Is there somewhere in pool school that explains safe use of muratic acid? If not, could you give me some safety tips.
Muratic acid safety
- Thread starter TomAtlanta
- Start date
Wear goggles, pour slowly near a return to avoid sloshing, and try not to breathe the fumes.
I'll also mention I recommend against storing opened bottles indoors, as the fumes can be corrosive.
I'll also mention I recommend against storing opened bottles indoors, as the fumes can be corrosive.
Always pour the acid into water and never the water into acid. I usually mix the acid into 2-3 gal of water before pouring it into the pool.
BTW, I don't wear goggles. I wear my full-coverage sunglasses and turn my head - and sometimes I cough. 
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,761
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
RobbieH said:
Good advice...especially regarding storage. Muriatic acid bottles are vented and the fumes will attack metal and other substances. I've found that storing the bottles in one of those Rubbermaid Storage benches by itself works well.
y_not
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I wear a face mask too, it's not a chemical one but a good quality 3M mask /w an exhale valve. Disposable type. It doesn't entirely block, but reduces and helps slow down the entry of the gasses to my nose & mouth. I'm really sensitive to it, it literally stings my throat and sinuses and burns my eyes. Just the vapors of course.
I also wear sunglasses.
Another trick, don't slosh or shake in any way, as little as possible, the MA jug before you open it. Otherwise you'll get a big ol' rush of vapors. Also when pouring, hold the back end of the jug, since it's heavy when full and pour slowly. Don't chug, or slosh, as this exacerbates the vapor problem.
I use a glass measuring cup for this. But my pool is much smaller than ya'lls.
Pouring into a bucket with water in it already, sounds like a great idea. Thus diluting it down before you pour it into the pool.
Good one! If I had a BIG pool I'd already be doing that.
I also wear sunglasses.
Another trick, don't slosh or shake in any way, as little as possible, the MA jug before you open it. Otherwise you'll get a big ol' rush of vapors. Also when pouring, hold the back end of the jug, since it's heavy when full and pour slowly. Don't chug, or slosh, as this exacerbates the vapor problem.
I use a glass measuring cup for this. But my pool is much smaller than ya'lls.
Pouring into a bucket with water in it already, sounds like a great idea. Thus diluting it down before you pour it into the pool.
Good one! If I had a BIG pool I'd already be doing that.
I'm not a proponent for using the bucket and handling it twice. Stand up wind and pour in.
bobodaclown said:
I agree. Lower the bottle into the water so you are only pouring a few inches and handing the acid once.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
I also prefer to handle the acid only once, so I don't pour the acid into a measuring cup and then into the pool, I just pour into the pool and guesstimate.
Seems like everyone agrees eye protection is mandatory; how does everyone feel about gloves? When I open a new bottle, I always wear disposable nitrile gloves because it takes some fiddling around to get that white paper thing off. But, if the bottle has already been opened, I don't bother with the gloves because I figure I could quickly dip my hands in the pool if necessary. What does everyone think?
Thanks,
Don C.
Seems like everyone agrees eye protection is mandatory; how does everyone feel about gloves? When I open a new bottle, I always wear disposable nitrile gloves because it takes some fiddling around to get that white paper thing off. But, if the bottle has already been opened, I don't bother with the gloves because I figure I could quickly dip my hands in the pool if necessary. What does everyone think?
Thanks,
Don C.
I don't wear gloves. I also guesstimate ... a few ounces here or there aren't going to make much difference in my pool!
y_not
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RobbieH said:
I'm pretty horrid at guesstimating such things. Not on an ounce level, probably because I'm such a precise person and don't trust my judgement. Doing, say 3/4 of a gallon, sure. But even then the neck makes it misleading. So I'd be inclined to measure an old jug to see where 1/2, 1/3 & maybe 1/4 are. As it's not going to be linear in relation to the height of the jug.
I don't bother /w gloves, not even for taking the cap off as mine have always come off really easy. But I could see if there's a fight, yeah, go for the gloves.
BTW, acid will completely dissolve nitrile/latex gloves in a fraction of a second. You have to use acid resistant material.
I have a pair of to the shoulder rubber coated canvas gloves for that. Don't ask. HAHA
This brings me to a quandary. I have seen many posts on here where the PB or an employee, added acid to the pool /w the pump running.
But caused some plaster etching/bleaching in the end.
I'm thinking this was because the PB "walked around the pool" while pouring. Which I'd think would be a no-no. Since you wouldn't want to pour it into the shallow end, as it'll hit the bottom before it has a chance to mix and dilute down.
So is pouring it in front of an active return, in the deep end at full strength safe enough? Or do you really "HAVE TO" brush right away?
If you poured VERY slowly in front of a return flow and aimed well, then you might thoroughly mix the acid with the water, but generally speaking it's a good idea to brush the pool surfaces in the area where you added the acid. At one point, I got lazy about brushing after acid addition in my own pool and I can see some pitting of plaster in the general area where I added the acid.
y_not said:
Good point. I googled it and found this http://amo-csd.lbl.gov/downloads/Chemical Resistance of Gloves.pdf where it says nitrile is okay for "incidental" contact with hydrochloric acid but neoprene or butyl rubber would be preferred for longer term contact. Since I need some dexterity to get that white paper thing off I think I'll stick with nitrile gloves, but I have wondered about that.
Thanks,
Don C.
I wear goggles and do like others have suggested - "float" the bottle so the mouth is close to (but always above) the water and slowly estimate the goal amount. I always be sure I am able to fully concentrate on the task, including closing it back up and properly storing it. No multi-tasking on this one. And leave adequate (1/2 hour??) time between chlorine and acid additions and, as others have said, never store them near each other. Oh yeah, don't get lazy on the goggles.
y_not
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chem geek said:
OUCH! I bet that "hurts" seeing that.
Isn't the acid strong enough that by the time you finish pouring, then grab the brush and brush it. That it has already had a chance to sit on the bottom and do damage?
Does this apply to vinyl liner pools as well?
y_not
0
jjslinger said:
By "incidental" I presume they mean an occasional splash won't melt holes in your hand?
IE. You don't wanna dip your nitrile clothed hand into the acid. YIKES!!
y_not said:By "incidental" I presume they mean an occasional splash won't melt holes in your hand?
IE. You don't wanna dip your nitrile clothed hand into the acid. YIKES!!
I've now looked over several websites that discuss the matter, and there is some spread of suggestions. Most say nitrile gloves are okay for "incidental" contact to HCL, but some go into detail about how thick the gloves need to be. Some say to "double up" the gloves if they are the thin disposable kind.
Maybe a TFP expert could chime in here? I certainly want to handle my muriatic acid in a safe manner. My main area of concern is removing that white seal thing that's under the cap on the bottle. On some brands of acid, it comes of easily, but on other brands it's on there pretty good.
Thx,
Don
y_not said:
I only have returns at my shallow end. I've never brushed after an addition. My plaster is already in need of redo, but I have not seen any additional problems due to adding acid. I will say I'm not too concerned right now since I need to replaster soon. We had the money saved up for it, but my 1957 A/C unit failed this summer and I had to put a whole new system in.
