I screwed up adding bleach

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Kjoyce2240

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Mar 4, 2013
11
I recently switched to the BBB method. This was my first time to use gallon bleach.

I have the Taylor2006 kit and have been testing the water every day. I haven't had to add chlorine to the water for weeks because I have a solar blanket on the pool and everything has stayed pretty constant.

Over the weekend we had a crawfish boil at the house and so I took off the cover and left it off for two days. When I checked the fc it said 0. It was about 8 before the boil. I assumed it was uncovered and lost chlorine quickly. I used the pool caculator to get the chlorine back to 6 because my cya is 50. So it said to add 172 oz 8% bleach. I bought the bleach at SAMs. So I just added a jug. Well I checked my chlorine the next day and it was so high I quit counting the drops at 22 which would mean fc is 44 and it still had not turned clear.

I imagine I won't need to add chlorine for a long time now. I realize I added way to much bleach but I can't understand why the caculator told me to add that much. How do I know how much to add? Am I using the caculator wrong? Has anyone ever done that? Will that much chlorine hurt anything?
 
You don't say what kind of pool you have, so it's hard to predict what additions will harm your pool. Be sure you post if you have a vinyl, fiberglass, or plaster pool in the future, or add it to your signature line like I have below.

An FC of 11 with CYA of 50 is not going to hurt anything. And you'll be surprised how fast it comes down if you leave the cover off.
 
When intentionally running high CL levels, I use 5ml (instead of 10ml) to get 1ppm per drop.

That's easier (and saves on reagent) when I'm doing a major shock.

Robert
 
rmeden said:
When intentionally running high CL levels, I use 5ml (instead of 10ml) to get 1ppm per drop.

That's easier (and saves on reagent) when I'm doing a major shock.

Robert
Click to expand...
That's OK to do that but only up to a point. You lose the precision of .5ppm (or even .2ppm) which you need when doing the OCLT or testing for cc's......both essential items in completing the shock process.

The FAS/DPD test is the most expensive test in the kits.....it's sorta' the prime reason to have a precise kit to begin with.

In the big scheme of things, the money you save on reagent won't be worth giving up that precision when you really need it.
 
duraleigh said:
rmeden said:
When intentionally running high CL levels, I use 5ml (instead of 10ml) to get 1ppm per drop.

That's easier (and saves on reagent) when I'm doing a major shock.

Robert
Click to expand...
That's OK to do that but only up to a point. You lose the precision of .5ppm (or even .2ppm) which you need when doing the OCLT or testing for cc's......both essential items in completing the shock process.

The FAS/DPD test is the most expensive test in the kits.....it's sorta' the prime reason to have a precise kit to begin with.

In the big scheme of things, the money you save on reagent won't be worth giving up that precision when you really need it.
Click to expand...

This man speaketh the truth. I "got by" the last two years with a basic kit and I would frequently long for the precision of the TFP. I guess it's all in what you value, but it's far easier to be precise and efficient shocking your pool with the better test kit. Ordered mine last weekend.
 
Kjoyce2240 said:
I feel like I'm in Chemistry class with all these different test. I hope it gets easier it gets so confusing.
Click to expand...
I honestly felt the same when I started but, in a couple of weeks or so, this will really become second nature and you will be in charge of your own pool instead of relying on others.
 
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