Algea in cold pool, why?

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amati5

Well-known member
Sep 13, 2011
233
So Cal
There is no FC because I assume the AquaRite stop working at certain degree (actually, to confirm, I SuperChlorined for 24hrs and still no FC). PH is very low, which is rare and I think because of the rain, too. Salt is also low because of the rain but that shouldn't matter since the Aquarite isn't making any Chlorine. I added Algaecide 60+ and generally it works really well but not this time. Also added Phoslow to make sure Phosphate is not too high. Pump runs about 5-6 hrs a day like last winter. What can be the cause? I didn't think algae can live/grow in cold water. Haven't got a chance to check the water with the store yet.

Oh, the water is clear, just some parts of the wall/steps.


Thx.
 
Algae can grow and live in cold water, it just takes longer for it to take hold. YOu still have to keep the FC up. The good news is the shock process is easier to follow through with in the winter because the sun doesn't eat the FC like it does in the summer.

If you have algae, that could also contribute to your SWG not keeping up with the FC demand. I know some SWGs don't make FC at low temps, mine does but I can't speak for yours. I do know if you have an algae problem it is not uncommon for the SWG to not be able to raise FC from zero.
 
I don't think the algae in my pool is enough to kill FC (if there was any FC) because the water is clear, just some yellows on some parts of the wall. I am just surprised because I never had algae in the winter even when FC was quite low. I forgot to mention that the salt level is low, 3000. But that is because of the high water level from the rain, so I can't really add more salt. I guess a trip to the pool store to test the water is in order.

thx
 
amati5 said:
I don't think the algae in my pool is enough to kill FC (if there was any FC) because the water is clear, just some yellows on some parts of the wall. I am just surprised because I never had algae in the winter even when FC was quite low. I forgot to mention that the salt level is low, 3000. But that is because of the high water level from the rain, so I can't really add more salt. I guess a trip to the pool store to test the water is in order.

thx
Click to expand...
You've been a member here for over a year and you still trust the pool store to do your testing for you? :shock:
 
It doesn't take much algae to kill your FC.
Do you know what your water temp is?
Is the swg telling you that it's not generating?

I suggest you get a good test kit and then you can run the overnight chlorine loss test (see sig).
 
Lol, I didn't know going to the store wasn't approved here. I've been going to the store once a year in the spring time to check mostly for CEA and Phosphate. Other than that, I just check the FC and PH myself as needed.

I didn't look at the temp of the water (displayed on the Aquarite) but it's cold, even for So Cal. The Aquarite still shows "Generating" as normal but I know it's not making any Chlorine, hopefully because of the water's low temp. Actually I'd never paid attention in the past if the "Generating" was on or off during the winter, when it wasn't making Chlorine. Is it supposed to be dark if it's not making Chlorine due to the temp? If this is the case, then I have to find out what's goind on with it.
 
Pool School may help you understand better what we teach. I would suggest starting with "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School.

You will find that testing for phosphates is a waste of time What is CEA........I assume CYA?
 
Oops! CYA.

Really? My reading for Phosphates had been always high at every Spring (was told due to the leaves and dirt from the surround trees) and I only treated once a year until last year when I occasionally added Phoslow to control it through out the year (instead of waiting until Spring). And after each yearly treatment, the FC has always got better.
 

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Search "phosphates" on the forum and you will find a LOT of threads. Phosphates are irrelevant in a properly maintained pool.

CYA. of course, is very relevant but also one of the tests pool stores are notorious for screwing up.
 
Yup, treating phosphates is a waste of money. Think of it like this ...

Phosphates are algae food (that is what the pool store will say). Chlorine kills algae. If you maintain adequate FC such that algae can not live ... who cares how much food there is.

I suggest reading through Pool School (to at least remind yourself). Getting yourself one of the recommended test kits. And then taking full control of your pool ... and likely saving yourself money while at it.
 
This is an opinion - not a fact - but I think true:

Phosphate reducers can SOMETIMES slow down algae growth to the point that traditional methods may get it under control.
BBB methods do not need this crutch to work.
 
Some say this isn't true of all SWGs, but when my SWG is working, I have bubbles at the returns. When it's off, no bubbles. Is your cell clear so you can see if there are bubbles around the grid? Mine makes TONS of bubbles around the grid when it's working. You might also take a sample of water right at the return and see if there is FC there while the SWG is operating...
 
I occarionally see bubbles at the return nozzles in the pool but I am not sure what you meant by "around the grid".

I'll check the FC again at the return but I have a feeling my SWG isn't working correctly. But then again, I did confirm with the manufacturer that it shouldn't work at lower water temp.

Edit: I just read the manual again and it says it stops generating when the water temp is 50 or lower and the "Generating" light should be flashing. It also says this feature can be overidden by swicthing over to "Super Generating".

1. The "Generating" light didn't flash
2. I turned on the "Super Generating" for 24 hrs and still no FC

This tells me my water isn't cold enough and the swg should be working but it's not. I have to check. Hopefully it's not 4 yrs, yet.
 
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