont run out constantly after the pump is turned off, it will just squirt for a bit until the pressure is relieved then stop leaking.

    Could be a bunch of things....pipe related, pump side drain plug leaking, pump top gasket leaking, or even a ball valve (did you use a Jandy type 3-way valve? or just a regular ball valve from HD?) With 3 leaking intakes, probably most likely something in/around the pump, unless you just had 3 leaking connections which means you have really bad luck
    22K IG vinyl, .5HP Northstar pump, S244T filter, AutoPilot Digital w/SC-48 cell

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    You can spray shaving cream on the joints and valves while the pump is running. Anywhere that leaks will suck in the shaving foam.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  8. Back To Top    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by chrisexv6
    Could be a bunch of things....pipe related, pump side drain plug leaking, pump top gasket leaking, or even a ball valve (did you use a Jandy type 3-way valve? or just a regular ball valve from HD?) With 3 leaking intakes, probably most likely something in/around the pump, unless you just had 3 leaking connections which means you have really bad luck
    I'm able to turn the pump on/off while watching the plumbing and can't see any water coming out anywhere. I used regular sched-40 1.5" full-flow ball valves on each of my intakes. The pump is new so the drain plug and pump top gasket shouldn't be leaking (I've removed and re-seated both of these and they seem OK). Right now I'm leaning toward a leak in the plumbing somewhere.

    Quote Originally Posted by JasonLion
    You can spray shaving cream on the joints and valves while the pump is running. Anywhere that leaks will suck in the shaving foam.
    Thanks for the tip - I'll give that a try.

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