Has anyone experienced this: Ph will not go down lower than 8.0 TA is at 100. 2500gal indoor spa. I have replaced the heating element 3 times in the last 3months on the RAypac 11kw. By the looks of the debris in the water the element is actually disintegrating. I suspect that in my efforts to bring down the PH I have inadvertently damaged the heating element. Thoughts?
Raypac 11kw burning up heating elements
- Thread starter madmacman
- Start date
With the pH so high, I would suspect that the element is getting scaled and overheating. The scale forms an insulating layer over the element and causes it to burn up. If there is no plaster or grout, then you want to keep the CSI negative. If there is plaster or grout, then you want to keep the CSI neutral.
What is your calcium level?
What is your calcium level?
Some other possibilities:
1) Very high chlorine or bromine levels. Very high chlorine or bromine levels can bleach out DPD chlorine/bromine tests and can make the pH read falsely high. To check for very high chlorine or bromine levels, use OTO and/or FAS-DPD to test chlorine/bromine.
2) A chlorine or bromine feeder near the heater that is creating excessive chlorine/bromine levels in the heater, especially when the system if left off for any length of time.
1) Very high chlorine or bromine levels. Very high chlorine or bromine levels can bleach out DPD chlorine/bromine tests and can make the pH read falsely high. To check for very high chlorine or bromine levels, use OTO and/or FAS-DPD to test chlorine/bromine.
2) A chlorine or bromine feeder near the heater that is creating excessive chlorine/bromine levels in the heater, especially when the system if left off for any length of time.
I should probably mention that I am using a chlorine generator. The generator comes on twice in a 24 hour period for 2 hours at a time. I just refilled the spa and had a ph test done and the test was at 8+ while the chlorine (from the tap) was at a 3. I'm starting to suspect my reagent.
If you suspect that your reagent is bad, then it is best to get a fresh reagent. In your case, an acid demand test would probably be helpful. A 2 hour run time for only 2500 gallons seems high. What generator do you have?
Is it 2 hours at 100 %?
Is the generator before or after the heater?
Another possibility is that the element might be turning on when the heater is not full of water or is not getting enough water flow. These conditions are most likely when the heater is more than about 3 feet above or below the water level.
Is it 2 hours at 100 %?
Is the generator before or after the heater?
Another possibility is that the element might be turning on when the heater is not full of water or is not getting enough water flow. These conditions are most likely when the heater is more than about 3 feet above or below the water level.
depending on what generator you have, it should have a flow switch, which might be getting stuck. Which would allow it to turn on with no flow, and saturate the water with a high chlorine content, and if there is not a backflow preventer before the cell, it could be saturating the heater.