Liquidator installation thoughts and comments

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keithw said:
John,

I have found that it is actually beneficial to have the unit drain down when the pump is not running. That is when I perform my refills and it is very easy to do when the level is much lower.
Click to expand...

That may be true, but mine keeps gurgling and burping for several minutes, which is pretty annoying :x . The water that flows out is pretty highly chlorinated (I haven't hauled the TF-100 out to test it yet, but it is brown in an OTO test), and I don't like the idea of that sitting in the pool plumbing, particularly with the 1.5" check valve for the solar, the Jandy Diverter valve and my multiport being the nearest things to my Liquidator pressure line tap. I don't know if I'm being overly cautious or not.

I was thinking last night that a valve on the pressure side might be useful to let the level drop to the output float level for refilling.

I had a moment of panic yesterday evening when I checked on the pool. I had opened the Liquidator lid to check the chlorine layer, then went and did some other things. After closing the lid, I noticed a decent amount of water on the floor behind the tank. I started checking hoses and fittings pretty quickly before I realized that the inside of the tank and lid had heavy condensation on them, and it had just run down while the lid was open.
 
Hi, guys,

I'm still learning the LQ (my new abbreviation to save typing :lol: ) but, at first glance, I'm on the same page with John. It seems like the LQ would load quicker and more safely (no concentrated Cl) with the pump running.

Quicker because you are pulling more water thru the LQ than if the pump were off and safer because of John's concerns above.

If I am all wet on this, it will not be my first time. :lol: :lol:
 
I have had the same panic attack as John after opening the lid. :)

I think we are over complicating a simple process. The concept is not as accurate as a much more costly chemical feed system. $200 for the Liquidator vs. $1000 (and up) for a complete chem feed system. (I am guilty on all charges but it's fun!)

Question, when the pump stops which direction does the vaccum pull the water? (I.e. back to the pool or forward towards the pump/filter..)

I have a 2" spring check valve right before the pump and less then a foot from the injector for the Liquidator and about twice that from the pH Adjuster. I noticed that the check valve closes as soon as the pump stops so I am assuming the water is moving towards the pool. If this is correct, then I have about 50 plus feet of just PVC between the injector and the actual pool.
 
When the pump stops, water will move from the filter towards the pool on both the suction side and the return side. If the system is properly air tight and there isn't any air in the filter this will only happen a little bit. If there is air in the filter or an air leak a substantial amount of water can flow out of the system after the pump stops. A check valve will reduce the amount of water that can flow back to the pool on the suction side.
 
Well, I thought I had posted a couple of hours ago......

Anyway, the post was essentially what Jason just said. The water in the liquidator flows DOWN to the pool when you shut the pump off. Following the path of least resistance, it could be intake, output or both.

Then, once the water level in the LQ reaches the shutoff point, the float valves close and stops the process.

On a different note, I cannot understand the need for a check valve on the suction side. The pressure side check valve is obvious to stop the draining of the liquidator but I simply can't explain the need for the suction side check.

If you know the answer, please type s-l-o-w-l-y as I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer. :lol:
 
duraleigh said:
The suction side check valve prevents the LQ from overflowing with pool water when the LQ is below water level and the pump is off.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I can see that but what's to prevent the LQ from overflowing thru the pressure side in that circumstance?
Click to expand...

Pressure side float shuts off when the tank is full. Suction side shuts off when the tank isn't full.
 

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Liquidator is on order! Has anyone done any research on a UV blocking coating for their tank? From looking online it seems as if marine varnish has UV blockers/absorbers in it, would that work? My filter is in the sun for about half the day and I hate to build something to shield LQ. The other option is to adhere some kind of film to the tank, would anything you can't see through do the job. Everyone must have this problem to some extent so I thought someone smarter than me had probably solved it.
 
I bought a black "smoker cover" from home depot for about $5 and keep it covered with that. Works well.
Here is a pic
S5000939.jpg
 
Just a theory here but the very same UV blockers that are impregnated into the plastic container of the LQ probably block 90% of the UV.

Plastics quickly degrade when exposed to UV so outdoor plastics have to be treated with UV blockers and/or absorbers to prevent them from becoming chalky or brittle. I have little doubt the LQ is made from this kind of outdoor plastic.

So, my thinking is the biggest protection you could provide the LQ is from the heat. Perhaps some kind of styro foam "hat" protruding all around the top of the LQ could do both. That's the direction I'm headed for mine....mostly because I already have some 1/2" styrofoam and I'm very cheap! :lol: :lol:
 
I am chiming in on the LQ. I have had mine in for about 2 weeks now. All seems well, I have the 8 gal model.

