Damaged Hayward Filter Element, + more filter questions

[pcmacd]

ITEM ONE:
I haven't had my Hayward Progrid DE6020 filter apart for several years; I have back issues and couldn't catch somebody to help me remove it. Last time I paid a pretty dependable pool tech to clean it, and he apparently din't clean or lube the output elbow o-ring, thus the removal issues.

So, the whole assembly was sticking at the o-ring. When I finally got it apart (I built a sky hook from some long 2x4s, a hinge, some allthread, and a coupling nut), I managed to crack the [ABS?] top collector manifold, and that took the half of the nipple off about 3 or 4 of the filter elements (ouch!) See photo.

The manifold inlets for the individual elements have fingers inside the orifice to align the elements properly. Some leakage must occur there by the very design. I am trying to decide if I can get by with the damaged elements and a new manifold.

Thoughts?

ITEM TWO:
The manual shows the individual elements to have a part number of DEX6000DA. Does this seem to be the right part? It is totally confusing out there on the web.

 

[JamesW]

It is usually best to replace broken grids, as they are not easily repaired.

The Top Collector Manifold with Flex Air Relief Assembly is part number DEX2400C

Part number DEX6000DA is the standard sized Filter Element for the DE6020

There is one Short Filter Element, part number DEX6000DS. It is short to avoid blocking the outlet pipe.

You should also get part number DEX2400Z5, which is the Outlet Elbow O-Ring.

It might be worthwhile to buy a whole grid set, as that might be less expensive per grid, and you would have spare grids. Most places will sell a generic 60 square foot grid set for less than the original manufacturer set.

The best lube to use on the O-ring is a silicone lube, such as Jack's 327, Dow 111, or Magic Lube II (Not regular Magic Lube, which is Teflon and becomes sticky over time).

http://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/Parts%2 ... o-Grid.pdf

http://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals ... DExx20.pdf

 

[carolina pool]

usually when they break off like that it indicates the plastic has become too brittle from aggresive chemistry or old age. It would be best to replace them all.

 

[pcmacd]

usually when they break off like that it indicates the plastic has become too brittle from aggresive chemistry or old age. It would be best to replace them all.

Tanks for all of your inputs.

mac

 

[pcmacd]

I ordered a DEX6000DC (new grid cluster assy.#) from SOS pools for about $264 plus reasonable shipping (found it fronted by sears by same firm for ~$317); this is the best price I found:

http://sospoolsupplies.com/hayward_...ter_dex6000dc/heater_parts/170_0_62_119/3891/

I nearly bought this FILBUR core for $109, less manifold, etc., but one of the customer comments noted the nipples were a might small, thus, leaky, for the Hayward manifolds:

http://www.webpoolsupply.com/60-sq-ft-de-grids-replacement-set-for-pentair-and-hayward-30-tall/

For future reference, does anybody have experience with FILBUR grids?

(Yeah, I know. Iben a bit slow getting this job done; major back issues. OTOH, it ain't going to float due to groundwater here!)

tx

mac

 

[jblizzle]

I bought a set of 8 grids for mine off Ebay (poolsupplyworld) for $132 in May 2011 ... they are working great. They are Unicel. I had a few broken like yours but all of them had internal breaks like they had been crushed. It was SO much easier to re-install the new stiff grids than trying to get the old broken ones to line up.

EDIT: looks like they have raised their price to $203 now ... but there are other sets available for under $150.

 

[carolina pool]

You can also damage the grids by overtightening them at assembly. They need to be just snug enough to not have any slop. A lot of people think they need to be real tight to prevent DE from moving through the joints but thats not the case.