first test numbers with tft 100

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roth79

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Jul 19, 2009
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Here is my first number, its about 13000 gal in florida and I have not done anything to it for 3 weeks as I was replacing pump and pad. I am now playing with the pump as its a VS intelliflo, its a guinite in ground, no spa no water features

my numbers today, first time using so I was trying to be very careful.

FC was 45 drops so I think that's 2.25?
No cc test as it stayed clear.

TA was 90

CH was 150

and CYA was 90

then I used the taylor k1000 in the tft kit and the Chlorine went orange never made it to yellow and the PH was 7.2.

Any advise please, now to I go to the chart and see what to add if anything.

Thanks,

Roth
 
Hey Dave its Brian in Seminole! Thanks for the kit and flowvis, just plumbed it in today, looks pretty good. The pool up until 3 weeks ago was chlorine pucks in a feeder, but I took that out of the plumbing and Im looking at SWG now and want to get the balance right first.Probably do the Pentair I 40 real soon.
 
Hi, Brian. I knew who you were. I also installed my FlowVis yesterday but have some testing to do before I post more info on it.

Since you are going to an SWG, then I would suggest you drain off about 10-15% of your pool to get your CYA down to around 70-80ppm, then adjust the SWG so you are able to maintain your FC around 4-6ppm.

Until your SWG is operational, I would still put the CYA @ 80ppm but manually chlorinate (with liquid....no more pucks) and keep the FC range around 6-9ppm.

You don't report but my assumption is your water is pretty darn clear, right?
 
Now Im confused Dave, sorry but pretty new at this, why drain 10-15% to get the cya down from my 90 and then manual liquid chlorine back to 80ppm? Went to pinch pebby today just wanted to have them do a test then compare to my new kit, they show calcium hardness at 165 and they wanted me to add 8 lbs of calcium hardness increaser? Also what about my chlorine test going to orange instead of yellow that I posted above, di I do something wrong?
 
If you have a plaster pool, adding calcium is important. If you have a fibreglass pool then calcium is worth adding, but not time critical. If you have a vinyl liner pool then there is no reason to add calcium.

When FC is around 22, it is normal for the OTO chlorine test (drops turn the sample various shades of yellow which are compared to a color standard) to turn orange.

CYA at 90 is too high. We don't recommend any CYA level above 80.
 
Jason thanks I do have a plaster pool and am in florida, so you suggest to drain some water and refill before I do anything else with the numbers I posted?
I assume by your post then CYA is calcium and mine is too high?

Thanks
 
CYA is cyanuric acid, which protects the chlorine from sunlight and also increases the level of chlorine you need to maintain.

CH is calcium, which protects the plaster (which is mostly calcium) from dissolving into the pool.

Your CYA level is too high, and CH level too low.

Your best bet is to replace about 10% of your water (typically 3" to 6" of water, depending on how deep your pool is), and then add some calcium increaser.
 
Brian,

Check out the abbreviations in Pool School. There's also lot's of other good articles that will make getting started much easier.

Are you still confused on the CYA issue.....I didn't word it very well.
 
Thanks Jason Ill do it next weekend and test again. THANKS
Dave you also so I will read and reread, and maybe retest before I dump a bunch of water, as it was my first test I have done.
 

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Im going to drain some water in the morning and I have a question, I have a soft water salt system at the house that I can bypass to the hose, I am currently trying to get my water balanced and then switch to SWG. My question is should I use the conditioned so called soft water for the refill or by pass it and use regular city water for the refill in the morning.

I am also going to take apart my de filter and clean it real good and then attempt to balance the pool.

Thanks,

Roth
 
My question is should I use the conditioned so called soft water
Click to expand...
No, your CH is too low already. As Jason said, VERY unlikely your city refill will have over 200 CH (Why don't you test it before you put it in) so the softened water will only worsen your already too low CH.
 
I just tested again and trying to master the kit, takes some practice but what I have this morning is

CC bright orange so reading at school that's 15-30
PH 7.2
TC was 31 drops 155?
TA 60
CH 160
CYA 100 (tested 3 times give or take)

So Im going to drain about 6 inches now and retest.
I need to get my SWG real soon but I really want to balance it first.

After I drain I will retest, thanks guys
 
roth79 said:
I just tested again and trying to master the kit, takes some practice but what I have this morning is

CC bright orange so reading at school that's 15-30
PH 7.2
TC was 31 drops 155?
TA 60
CH 160
CYA 100 (tested 3 times give or take)

So Im going to drain about 6 inches now and retest.
I need to get my SWG real soon but I really want to balance it first.

After I drain I will retest, thanks guys
Click to expand...
The color match chlorine test doesn't need to be done if you're doing the FAS-DPD (Powder) test for Chlorine. If you're using 155 drops to get it to go clear, I suggest you switch to a 10ml sample, then each drop =.5. You'll use less of the testing reagent, and at the levels you're describing, .5 is close enough resolution.

If FC is 31, your pH test is invalid, so you may as well skip it, too.

If you're draining and replacing water to get CYA down, you may as well drain enough in one shot to do it all. If you overshoot, it's easy enough to add more. If you underdrain, you'll just have to do it again.

Is the water clear? Are you attempting the shock process with CYA that high? Have you read Pool School?
 
yes I read pool school and am learning as Im new to this as my chemicals show and the pool is very clear. I am filling it now as I drained about a foot or so. I haven't added any liquid shock in weeks so I am starting from scratch. I will repost my results after the new water mixes a little in the pool. I didn't use 155 drops I used 31 and multiply by .05 is how I got 155, am I screwing up Richard?
 
I didn't use 155 drops I used 31 and multiply by .05 is how I got 155, am I screwing up Richard?
Click to expand...
Multiply your drops by .5

That means if it took 31 drops to clear the solution, your FC is 15.5

Use the same .5 multiplier for your CC's test

You're making good progress and this will be child's play after a bit more practice. :lol:
 
I drained about a foot and after a few hours of circulation I retested,

PH 7.2
FC 10.5
CC 1
TA 80
CH 210
CYA 70

CH I tested twice as it went up since this morning and refill?
So off to read to see what is next.
 
If you did not add any, it is odd that your CH went up. You could test your fill water, but city water is unlikely to have high CH. You may want to confirm again tomorrow. How old is the plaster?

How does your water look? Normally a CC of >0.5 is reason to shock, but in your case it may be from the city water.

Other than that your test numbers look good. Your FC of 10.5 is a little high when running a swg...poolcalculator.com gives me 3 ppm target for your 70 ppm cya.
 
Thanks Linen, I don't have the swg in yet, still shopping and I did add water and refilled. Maybe it is not circulated yet so Im running the pump tonight and will recheck in the am. The CC was o before the refill. Ill retest in am. Thanks L.
 

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