We use a liquid chlorine system that the is filled with 11 percent chlorine, we keep the pool at .5 PPM, not used that much and has UV treatment system. Does anyone know how much salt solids are added to the pool for each gallon of chlorine that we add?
Liquid Chlorine - Salt
- Thread starter fixento
- Start date
Welcome to tfp, fixento 
The "Effects of Adding Chemicals" section of the Pool Calculator should give you the answer.
1 gallon of 11% chlorine will add ~2.6 ppm of salt into your 70K pool (that is a huge pool).
By the way, you are not holding your FC level high enough to ensure prevention of algae. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_water_chemistry and: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock
The "Effects of Adding Chemicals" section of the Pool Calculator should give you the answer.
1 gallon of 11% chlorine will add ~2.6 ppm of salt into your 70K pool (that is a huge pool).
By the way, you are not holding your FC level high enough to ensure prevention of algae. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_water_chemistry and: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock
I appreciated your response and your advice since this is the first pool I ever managed. I would have it serviced but there are no large in ground pool service companies available where we are located. I test the water myself since retail store cute girls test results varied drastically on the same sample of water. I've never had a problem with algae thus far with the UV system but I'll keep an eye out for it. Currently the pool is winterized with an insulation and a safety cover and we keep it heated during the winter at 55 degrees.
Yes, it's big, about 1200 sq. feet surface but not a fun pool since only 15 percent of the pool is shallow enough to stand and that rapidly drops off to 9 feet. The reason for the depth as well as the choice of tile color for the latitude was to make the water appear deep blue and it does that. It's located on an estate in PA my wife and I manage. No one really uses the pool except infrequently my family does.
Yes, it's big, about 1200 sq. feet surface but not a fun pool since only 15 percent of the pool is shallow enough to stand and that rapidly drops off to 9 feet. The reason for the depth as well as the choice of tile color for the latitude was to make the water appear deep blue and it does that. It's located on an estate in PA my wife and I manage. No one really uses the pool except infrequently my family does.
Sorry about my question, I should have known it was outdoors from your previous post 
Another question...what prompted your salt question? Typically it is perfectly fine to have salt in a pool. Pools such as mine are purposefully at ~ 3000 ppm because I use a Saltwater Chlorine Generator (swg).
A comment about UV...I would stop using it. Unless you have high bather load, UV systems really do not help much for outdoor pools, and you have to use chlorine anyway which does a good job on it's own. With that said, with your FC (or is it TC?...how did you test for chlorine?) so very low, the UV might be helping here slightly (not sure about this), but even so, your pool is a prime candidate for an algae outbreak (also depends on your cya level).
If you would like to investigate this more, you could post the latest test number you have for cya, and we can discuss it
Another question...what prompted your salt question? Typically it is perfectly fine to have salt in a pool. Pools such as mine are purposefully at ~ 3000 ppm because I use a Saltwater Chlorine Generator (swg).
A comment about UV...I would stop using it. Unless you have high bather load, UV systems really do not help much for outdoor pools, and you have to use chlorine anyway which does a good job on it's own. With that said, with your FC (or is it TC?...how did you test for chlorine?) so very low, the UV might be helping here slightly (not sure about this), but even so, your pool is a prime candidate for an algae outbreak (also depends on your cya level).
If you would like to investigate this more, you could post the latest test number you have for cya, and we can discuss it
The value of UV varies greatly depending on how many people are swimming. Public pools with lots of swimmers benefit greatly from using UV. Residential pools with just you swimming don't get any advantages from using UV.
The question was a mater of curiosity since we use 130 to 150 gallons of chlorine a year. Pool treatment system was originally Ozone with sand filter [which was removed due to wear on copper pipes to the boiler located 150 feet from pool) that corroded the 3 inch copper plumbing in the pool's mechanical room. It was change to a salt system, however, after 20 years rust appeared on one of the SS rails in the water for the steps and a landscape architect convenience that owner salt was causing the corrosion. The system was designed by a "pool engineer". We maintain a low Chlorine PPM since we pump 122 gallons a minute through the UV enclosure that has two 135 watt bulbs. The idea for the UV was to minimize the chlorine and we never had a problem with algae. Normally we maintain the system at .5 PPM chlorine, however, when we added calcium this fall, the BEC System raised the chlorine level and the FCL & CL is 1.59 at present, PH 7.4, ALY 126, CH 240, CY .4 and the TDS is 624 which gives a Langelier index of -0.08
I assume "CY" is CYA. A reading of .4 does not compute. CYA is measured in ppm and only accurate in 10's (20ppm. 40ppm, etc)
Adequate CYA would cut WAY down on your FC consumption and thereby your addition of salt to the pool although that in itself is harmless enough.
