BBQ Grill Island build

sammm

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LifeTime Supporter
May 10, 2007
257
F-V, NC
Hi all...I'm planning the build of my 'L' shaped BBQ island. I plan to use steel studs for the frame, and have been looking for info on best practices/tips/techniques when using them. Has anyone come across any info like that?

It seems the 2.5" studs are recommended, and hardiboard is OK to use as a skin. I do plan to cover the outside of it with a stone veneer of some sort.

I'll keep this thread updated as my project progresses....thanks all! :cheers:
 
Here's the initial layout I'm thinking of. The tiled floor part is actually part of a covered patio, so the fridge will be out of the weather. The 'legs' of the L are approx. 5' long and 30" wide.
 

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sammm said:
Hi all...I'm planning the build of my 'L' shaped BBQ island. I plan to use steel studs for the frame, and have been looking for info on best practices/tips/techniques when using them. Has anyone come across any info like that?

It seems the 2.5" studs are recommended, and hardiboard is OK to use as a skin. I do plan to cover the outside of it with a stone veneer of some sort.

I'll keep this thread updated as my project progresses....thanks all! :cheers:
Sam,

What I mostly did was go back to the beginning of the Outdoor Kitchens board on TroubleFreePool and read through all the threads and studied the pictures posted by others documenting their builds. I made my own plans (sketches) based on what I learned plus working around the equipment I wanted to install in the available space. I picked up most the of the techniques for working with the metal studs and hardie-backer that way. I bought a DVD on building outdoors kitchens from The Barbecue Coach but it was not very useful for a full-on DIY project. It was mostly addressing the products he sells and how to put the modular units he builds together. I also used YouTube and DIY websites to get some tips on doing the tile and stucco. There are some YouTube videos documenting some of the techniques for working with metal studs as well. If you have any questions post 'em up on the board.

There is also more info on this board: http://www.bbqsource-forums.com
 
Melt In The Sun said:
That doesn't look like much space between the wall on the right side of the photo and the bar...

What are your plans for countertop?

The island will be right up against the house (brick wall) on that side with no room in between. I'm leaning towards granite counters, but am open to suggestions.
 
sammm said:
Melt In The Sun said:
That doesn't look like much space between the wall on the right side of the photo and the bar...

What are your plans for countertop?

The island will be right up against the house (brick wall) on that side with no room in between. I'm leaning towards granite counters, but am open to suggestions.

I think what MITS was saying, is that the walkway on the right side of your drawing, between the right leg of the L and the corner of that outer wall would be awfully narrow. I think so too. In fact, I saw the same thing before I even saw his post.
I would move the bar forward, all the way to the edge of the concrete patio, right where the planting bed starts. This will give you more room between the L leg and that corner wall.

As it is, it looks like one person could barely fit through there. Being that'll be the only way I presume between the inside of the house and the backyard, it's going to see a lot of foot traffic.
If you have to carry platters out to guests and what not, that's going to be pretty difficult to get through there while carrying something.

For counter tops.
I would do Corian, as it can be resurfaced pretty easily. Granite and marble can't, so any cut marks from food prep on the surface are permanent. People always seem to think they can cut on countertops, especially the latter two types. It dulls your blade edge, not to mention kills the surface.
Another thought would be, pardon my lack of "name" for it, those artificial poured concrete counter tops with an innumerable number of finishes that can be applied to them.
You can do these yourself, I know a few DIYers that have done it.
I believe they can be resurfaced as well. Ground down, polished, finished then re-glazed. Just like the Corian, except for one extra step.
 
y_not said:
That doesn't look like much space between the wall on the right side of the photo and the bar...

I see what y'all are talking about now. That's a pillar in the middle of the covered patio. (I've attached another picture with a different perspective.) You can see the blue-tape outline to the left of the patio.

As is it now, that opening is around 25" wide or so. We have debated about blocking that pass-thru entirely, but I don't want to have to walk around to the other side of the patio (around the furniture) to get to the pool from the grill.

That outer edge of the island will have a raised bar ledge as well.
 

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Ok I see. From your first photo it looks like you can scoot the whole thing out maybe another foot from the pillar...I would still probably do that.

For counters, consider tile as well! Not difficult, and lots to choose from.
 
WoW! Yes, this makes sooo much more sense now. :)
Indeed that'd be a drag to have to traverse all that patio furniture just to get to the pool.
I agree with MITS, move the island out as far as you can from that pillar to give yourself maximum walkway space.
Looks good otherwise, I like the positioning of it.

Silly question, not related to the thread but the forum. Does your pool water look green or is it me?
Even against the shallow white steps it looks pretty green. Well clear green.
Funky light?
 

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y_not said:
Does your pool water look green or is it me?
Even against the shallow white steps it looks pretty green. Well clear green.
Funky light?

Funky, early morning light....the pool is clear (thanks to BBB! :goodjob: )

Thanks for the comments everyone...keep them coming and I'll show my progress.
 
Back from the dead!

Now that my pre-req projects are done (and it's getting warm), I'm ready to start my build.

My first question is can I use the metal studs sold at the big box stores? It looks like they are 24 gauge, and what I've read recommends at least 20 gauge studs.

I do plan to cover it with backer board, and then put a stone veneer over it. If I do need 20 gauge, where do I source them from?
 
sammm said:
Back from the dead!

Now that my pre-req projects are done (and it's getting warm), I'm ready to start my build.

My first question is can I use the metal studs sold at the big box stores? It looks like they are 24 gauge, and what I've read recommends at least 20 gauge studs.

I do plan to cover it with backer board, and then put a stone veneer over it. If I do need 20 gauge, where do I source them from?

I've seen plenty of builds with the 24 gauge studs, so you should be alright with those. I'm also having the same problem as you, only being able to find the 24 gauge studs at Home Depot. Here in CA, they just haven't taken off that much, so nobody carries them. If I had my choice, I would build most of my island with 20 gauge 2 x 3 studs, so I could gain the extra two inches inside the cabinet.
 
Thanks for the info everyone. I went with the big box metal studs, and will reinforce the areas as needed.

The counter tops will be at 36", and the bar ledge will be at 44".
 

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Build looks great so far!!!

Did you consider using Trex (or cheaper equivalent) for your base, instead of using the pressure treated lumber? The composite type Trex will have no rotting issues if water ever gets to it.

Also, I helped a buddy move yesterday and we happened to stop at Home Depot about 35 miles from my local store. They had a bigger selection of the studs and also carried the 20ga. Might try calling around or speaking to the order desk to see if any other store has them near you. I'll probably end up getting the 20ga 2 x 4 if I can't find the 20ga 2x3's that I wanted to use.

Keep up the good work... I'll probably start my project within the next month.
 
Killer95Stang said:
Build looks great so far!!!

Did you consider using Trex (or cheaper equivalent) for your base, instead of using the pressure treated lumber? The composite type Trex will have no rotting issues if water ever gets to it.
I agree with Killer95stang. Trex is the way to go for baseboards.
 

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