SWG Cell comparison

[Dave1991]

I have a Goldline T-Cell-15 that I am going to have to replace. I was considering going with a T-Cell-9, since by my calculations, my pool/spa is below 25,000 gallons, and thought I would save some money.

Is this shortsighted thinking? Am I better off paying a little more now and staying with a 15? What are the potential downfalls with going with the smaller cell? Or should the 9 work just fine for me?

Thank you!

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

We generally recommend sizing the cell at 1.5-3 times your pool size. Reason being a belief that for the small added cost it will last longer and not need to run as long each day.

The ratings are based on running 24/7 ... so unless you want to be running your pump close to 24/7 and spending a lot of money on electricity in order to maintain enough FC, I would suggest sticking with the T-15 and thus shorter pump run times.

 

[Dave1991]

Perfect...that answers that.

What are your thoughts (if any) on the off brand CompuPool T-15 cell instead of the name brand one from Hayward?

 

[jblizzle]

IIRC, there have been mixed reports ... works fine for some ... either does not work or fails early for others. I would have to search the forums to be sure.
Its use also supposedly invalidates your controller warranty if you still have one.

EDIT: One discussion:
need-advice-on-replacement-for-swg-hayward-t-cell-15-t50326.html?hilit=compupool%2015

 

[Dave1991]

Since my entire system is more than 3 years old, I would think it is no longer under warranty. So I will need to weigh the risk factor of the CompuPool cell (with a warranty that comes with that) against the possible inconvenience of it not working well.

Thank you for your insight and prompt response...this has been a great help. I too will check the other forums here to see if this has been covered.

 

[RobbieH]

My CompuPool has been great. YMMV.

 

[Dave1991]

I just installed a new Hayward T-15 cell, restarted the system, and my Aqua Rite control panel still has a solid light for the Check Cell. Now what???

 

[JasonLion]

That could be a loose cable connection between the cell and the control box. If the water is very cold, 50 degrees or colder, it could give that error.

 

[Dave1991]

Water temp is +/- 70 degrees. Connections seem solid. After startup, the Power and Generating lights are lit...but after a few minutes of it running, the Generating light goes off, and the Check salt and Check cell lights come on (solid).

 

[JasonLion]

Newer models need the cell size setup correctly on the diagnostic page. You didn't change the cell type so it seems unlikely that is an issue, but it might have forgotten the cell type, which could cause that error.

Another possibility, also unlikely, if the salt level is very low you could get that error message.

 

[Dave1991]

Yes, confirmed that the cell type (t-15) is correct on the diagnostic display.

Salt level is very low, but I thought that was due to the bad cell (it dropped rather drastically just before the check cell light came on). I could add a few bags of salt...but as you say, it seems unlikely that that would cause the check cell light to remain lit.

If you have any other suggestions, I will certainly try them. If not, I may have to wait till Monday and contact Hayward directly.

 

[JasonLion]

There is a distinction between the SWG reporting the salt level as low and what the salt level actually is. It is common for an old cell to report the salt level as low, when the real salt level is fine, or even too high. However, if the salt level actually is low even a brand new cell will have problems. I suggest testing the salt level with something other than the SWG, and if it really is low you should raise it.

 

[Dave1991]

Post Mortem, lessons learned...

JasonLion, you were correct, the low salt level caused the new cell to have problems as well, which is why the check cell light remained illuminated.

No need for me to contact the manufacturer. Once I raised the salinity, and reset the SWG, the new cell is now generating chlorine as designed. (Level currently at 2900)

So for anyone who sees the Check Cell light remaining on after changing the cell, it might be as simple as raising your salinity and resetting the unit for that light to go away.

Thank you once again for your assistance...it looks like my pool is back up and running well once again.