Adequate CYA would cut WAY down on your FC consumption and thereby your addition of salt to the pool although that in itself is harmless enough.
Sorry, yes the CY is CYA and I made typo error .4 is in fact 4 ppm. We use a LaMotte Q color meter and their tablets. During the winter I normally don't worry about CYA since we have the pool has minimal light being doubled covered, water temp is at 55-58, air temp in single digits or teens and from experience the chlorine use is minimal.
I loved the salt pool water, it was great to swim in and unlike system today it didn't require a lot of maintenance to keep balanced. You make valid point, about the cyanuric acid level, we'll raise it when we open the pool for the summer.
According to NOAA the evaporation rate for the pool's surface area at our latitude we lose approximately 40,000 gallons year. City water is from a reservoir, it's soft but it has a PH 8.23 since they use chloramines so we use a lot of CO2 to bring it down.
The only mystery to me is that we have to add calcium to the pool to maintain a PPM level from 250 to 300 PPM. I wouldn't think that calcium evaporates with water nor the cartridge filters would remove it from the pool water. The advantage with auto fill on a pool is you don't have to worry about low water and air being sucked into the lines from the skimmers but the disadvantage is you don't know if you have a leak. We did a bucket water level check last spring and found nothing, but that was then.
I loved the salt pool water, it was great to swim in and unlike system today it didn't require a lot of maintenance to keep balanced. You make valid point, about the cyanuric acid level, we'll raise it when we open the pool for the summer.
According to NOAA the evaporation rate for the pool's surface area at our latitude we lose approximately 40,000 gallons year. City water is from a reservoir, it's soft but it has a PH 8.23 since they use chloramines so we use a lot of CO2 to bring it down.
The only mystery to me is that we have to add calcium to the pool to maintain a PPM level from 250 to 300 PPM. I wouldn't think that calcium evaporates with water nor the cartridge filters would remove it from the pool water. The advantage with auto fill on a pool is you don't have to worry about low water and air being sucked into the lines from the skimmers but the disadvantage is you don't know if you have a leak. We did a bucket water level check last spring and found nothing, but that was then.
Neither removes calcium. If you are having to add it, the fill water must be less than 250ppm.
Fixento, please read the post that follows. I remember reading about a problem with the CYA test on the ColorQ when I was reviewing test kits. I ended up buying the TF-100 and a speedstir. I also bought a SafeDip electronic pH and salt, and ORP meter. I thought this post might shed some light on your CYA readings. From what I have read the water must be in the 70-80 degree range for that test. This post has a lot of info about the innacuracy of the CYA test for that device. You don't want a false reading and then raising your CYA too high accidentally. You may want to get another analysis of your CYA at a higher temp and I would seek an alternate method as confirmation.
David Hurley
P.S. How do you like the ColorQ?
lamotte-colorq-water-tester-t932.html
David Hurley
P.S. How do you like the ColorQ?
lamotte-colorq-water-tester-t932.html
I like it since I'm not good with color tones. However, the test instructions must be followed exactly and replace the tablets annually. I haven't noticed any shifts in readings due to water temperatures nor is there any mention of them in the manual.
I don't trust Alpine Pool's testing results anymore. A couple of years ago we drained the pool for maintenance and after it was fill with city water [@90 PPM hardness] and 125 pounds of calcium added, they tried to convenience me the CA level was 800 PPM, after a short discussion the second test with a different tester resulted in 600 PPM and the third test with new testing solution revealed 400 PPM.
This taught me a lesson, don't believe any test results if it doesn't make sense, test again and before any chemicals are added, test again and compare.
I don't trust Alpine Pool's testing results anymore. A couple of years ago we drained the pool for maintenance and after it was fill with city water [@90 PPM hardness] and 125 pounds of calcium added, they tried to convenience me the CA level was 800 PPM, after a short discussion the second test with a different tester resulted in 600 PPM and the third test with new testing solution revealed 400 PPM.
This taught me a lesson, don't believe any test results if it doesn't make sense, test again and before any chemicals are added, test again and compare.
The generally accepted method of measuring CYA around here does not use colors.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxaqoW-_MCs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxaqoW-_MCs
For that matter, the ONLY test in the test kits we recommend that involves color matching is the pH. All other tests have you look for a color change ... pink to clear, red to green, etc.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
I'll order a T-100 kit when we ready to pull the cover off the pool this spring to check our LaMotte tester's readings against it and post the results under a different topic. It's possible to store the results of the tests in the BEC Sys controller and it will display Lonelier index using the water temp sensor but it's difficult to retrieve history unless I connect a computer up to it. I find it easier and more convenient to go on line for Lonelier calculations and record the test numbers on a spread sheet.
Thanks again for taking the time, interest and your suggestions.
Thanks again for taking the time, interest and your suggestions.