Replacing pop-up pool cleaner system

[PeterAZ]

Some years ago I got tired of replacing the gears in the Shasta Actuator system after every sand storm (or haboob) and bought a automatic pool cleaner. This works just fine; however, this winter the top cover (dome)for the actuator system cracked during one of our freezes. I checked with Shasta parts and they want $129 to replace just the plastic dome (top) of the actuator system. I would prefer to by pass the whole system. Has anyone tried this - any tips?

Thanks in advance Peter

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

It greatly depends on your plumbing setup. Add some pictures of your equipment and plumbing.

My previous house had a 3-way valve that would select either the in-floor system or regular wall returns. So, it would have been easy to just stop using the floor system.

 

[PeterAZ]

good question from jblizzle

I have attached a photo (I hope) - I do not have a bypass valve - the return water enters at the top and goes into the pool via the 5 smaller pipes that go into the ground and connect to the 8 pop-ups in my pool. Sure wish I had a by-pass valve! Peter[attachment=0:2tokbwi6]Shasta actuator.JPG[/attachment:2tokbwi6]

 

[jblizzle]

It sounds like you stopped replacing the gears ... so, does all the water still return to the pool through all the floor pop-ups, but just does not rotate to different zones?

If the only plumbing that returns water to the pool is through the floor, then I do not think you have a choice but to replace the dome. OR, you would have to cut the dome out and use PVC fittings to connect all the 5 pipes to the main pipe, but that would eliminate the possibility of using the system correctly.

I am not sure why you were having such a problem with the gears. No dirt should be getting into the dome if your filter was working properly ... maybe that is the underlying problem?

 

[PeterAZ]

I am not sure why the gears were not working properly - combine that with needing to replace most of the pop-ups, I just felt it wasn't worth the money. I had previous experience with vacuums like Heyward - and that's working very well for me.

the water does return thru the floor pop-ups and you are right they do not rotate- it seems that most of the return is thru 2 or maybe 3 of the pop-ups. It appears that I may have to construct my own PVC bypass-- I was just hoping someone had come up with a simple work-around. Thanks for input. I wonder what happens to the old parts when people remodel their pools- I could use a decent dome!

 

[keastman]

If the water enters that cover through the single top pipe, you could fabricate a manifold out of pvc pipe that has a "T" for each of the pipes leaving your distributor. Then connect each of those pipes (looks like you have 4) to the T's. It would take some geometrical planning to make it fit an perhaps look like an octopus but It may work.

One other thing to keep in mind is that the water will only flow out of your functional returns in the bottom. It will sit in the pipes of the non functional ones and be a wonderful place for algae to hide. I eliminated the system I had because all the heads were breaking and at $50 a piece to replace. (22 in all). Could not justify it since the system did little to keep the pool clean, even when functioning properly. I pulled all the heads so water would flow freely and not stagnate. ( I did have a mustard algae problem in the stagnate ones) I need to fabricate some type of covers for them with some small holes in them for water flow. I have some fear the open returns kids could get their hands stuck in them. Though I have no small kids that use the pool. My plan is to use PVC end caps that have been turned down to fit the opening and drill some holes in them to allow water out.

 

[CB]

I know nothing about in floor cleaner systems,but couldn't you just take the guts out? To my very limited way of thinking that would allow water to flow out all your heads at once,probably at a very,very low flow.That way if you do decide at a later date that you do want to use your system again you just put new guts in.I may have the wrong idea,but thought i'd mention it anyway.

 

[jblizzle]

But the problem is the dome is cracked and expensive to replace apparently.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short

 

[CB]

I saw that the dome was cracked,I was just thinking that if he replaced the dome and took the guts out.If you made an octopus with PVC fittings,wouldn't you still have problems with it freezing unless you buried it or covered it? Just thinking out loud.

 

[PeterAZ]

Thanks for Feedback, Keastman, Rob and Jason - yes, issue is cracked dome - the guts (gears, etc) have been out for some 6 years - but now with a crack in the dome I am afraid we could have a blow out. - you are right there could still be a freezing issue with an "Octopus" type connection- if I go that route I will have to build in a slope in my connectors so that water drains better when the pump is off. The good news is that a crack in standard PVC is a lot less expensive to fix than a new dome. It is also possible that the dome cracked due to age versus freezing-- in fact that is actually more likely since the part that cracked (there are two pipe clamps on top of the crack in my photo) is not a place where water could sit .

To Keastman's observation about algae- I have not run water through all the 8 "pop ups" for about 6 years - so water must be sitting in those pipes- I have been pretty much algae free that entire time -- so if I manufacture an "octopus" that returns the water thru just two of my return pipes there should not be a change in algae (I HOPE!).

Thanks again for all the ideas. Peter