I am running the pump 24/7 and adj between 3 and 3.5

I do have a question

i don't have the flow valves on. I shut the pump off and let some water drain down.

I tried to add 3-146 ounce bottles of bleach. I could get two in and eventually got the third on to flow in slowly into the funnel.

At one time the water was close to the top. It settled after a few minutes and was able to add the third bottle. It calculated the amount I added at 4 gallons approx. I would like to add about 6 gallons when i go on vacation cause you can trust your college kids to fill it while your gone. After it the water gets close to the top, how can I speed up adding more. Should I try to add while the pump is running. anyone want to share how they load up and how much do they add into the 8 gallon model and the proper steps. Sorry if i am slow but my expertise is fixing people's hearts.... :p

Mike
 
My three cents on my 4 gal LQ:

First, I connected the output hose to my pump's suction side drain plug hole. One less hole to drill in the plumbing and now have an extra adapter for the input side. Used the Watts PL-3025 quick connect, 1/4mip x 3/8 od, from your home box store.

Second, I was loosing my pump's prime for two reasons. I had to use the teflon paste on the flow meter's fittings and installed the check valve on the inlet as JohnT mentioned.

Third, To fill with the four gallons of bleach, I tie the inlet float up, this stops the LQ from filling. Then open the valve for max flow and pour in the bleach. It goes in pretty fast with the pump running. Then shut the valve off to let the bleach settle in the LQ before opening it back up for the desired flow.

BTW,my neighbor, with little kids, ask me how do I lock the lid to prevent the little ones from reaching in? :shock: Since my kids are alot older, this never crossed my mind. I will now put a stone paver on the lid when the little ones are around!
 
joenj said:
My three cents on my 4 gal LQ:

First, I connected the output hose to my pump's suction side drain plug hole. One less hole to drill in the plumbing and now have an extra adapter for the input side. Used the Watts PL-3025 quick connect, 1/4mip x 3/8 od, from your home box store.

Third, To fill with the four gallons of bleach, I tie the inlet float up, this stops the LQ from filling. Then open the valve for max flow and pour in the bleach. It goes in pretty fast with the pump running. Then shut the valve off to let the bleach settle in the LQ before opening it back up for the desired flow.

BTW,my neighbor, with little kids, ask me how do I lock the lid to prevent the little ones from reaching in? :shock: Since my kids are alot older, this never crossed my mind. I will now put a stone paver on the lid when the little ones are around!
Click to expand...

Using the drain plug is a great idea. Wow, I feel dumb not thinking of it.

I do the float valve trick too.

The idea of keeping kids out is a bit scary. I never thought about it. Mine is in a lockable pump room within the fenced area, so I'm not too concerned, but it is an issue. I tried to test the chlorine level in my water layer tonight, and it took 4 scoops of powder before it would stay pink, and I quickly figured out it was going to take too much reagent to measure it. Not something you want kids in.
 
duraleigh said:
Just a theory here but the very same UV blockers that are impregnated into the plastic container of the LQ probably block 90% of the UV.

Plastics quickly degrade when exposed to UV so outdoor plastics have to be treated with UV blockers and/or absorbers to prevent them from becoming chalky or brittle. I have little doubt the LQ is made from this kind of outdoor plastic.

So, my thinking is the biggest protection you could provide the LQ is from the heat. Perhaps some kind of styro foam "hat" protruding all around the top of the LQ could do both. That's the direction I'm headed for mine....mostly because I already have some 1/2" styrofoam and I'm very cheap! :lol: :lol:
Click to expand...

I expect the unit itself will tolerate UV pretty well. The tubing and fittings I wouldn't trust though.

My thinking on the heat is that if you have the pump running, the tank is going to stay at pool water temp no matter what you do. If the pump isn't running, shade is about the only thing that will help. It's going to heat up even if it's insulated if it sits very long without flow. My advice is make sure the pump is running while the tank is in the sun.
 
I spoke with the LQ rep before I bought, He actually told me I could use the drain plug. So it works!
Could I buy the adapter at Lowe's? What do I look for? I actually drilled the 3/8 hole and worked well but in case I would have to replumb I may consider. Actually another tip is the line form the LQ to the return I reused my hole I drilled for the Hayward CL-220 offline chlorinator and worked fine.
So if you had an old chlorinator like mine you could install with no drilling just use the old return hole and the pump drain hole!
 

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