pool remains green

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H

heidijanthony

0
Apr 2, 2013
10
Ok I am trying to use your tips to change my swamp water back into something swimmable.. yesterday morning we were completely swamp green with almost fuzzy looking algae. Vaccumed what we could up, tested levels and added 6 gallons 8.255 bleach. have had pump running for 30 hours. Water is a cloudy light green now.. we can see almost to the bottom so have come a long way.. what do I do now to finish the job. Our chlorine levels are now through the roof...our alkalinity is a bit high but ph and cya are acceptable.


FC 5+ BR 10+ TC 5+ (THATS AS HIGH AS WE CAN TEST FOR THESE) PH 7.5 CYA 60 (WE LIVE IN SOUTH TEXAS AND THEY SAY UP TO 100 IS ACCEPTABLE HERE DUE TO COPIOUS SUNSHINE AND HEAT) AK 170
 
The shock process can take several days to a few weeks to complete. Ignore the other tests, only FC matters for now until you have completed the shock process. Have you read how to perform the shock process in Pool School?
 
yes following the shock process except have brushed it more than once (managed to lose vaccumm bag in the pool and was trying to find it with brush.. i did ).. fc level overnight raised not lowered..am going to conitnue checking it every few hours.
 
The shock process can take several days to a few weeks to complete
Click to expand...
read "How to Shock Your Pool" up in Pool School.

If your FC test results rose overnight (which they cannot) you need a better, more accurate way to test.

100 CYA is too high for a manually chlorinated pool regardless of where you live.

50-60 for manual chlorination

60-80 for an SWG
 
One thing I notice right away is that it appears you are not using the FAS-DPD test for your FC levels. You are not going to be able to measure FC levels over 5 with the test you have. It's imperative that you have the proper test for the shock process.
http://tftestkits.net/FAS-DPD-Chlorine- ... t-p47.html
With a CYA of 60, your shock level is a minimum of 18. So you are not through the roof. In fact, you don't even know where you are at, or if you are high enough, without the proper kit.

I am concerned that your test kit may not be accurately reporting CYA.

Next, BR does not matter. You don't have a BR pool.

"They" are wrong. CYA of 100 would be too high for your pool. It can make the shock process a little more difficult as well.
 
is it possible for cya to decrease quite a lot with addition of so much bleach and additional water.. our cya was 80 is now down to 60. i had only mentioned that the ppol people said up to 100 was ok.. what test kit can i get that will measure fc to higher levels.. we bought the most expensive kit there was. And we are seeing improvement I am just not patient apparently. What was fuzzy very green algae is not whitish gray and what was water we couldbarely see a foot into is now easily able to see 3ft into
as for raise overnight.. that was post addition of 6 gallons 8.25% bleach.. we did not retest right away becaue we figured it needed to circulate to get a good measurement. you are correct i don't know the actual fc level.. i do know the test turns the color of concentrated cherry koolaid.. which is very pretty but not on the scale i have to measure
 
Basically, nothing will lower CYA other than draining water and refilling. The CYA test is not 100% precise, so you'll see some fluctuation. If you are using strips, they are unreliable.

Unless you have a COMMERCIAL pool supply near you, you aren't going to find that test locally. Leslies will look at you like you are green and have antennae on your head. I'm lucky that I have a commercial supply next to me if I need something like that in a rush, but I try to buy from tftestkits.net as much as possible.

The pool people, as in pool stores, are typically unreliable resources for pool information. Around me they are all very young and have never run a pool before. They just want to sell you more trichlor tabs, which add CYA.
 
not using strips.. using the one where you add 7ml pool water then 7 ml reactant and then put in cylinder until drop disappears. we didn't remove any water as water was already very low.. did add approximately 20% of pool volume in clean water.. which does explain lowered cya i think? got our kit from leslies. we do have another pool company in town.. i will check with them.. yes the guys at leslies are quite unintelligent... which is why I am asking ya'll questions.
 

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OK, good on not using strips. Yes, adding new water will lower the CYA since you reduced the concentration.

Sounds like you have the Taylor K-2005. If so, the only thing you really need to add is that FAS-DPD test kit.
 
it is a taylor kit.. dunno which one as its labeled for leslies pool supply only.. i will loook into the chlorine test this afternoon.. gotta run back to town for more bleach i am sure..

i think i just need to stop being impatient..

i flocked once a couple years ago for a mild algae issue and pool was clear within 12 hours o i think i have unrealistic expectations now...
 
1. Leslies labels the K2005 as "Total Poolcare DPD Test Kit", and has 18-576 at the bottom right - or at least used to.

2. YES! We call it POP. Pool Owner Patience. :)

3. Once you get the algae cleared and your water balanced, you'll find this method much easier and effective for maintaining your pool. To me, it being cheaper is the secondary benefit. Primary is my water is always right and I'm extremely proud of how good my water is. I love new people to see my pool!
 
RobbieH said:
jblizzle said:
You will not find the FAS-DPD test locally ... you can get it here:
http://tftestkits.net/FAS-DPD-Chlorine- ... t-p47.html
Click to expand...

It is possible, just depends on where you live. I can get one about a mile from my house.
Click to expand...

What store? This seems to be so rare, that it seems best to say to just recommend ordering it instead of sending people all around town with the small chance that they may find it. Plus then you are sending them into the wolf's den to ask about a test that 99% of the pool store employees have never heard of and will tell them that they do not need it ... just seems to add more confusion to newer members in my opinion.
 
To be clear, I said for her to order it and posted the same link you did. I also mentioned it is very rare to find them in stores unless you have a commercial supply in your area.

There are several commercial supplies around me as I live in a very blue collar and industrial town. I have a Valspar factory, Kraft factory, Sherwin Williams factory, US Foods, Peterbuilt factory, the list is long... all within about a 3 mile radius. The one in particular I go to is Leslie's Commercial Service Center. It is not a storefront, they do not have float toys or anything like that in their lobby. Just some huge containers of chems and a counter where folks can look up stuff for you and go pick it out and load it up for you. Truly only a commercial supply. I like it because there's nobody there to test your water or to try to talk you into any junk.
http://goo.gl/maps/vfxsv

Pool Plaza is just to the north of me, and has the K2006 and the individual FAS-DPD.
http://www.poolplaza.com/P-K-2006C.html
The 870 and 871 isn't on their website, but they had it last time I called. I didn't go in because the Leslie's Commercial is a lot closer, only 2 miles from my home.

With all that said, I have no problem showing a picture of all my reagents. 99% of them are from Dave. I have one container of Taylor 870 because I ran out and needed it quickly.
 

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