New Layer of PebbleSheen on top of old PebbleSheen OK?

Mar 20, 2013
4
All of the tile in our pool is going to be torn out and replaced because of a defective waterproofing base layer. The rest of the pool that is not tile is PebbleSheen. The PebbleSheen has some rust spots in the material and the builder has agreed to redo all the PebbleSheen as the pool is new and patching the PebbleSheen along the tile where it was chipped out, as well as patching the rust spots, will be noticeable.

That said, the Pool Builder's plan is to chip out the existing PebbleSheen that borders the tile as well as around all the drains, returns, etc., but leave the other expanses of PebbleSheen untouched. Then after the tile redo is complete they are going to re-PebbleSheen the entire pool. The builder assures me that the new PebbleSheen will bond to the old PebbleSheen and that the thicker double layer that exists won't be noticeable in relation to the new single layer where it was chipped out.

Questions:
1) Will a new layer of PebbleSheen bond properly to an existing layer of PebbleSheen?

2) For a bump to not be noticeable in the PebbleSheen when it transitions from the chipped out layer to the pre-existing layer, the new layer of PebbleSheen on the pre-existing layer would have to be really thin. Of course if it bonds perfectly this is not an issue, but would love some thoughts on this.

3) If the quick answer to the above 2 questions is that this is asking for trouble, what is the proper prep work to add a new layer of PebbleSheen on a pool that currently has PebbleSheen?

Thanks!!!
 
1) If the surface is prepared correctly it can bond just fine.
2) They spread the transition out over several inches and it becomes very difficult to notice. They don't make it thin anywhere, instead they make it thicker right at the transition (on the chipped out side).
 
Can you elaborate on "prepared correctly"?

JasonLion said:
1) If the surface is prepared correctly it can bond just fine.
2) They spread the transition out over several inches and it becomes very difficult to notice. They don't make it thin anywhere, instead they make it thicker right at the transition (on the chipped out side).
 
The surface needs to be very clean and "roughed up" a little. This can be done in a couple of ways, perhaps with something like sand blasting, or chemically with something like an acid wash, or with a pressure washer. Then a bond coat is applied, a special coating that looks a bit like paint, which is designed to improve adherence of the plaster. All of this can happen quite quickly, typically right before new plaster is applied.
 
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